kleone

I have asked three sellers on ebay aus some days ago, havent recieved an answer from anyone yet and by now i doubt i will unfortunately. Im gonna clean and lube the old ones, and keep myself updated on ebay US and EUR

I have a follow->up question for everyone that cares to answer do you know if your local subaru dealer are out of cv shafts to the pickup? (brat/brumby/mv) the norwegian importer is out and says they are no longer available. all the aftermarket part dealers are out, including norwegian as well as english and german speaking dealers in europe.. Australian ebay has plenty, but refuses to post abroad for some reason.. Ebay US have some chinese manufactured to choose from but they differ in length

Ive been searching around the forum for any info but i cant find anything so here i go.. Engaging the clutch pedal is like stepping on a piece of cloth on my 92 pickup. it releases instantly when lifting the pedal from the floor. if i release very very slowly i can feel wobbling, and some times this is accompanied by a screeching sound. Do i need a new clutch cylinder? a new clutch? a new gear box (are the 4speed box interchangeable with any 5speed box ea81/ea82 by the way?)? Or can I adjust something an be happy? Havent had a car where the clutch has been like this before, only had a clutch slip when it became weary once... Thanks for any advice

will give this a go before i swap for new (if i can fin one)

Thanks for all the infos. if only spares were as plentiful as all the advice

Thanks alot

Ok thanks Straight forward operation or full of strange quirks? Another question is that my pickup is a 92 mod, but when searching for parts most dealers dont list the pickup (brat) later than 87 Are the parts the same?

Hi My 92 pickup has clicking sounds when turning right. Is it hard to swap the cv joint or should I swap for a new complete drive shaft ? Cant seem to find any write ups on it...

Thanks alot. So the bolts are enough to hold the wheels... dont wanna lose my wheels

Thanks, so the plastic is removable and rims is a fit

Ok so the lip doesnt matter, only the bolts/nuts? Also meaning that the plastic spacer thingy doesnt matter?

Sorry for bringing up another tyre question, I can see there has been numerous of them, but I cant find the answer.. I bought these from a pickup owner and I need to know if they fit wagon DLs as well. My wagon is stock with drums on the rear axel. They seem to fit, but the hub caps doesnt fit when the wheel is mounted. And the white plastic ring/spacer/something is really brittle and doesnt look trustworthy. What happens if/when they brake? Why wasnt these rims made in the same specs as my old plain steel rims (as in not needing a plastic spacer to fit the drum -lip)? Thanks for any advice

Result: Both rear cylinders swapped with new ones, as they were both leaking. Had to get new shoes as well, cos brake fluid was absorbed into the shoes, so there were no grip

Numbchux- yes I thought of the possibility, but isnt it strange that both would seize at the same time? How can I test its functionability? DaveT- I guess they must be automatic. Explaining the looks of them in my poor english these brackets went across the drum between the two shoes, having a pivoting piece at the one end of each bracket, with a spring mechanism to make them stretch further and longer between the shoes as they get worn. Leaving the difference to the other kind of adjustment brackets spoken of to have the possibility to be adjusted from the outside of the drum manually I will do the brake in reverse procedure and report. If it doesnt bare fruits Ill try swapping the cylinders for new ones

Yeah sorry for being unclear. The car is a 86 DL wagon. Parking brakes are on the front. When I say "like non-existant" I mean theyre almost nonfunctional. The demonstrated on a brake test roller in the garage, and braking made close to no impact. So theyre not effectively operating. And I cant see why as I put new shoes on last year only. The drums are worn but not at all worn out.

This sounds very similiar to my experience last year, after alot of trialing and searching it turned out to be the bearing Also when pulling and shaking the wheel to feel for looseness, it seemed tight...but wasnt

Hi oldgens I was at the MOT today, and besides broken light bulbs and a hole in the exhaust, the only serious fault found on the car was that my rear brakes are almost non-existant. I have old drums but new shoes. Have adjusted the shoe adjuster thing so I just could get the drums on again. The adjustment brackets are not the kind I see spoken of here in the forum, that can be tightened from the out side, they have to be adjusted before assembling the drums. The pedal feels just as it should, so I cant understand whats the problem, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Fuel pump swapped, turns out it was faulty but functional enough to deliver some spurts accidentaly when I controlled it.. Thanks for all help!

Started testing now, now there was no fuel coming out of the fuel line.....

Alright will do. And check the solenoid on the carb. Thanks Again as if in troublesome pump, should there be a clean stream of fuel out of the pipe or pulses when cranking?

Thanks alot Is there a possibility that the pump is working -as in pumping out some fuel, but not working as it should - as in pumping the right amount of fuel at the right pressure? With a voltmetre i see voltage in the lead that supplies the pump, when turning the key to start. This rules out electrical errors, am I right? As far as I can see: the fuel lines are in order as said above, electricity is reaching the pump, but still the engine wont start. It will start on the other hand, when I pour gasoline directly down the carb. Runs just like it should for some seconds before dying again. Does that ruel out carb errors? Thanks for any help

Hello everyone My 86 1,8 wagon stopped a couple of days ago. It was sudden like fuel was cut off. Fuel line from pump to carburettor is in order. The little square external pump (are there any more?) is working, and electricity is reaching the pump. -But I was wondering, is the pump ment to run while the engine is running, or is it ment to run only when key is turned to start? Thanks for any answers!