redskin
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Posts posted by redskin
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glad to hear your ok, its a bummer for sure, but appears repairable from the photo. With so many of these in wrecking yards parts are reasonably priced, l have in the past cut and shut new fronts on to these, yes its a bit of work but you only replace the bent side and front, then check the lot for square, (measure diag across engine bay from corner to corner on both sides), this can be done if the A frame is undamaged on this side otherwise junk it, its not worth the trouble.
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again no, last ones used up earlier panels and these were steel also, no galvanising was ever done by the factory on these panels. Your dad must be thinking about something else.
ive havnt checked out an 91 brumby. to see. my new 1 is an 1990dad thinks hes got mixed up with them getting galvenised or something maybe? we assembled alot of subarus here and they didnt put in rust proofing dip tank till 18 months b4 it closed up
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not in Aus that l'm aware of. all were pressed steel panels.
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ok thanks Mike but l am moving overseas in the next month for business purposes and may possibly sell my beast, (not the way l'd like it), as unsure if l will be returning here again so please when the time comes, shoot me a pm please and l will advise you of my intensions, many thanks.
Good luck with your studies.
Pete.
No, you're still all set. I'm just keeping the door open to future bolt patterns that people may want.-Mike
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Does that mean the pm you sent me no longer applies, l'm confused.
Please get in touch so l know. :-\
Its not too late for any bolt pattern. I'll put that down as a requiest if there is enough demand I can make that adaptor as well. First things first let me get the CNC program in order and the first adaptors made, but I will contact you when I am available to make that size as well.-Mike
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Looks like serious fun.
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:lol: , they do what now? :lol: Everyone's pretty cool and helpful here.And I got basicly booted from NASIOC for posting a pick of my wagon with an old semi exhaust stack under it with the caption "just say no to fartcans" they took offense. I was just kidding.
So this is my understanding home now.
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You know, l'm really impressed with most of these answers and agree completely, people on this board have sent me parts to Australia for basically nothing, answered my questions without reservations and generally tried to help whenever they can. l've made mistakes but been corrected with knowledgable answers backed up by fact.
l can't believe this business about JD being a little surly, he's never flamed me.....
..... what the hell, l could swear l just got hit with a target. -
Serious question guys,
Why do you like USMB and why do you prefere this site to any other? What keeps you coming back other than your love for old Subarus.
l personally, spend very little time anywhere else, l read and sometimes post, the RS Lib club, reading but rarely posting, would be second, as l hope to one day get one so want to learn all l can, the rest l pass through rarely.
The reason l come back is the comments, a little humour is understood and tolerated, you can sometimes be wrong and not attacked and genuine knowledgable help is at hand from multiple directions.
Any Thoughts?
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That's what l'm thinking GD.
Actually that looks like galvanic corrosion - which can happen if not enough/old coolant is run for WAY too long. Coolant contains zinc which functions as the sacrficial anode. If too much water is used in the coolant, or the coolant isn't changed about ever 2 to 4 years (even if it tests good in a hygrometer), then insufficient zinc will allow corrosion of that type to take place. The result is that the aluminium itself becomes the anode and aluminium ions are stripped from the heads or block from the inside of the coolant passages. Eventually this can eat all the way through. Of course this is most often seen in aluminium heads attached to cast iron blocks, but there is sufficient iron in the bolts, and things like the stock heater core hose couplers to cause this in an EA81 over time.Of course the picture is small, and there could be some other cause - you'll have to disect the head to know for sure. But that's my gut feeling on your leak. Crack's just don't look like that - they look like cracks - not huge gaping holes with smooth surfaces like that appears to exhibit.
If that's the case, then the whole engine is suspect. Toss it.
GD
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No problem and sorry for butting in, but l've dismantled and reassembled my share, (a few more than 1), of 81's for restoration and paint and am very familiar with this set up having always stripped them out to do the work.
we call this a coupe dash here as it differs from the Brumby or Brat, as you guys know it but is essentially the same system. the fresh air slide on Brumby's is located on our dash pads.
Thanks for not taking offence, it's all about helping. cheers.
Ohh... I thought the control next to the vent was there to supply fresh air to your face while you had the heater on to stop you falling asleep... Sorry
I'll take some more pics tomorrow and I have a manual lying around somewhere. I'll try and scan the right pages and post them up.
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l've not seen this before, my eyes are not great, is this corrosion damage or blown out?
very unusual. :-\
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The slide control on the ones in Oz, just changes whether the air goes to the front screen, your face or the floor... Chrome gauge outline things??? not sure but we dont have that in Oz and from the pic on this thread it looks like the reflection off the plastic face piece.
Been meaning to revisit this thread.
Sorry to but in, l think you'll find the fresh air slide is the one over the vent, it's purpose is to open 2 vents, 1 either side and covered by your wiper gear, hence the grill under the windscreen,to allow fresh air into your car
-the two buttons pictured are connected through the heater panel and decide whether you get fresh air or run recycled air through your heating system.
That's why you don't get the choice on your heater slide.
l hope this clears the matter up. Probably should have elaborated in my first post, sorry.
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Yes most of our cars have these buttons, there for air vents, 1 opens up fresh air, the other for recirclatory air.
What is this part between the fan speed knob and the temperature knob? Was this a JDM only feature or did our friends in Europe and Australia/New Zealand get this stuff also? I see it in the ads for JDM EA81 RXs and SRXs, but the pictures are too small and grainy to see what they are.
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l have 2 types of manifold, one with this bung, one without.
lf your not already doing so a high flow thermostat is a must have if your serious about temp control. Down here it gets pretty hot so l run a 170deg type, and 2 thermo fans, a 12 inch constantly and the 2nd, (the one Subaru fitted), through a relay to a switch. This one l only ever really turn on in traffic or 40deg days and keeps operating temps standard and stable, my temp needles don't move past where there meant to be. l have assumed you are also running a water cooled turbo. cheers.
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Dead right, the thermostat housing is the best place, l did mine nearly 2 years ago but had to make an adapter plug, as most are a/f. if your thermostat housing is the type with the bung at the front, drill and tap this, l've done this also and it works fine, my Brat runs 2 temp guages, the original and an aftermarket guage to keep it honest, but again, make real sure it's away from the operation area of the thermostat. l must say though, my standard temp guage is pretty accurate and pretty much mirrors the new one. l can post pics if you like.
I wouldn't "splice", (tee) into the original sensor location, as it would put both the stock and the new one out of the flow of coolant.I have had good luck on some other makes of drill/tapping into the T-stat housing. You have to pay attention to the length of the sensors probe to make sure it doesn't interfer with the T-stat operation.
I know of people that have cut the upper radiator hose and put in a short section of tube with proper threaded port for the sender.
Don't know if it would be the best idea, but there's the drain plug on the bottom of the head. One could possibly re-tap those threads for the sensor. (Don't think that would be possible on a Turbo motor though, I don't have a Turbo engine here, but believe that's where the coolant return line attaches).
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Thanks, learn something new everyday and why l put it as a question.
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l'm no expert on 82t's having never owned one but shouldn't there be injector bosses visible like an 81t?
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What kind of boost pressures are people running on their cars?
l run a water cooled 82 turbo on mine and it boosts to 8-9lbs consistently.
Other mods l found worthwhile was fitting a large volume waic, custom up pipe and headers and flicking the clutch fan for 2 thermos. l also run a non standard ecu so have more tuning options and high output electrics.
These mods can be performed by most people cheaply using second hand parts and are, 'external mods'' so can be done by almost anybody that can hold a spanner.
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An official thank you to Turbone.
Thanks Rob, l fitted the injectors you sent me yesterday after rebuilding them to replace the skyline brown tops l had been running for the past 18 months and
they sorted it. Runs like it should now, for starters, no Pinging, engine temp has dropped to an acceptable level, smooth acceleration throughout the gears and most important of all, no petrol leaks.l did manage to tune it on a dyno and upon reading the results found horsepower had jumped from 100, (approx) to 120+.
with a little extra help, (intercooler, bigger turbo, etc.).Again thanks for your help.
Pete.
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it sounds as though you to have looked into this and come up with similar conclusions to me. Yes, the Cam and heads are restrictive but have potential and at a guess l'd say your right about the radiator, mine runs in a constant range of 160-180F on the standard n/a fan set-up and l'd be happier with a little less so am about to replace these with a 12" and 10" thermo, but l am running a new radiator and waic, a must if you want to ring it's neck for more power.
l have seriously considered a complete Sti conversion but decided to put it off for now as l am in the process of moving to another state, next year though, Hmmm.
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Oh, something else to factor in, If you are planning on increasing power, plan on adding an oil cooler - I have trouble with mine and its almost completely stock. Im having to run horribly expensive synthetic 10w60 to keep hot pressure up to a resonable level.
Thanks for the info Ross, l had planned on running an oil cooler and l've read Mazda RX-7 ones will do the trick.
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ok, after some thought given to your replies on these liners, (thanks guy's), l have decided to use the other set of heads l have as l did mention, the liners will be a nightmare to remove, to start with the seams are welded and will be very difficult to crack, secondly, the valve seats appear to splay out over the edge of the tins to trap them in position, third, extra casting around bottom of port for spacing the tin from the walls may also continue within the port to keep the tin spaced evenly throughout it, only removal of the tin will tell you this, forth, l would need to replace guides, (nothing wrong with them), With all this in mind, why would you bother, l have a good set running now l can use and again as mentioned, it's a very big job.
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if the exhaust liners are meant to be red hot during operation, and you are planning on running more than standard boost (and thus more heat in the exhaust) wouldn't you run the risk of those liners falling apart? I mean, they are getting a lot hotter then they are meant to get. (is this proper english? it seems strange but I don't know why?)
l doubt this would happen as they are quite thick but l s'pose anythings possible.
l hadn't planned on going over 10lb of boost, standard is about 7lb, with the EA-82 unit about 9lb. l have often read on this forum if you want the motor to stay together it's not a good idea to go over 10lb on these motors so l'm happy with that, the performance increases l'm looking for will mostly come from the Cam, & heads.
Rear brake Conv., while there should I?....
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I'll second that, the least you can do and only sensible.