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redskin

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Posts posted by redskin

  1. The final generation of heads that were manufactured for the late model Nissan 280ZXs in 1981-83 had steel liners cast into the exhaust ports that look just like those. This was the last generation of L-series six cylinder motors, there were about ten different head permutations from 69-83. I could dig up pictures if you want, or you could take me at my word. Some people go to the effort to remove them; but it is apparently more difficult than simply dropping the valves on those heads. Most don't think twice about simply leaving them alone.

     

    They are designed to get red hot and ignite any unburnt fuel in the exhaust gasses; it is an emissions-type thing, although I have never (in my minimal experience) heard of it on a subaru head. Flow testing, actual dyno charts, and butt dyno experiences seem to say that having these liners in the ports is no detriment to flow characteristics (ie, performance) whatsoever.

     

    Thanks for the info and on closer inspection, with my glasses on, :rolleyes: , l see that the shells are welded along the seams of this shielding so your right, dropping the guides is only one bit of removal, best left alone l think as trying to get them out could turn out to be a nightmare.

  2. Popped the Exhaust valves and as l thought, trapped by the valve guides although once these are out the shells should fall out. each port has 2 shells split thruogh the centre, 4 in all.

    What does differ from standard is the 2 little pieces of extra casting around the exhaust port to space the tin away from the port wall, ( effective heat shields), these will be removed if the tin goes when l port them.

     

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    img_0117.jpg

     

    port.jpg

     

    port1.jpg

  3. My EA81T coupe has an EA82T turbo (same boost but watercoolable) with a WRX downpipe and 2.5" nonmufflered exhaust and it's really smooth. I could have sourced a bigger turbo but I am not keeping this car as a permanent project, and parts are hard enough to find for EA81Ts that I didn't want to steepen the maintenance curve.... the open exhaust is really nice, though, it feels like a whole different car even with the craptacular 3speed auto.

    I of course have the airbox chopped out too :burnout:

    I personally would improve the exhaust (as I've done) and then install a 5-speed in place of the slushomatic, and then work on the rear brakes and add a rear sway bar before I'd worry about putting in a bigger turbo.. but that's me :P

     

    Thanks,

    to clarify, the current setup already includes, waic, open exhaust, 2.5" dump through to 3" muffler behind the wheels, EA-82T turbocharger, no airbox, 3" pipe to turbo filter, the new set up includes a 5 speed RX box l have in the shed. Adjustable camber rods, EA-82 control arms and stabiliser, rear brakes are discs.

  4. Could you post a pic of this? Not quite sure what you mean, but I don't remember anything like this on either of the sets of ea81t heads i have... Regarding the porting, an important area is the join between the manifold and heads - there is a large difference in size between them, and the hole in the gasket is far too small. This was the only area I modified on mine.

     

    Yes l can Ross, l'm positive my running engine does not have these either, l got a bit of a surprise when l looked into the ports but l assume without removal of the valves yet these heatshields are probably held in by the guides, will drop a valve tomorrow, check and post a photo.

    Thanks for the suggestion on the inlet ports, l followed your rebuild recently, did you stay with the stock cam?

  5. l have had a spare EA-81T motor laying around the shed for near a couple of years now and recently decided, better do something with it so l have stripped it down for rebuilding, (this was uneventful), and would like a little help with some answers please.

    My questions are,

    1. After pulling the heads and looking in the Exhaust ports l see what looks like tin heatshields inside the exhaust port, l can't remember my other motor having these, it's obvious why they are there but is it normal and as l planned to port the heads, are these easy to remove and should l.

    2. Without going crazy, can anybody recommend a suitable grind for the Camshaft. l want to extract more power and still drive it every day.

    3. l believe it is possible to have hydraulic lifters rebuilt quite inexpensively in the states, is this correct and any recommendations.

    4. What Turbocharger would suit my needs as l plan to make a custom crosspipe and will make the flange to suit.

    This will do for now.

    Thanks in advance.

  6. Well done, enjoy, they really are a fun car but fit a manual box and really drive it, mine runs a 4 speed D/R, (have a 5 but to lazy to fit it for the moment), and will remain so until the clutch or gearbox lunch themselves. Pick up is quicker but it makes no real difference to economy as they're all bad, auto or not. Again good luck and know you have picked up a very desireable vehicle with very few miles on the clock and that most early Subaru enthusiasts will be envious when they know what you've got.

  7. Believe me, it's all been done before, quite a few times actually, check the Australian sites. There's more than 1 MY running around with full WRX conversion, mattyB, a member on this site is running around Tasmania in a pretty awesome rig, it's a 2.2 Supercharged Brute, ( :clap: , feel free to speak up here Matt), as l said, it's all been done.

  8. Yes, you can retro fit standard 81 bits, the alt mount is the type with fan so first you must remove whatever you have there, (thermo, nothing?), to make room for it to spin. Second, you must change the engine pulley, yes l know it's the double type but what you need is the standard 81 aircon type, (it is a double also), to line up your belts if you intend to run power steering but if not the standard single 81 engine pulley must be used as the offset (as opposed to the turbo), is different.

    As you guy's run left hand drive l'm not sure how your power steering mount will be affected so can't speak for this.

  9. Yes, my Brat is running an RX, (EA-82), turbo, it was a very easy swap over and worth considering. The only modifications needed is the filing out of one hole on the 81 dump, (the inside lower from memory), about half a hole to suit the different stud pattern and of course the water cooling, this is Not a drama. I used ALL the 82 fittings on the inlet, they fit fine so if possible grab these too. The outlet is even easier, l plumbed it to the top heater hose before the tap on the engine side, (as opposed to the cab side), as there is a bypass just before the tap so your guaranteed continuous flow for disposal of hot water, use it, l made up a 3 way Brass joint from fittings puchased from an air tool place.

    You can also plumb back to the Thermostat housing but l found that it's pretty busy around there and hard to get pipes in, l used this instead to install a seperate water temp sender to keep my guage honest, it gets pretty hot down here.

    Hope this helps.

  10. Yeah - if you want to talk about non-US models, then I'm sure you could find an EA82 body with an EA81 or EA71 in front of the 5 speed D/R.... but I don't know for sure. I've seen EA82 coupe's with EA71's and 2WD 5 speeds.....

     

    GD

     

    Yep, saw heaps of EA-81 engined EA-82 bodied 5 speed dual range Subaru's, (boy l bet you can't say that quick!), some 1600's too in Israel on a recent visit, can't recall seeing to many in Aus though but thats not to say they were never here.

  11. Your right on this plus also the need to use up all the existing 4 speed parts due to the fact a new model was being developed and the flywheel/clutch thing, (different), plus a few other reasons l can't remember.

    All Aus brumby's came as 4wd d/r, we got no auto's or fwd models or 5 speeds, the ones here were all done after purchase.

  12. There very pricey in Aus too, thats if you can find a set, we would normally have to get these types of spares flown in from Japan and that also adds to the cost. The prices you have quoted would make it far easier and cheaper to order from the States, s**t, you would even save enough this way to have them air freighted in 7 days, very handy info, thanks.

  13. Front main oil seal above the oil pump is often the cause of this and usually leaves a small pool of oil on the topside of the pump also.

    Is this an EA82 or EA81? I only have experience with EA81's so if thats what it is it could be a number of things. The simplest is that its not making a good seal with the pump and leaking from that gasket. More complicated but still fairly easy is that the pump gasket (gastket between the engine and the oil pump) is leaking and dripping down to the bottom of the filter. This is the most likely situation. Not sure if this advice translates to EA82's. good luck!!
  14. I have done a n/a > turbo swap on a Brat and it's not as easy as it sounds, you will need the whole motor if you want it to hang together, the cam is different, pistons, heads, and just about everything else that hangs on the outside, you will also need an ECU, wiring loom, upgraded fuel system, x-member and exhaust, that should get it down the road.

    lf you want to keep it on the road you might also consider upgrading the suspension as that also was different and discs on the back are the only way to go.

    Hope this answers your question.

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