motorrad2

Problem solved. At connector F109, where the diode plugs in, there are actually TWO G/W wired into that connector. Mine had one G/W and one RL. The second G/W wire had broken off down inside the connector, and the wire was just a little stub coming out of the back of the electrical-taped bundle. Splice repair and it started right up. Thank you all for your help!!

The diode shown as connector F109. If it was faulty and stopped flow in both directions, that would explain no voltage to the ignition relay/ECU power terminals. Diode test result: infinity in one direction, .544 ohms in the opposite. Looking for specs on that diode. Question: where does the power come from to feed the ignition relay? I see ECU terminal 28, GW, is a "Self-shutoff signal". I have no voltage at terminal 28, yet it appears to be the "power-in" to the ignition relay. No voltage at the ignition relay means no power to 29, 41, and 49: power terminals for the ECU.

Naru, I wish it were so simple. Fuse out, power on one side. Fuse in, power on both. Fuses are fine!

Naru, power on just one side of fuse 12. Yes, I've considered exactly what you proposed to get power to G/W at the relay. I've had it for today, I'll try that tomorrow morning.

Thanks maozebong, on page 46 of section 2-7 I began following the tree at step "1": Resistance of terminals 30,42,44, and 51 are between 1.3 and 1.6 ohms. The resistances are all OK, according to the FSM. Voltage at terminal 29, 41, and 49 is zero. Voltage at 27 is 12.57V. FSM says there should be 10V minimum at all four!!! Question on terminal 49: This RL wire runs from ECU pin 49 to the ignition relay RL wire. There is no voltage at the ECU terminal (with the connector disconnected from the ECU), but there is voltage at the ignition relay RL wire with the connector connected to the ECU. So, power must run FROM ECU pin 49 THROUGH terminal 49 TO the ignition relay. Why then does the FSM have us test terminal 49? Note that with the ECU terminals all plugged into the ECU, there is 12V+ voltage at the ignition terminal R, RL, and B/W. At W, voltage is -.33 V. If voltage is <10V, next step in the FSM tree directs to check "battery terminals, fuse, ignition relay and ignition switch". If OK, next step is to "repair harness" Battery terminals: Good. Fuses: 5,11,12,20 fuses are good (continuity), voltage present at all. Ignition relay: Tested by applying 12V to G/W, B to ground. Continuity then measured across B-B/W and R-RL. Ignition switch: Voltage gets to fuse 11 in the "ON" position. Measured continuity between the B/W wire and, in the ACC position: Black/Blue, in the ON position: Black/Blue and Black, and in the START position: Black/Red, Black, and Black/Yellow.

OK, have power to coil. Did nothing I'm aware of to get it there except replace the coil. Still no spark. I do have power to pin 27 (ign switch OFF). There is no continuity between 27 and 29 (with ign switch ON). These two should be switched at the ign. relay. I have no power to the ignition relay, to either the G/W or B terminals. The R/Bl, R, and B/W have voltage, the W does not. Wires in connector to ign. relay: R: always on from fusible link R/Bl: to pin 49 on ECU B/W: Power from fuse 5 W: to pin 41 and 29 on ECU I need power to that ignition relay!

Naru, I saw you in another posting for a no-spark condition on a Loyale, and that thread has been most helpful. I finally found a diagram for the system, which has been helpful as well in understanding the path undertaken by current as it flows from the battery to the coil. Battery --> Fusible link (1.25) --> ignition switch --> Fuse 11 --> B/W wire to 3-pin connector --> B/W wire to 7-pin connector -->B/W wire to the coil So, next step for me is to test continuity along that path. Questions: "The ignition relay powers the ECU.": Which ECU pin is for power-in? Is that 27? "There should be voltage on the relay coil w/the key on.": What's the relay coil? Do you mean ignition relay (it is labeled as such, "ignition relay", on the diagram)? I'm not certain of the current path to the ignition relay yet. The coil situation I have, I measured >3 ohms resistance on the primary circuit, what are the consequences of using a higher-than-specified resistance coil? I'm picking up a new one today from NAPA, but even that one specified no resistance value, although it is listed for use on the car. The heat buildup at the high-tension connection is concerning.

Just pulled the coil, which is a new (< 2 year old) Mallory 29219. Metal-crimp connector on coil to distributor high-tension wire looks fried, as if burnt, is brittle, and broken. Primary resistance is 2.1 ohms, secondary 10.1K ohms. Primary resistance is higher than stock by about an ohm.

What is the purpose of the ignition relay, and why do you put the word "ignition" in quotes? Do you believe it misnamed? When should there be power to the relay's "switching" pin circuits, which then closes the circuits for the two "switched" circuits? Those two circuits then go off into the ECU? Shouldn't there be voltage to the ignition relay when the ignition switch is in the "ON" position? I've removed the ignition switch, and found continuity between the B/W wire and: ACC position: Black/Blue ON position: Black/Blue and Black START position: Black/Red, Black, and Black/Yellow I don't believe the switch is bad either.

Stopped at a convenience store the other day, came back out and no start. Cranks over fine, just has no spark. Checked (all w/ key in the "ON" position): No spark from coil while cranking. No power to coil. Voltage to accessories, fuel pump, etc. Fusible links good, voltage is present. Fuses (5 and 11 too!), all ok, voltage is present. Distributor: Rotor spins, is tight to distributor shaft. Ignition relay: Removed and tested, switches circuits correctly. Ignition relay connector: Voltage across each of the two "switched" circuits Ignition relay connector: NO VOLTAGE TO THE RELAY! My bet is that power is not getting through the ignition switch to the ignition relay.

Even using the old compressed bumpers left no room for the nut. This problem was found before even fitting the spring over the shock, this problem is all about not having the correct length to accomodate necessary hardware at the top of the shock. Cutting the KYB rubber bumpers down may have solved the problem, but the shock was still going to be shorter than stock. Too bad, because I truly feel the KYB shocks are "best". The rebound and compression damping of the KYB is noticeably greater, at least when brand-new. Gabriel G51181 with Moog CC228 spring gave me a much better handling and load-bearing car when compared to the stock shocks and, due to the stiffer spring, about an inch more height. Stock-spec struts with NAPA 277-3452 springs up front added about the same and the car looks awesome. Not low and boring, not jacked up and cv-joint destroying, just a nice, aggressive, balanced stance.

I just received a set of KYB 341065s in the mail. They are shorter overall by about an inch, but worse yet, the portion above the "stop" on the chrome shaft is shorter too, which means the necessary bumpers/washers/spring holder leave no thread room for the nut!!!!! If you have a 1993 Subaru Loyale wagon with 4wd....DON'T BUY THE KYB 341065.... I wish I could tell you which shock to buy, but I have yet to find a direct aftermarket replacement for the stock rear shock absorber.

Finding coil springs for a Loyale 4wd wagon has been a challenge. I have repeatedly gone back to the "BumbleBeast" thread, but I'm not looking for 2" lift. I wanted a firmer ride for sportier handling and a slight ride height increase for looks, I don't want to stress my CV joints, and I want to know spring rates!! So I purchased a set of NAPA coils springs for a 2004 Camry. Spring rate went from 146 stock (who knows what they are 21 years later) to 162. Spring ends are flat and tangential, not exactly like stock, but they fit up just fine. ID is almost equivalent, length is about .5" longer, wire diameter is thicker. I just installed sealed front wheel bearings because greasing the inner sets are a pain. Replaced valve cover gaskets. New drilled and slotted black-zinc brake discs with ceramic pads, on their way to me right now. Rear springs and shocks are next. The NAPA salesman was oh-so-kind to give me a coil spring catalog, and I found a Monroe fitment catalog online in pdf format. I'll post a follow-up to the rear setup. Would like to have a set of white spoke wheels to powder-coat and mount with new tires that will be necessary this summer. I have two 1980-84 types and two 1985-1989 types, would like to find two more of the later style. *************************************************************** Update: ordered a pair of KYB GR-2 ( p/n 341065) shocks for the rear. Look great, DON'T FIT!!! They are about an inch shorter than the old shocks, and no way can I get the assorted bumpers,washers,frame mount, and spring seat on the piston shaft and still spin the nut. The old shocks from the car have only a "733331" stamp, no manufacturer's name, but I found a Gabriel catalog which cross-references a 733331 MFG number to a Gabriel Part Number....... G51183. I just ordered a set for $74 from my local O'Reilly's and will have them tomorrow morning. Spread the news!!!!!! Gabriel G51183 !!!!! Direct-fit replacement shock for the 4WD Loyale wagon !!!! Moog CC248 coil springs will be mounted in the rear, purchased off of ebay for $53. Decided to rebuild the front brake calipers, but found brand-new calipers from R1 Concepts for $120 (set of right/left), so I bought them!