ztrain727

So I've read too! I was relieved however to find that the bearing NAPA had was a Koyo, and the seals were all made in Japan. Not bad for a small town parts store. They put some real muscle on the 25 ton press to get the race out. They had bigger presses, but I was worried they'd damage the spindle. Hub and spindle were both fine though. I'm still considering getting a whole knuckle off a lower miles, not rust belt car to do the other side. It's a fight every step of the way. Also noticed yesterday the driver CV inner boot is in two pieces. I think since that axle is original, wouldn't hurt to replace and reboot it with a lower mile pulled part as well. Thanks again everyone! At least I'll get one side done... Quick Question: With the camber bolt (top of the two lower strut bolts), re-align the mark on the bolt head to the strut mark and just crank the nut to torque (130ft lb I believe), correct? i.e. nut alignment doesn't matter. Can I put a few hundred miles on the car without an alignment for the camber? I've read it's not a huge deal, and want to wait to align it til I've done the other side.

Haha NTN - also Koyo - all sold under Timken's distribution. As I understand, they are all essentially OEM quality bearings. That said, I can't get any locally and need the car together by tonight. I think I'll order a timken for the other side off RockAuto and for this side, fingers crossed it lasts a bit.

Ok, thank you! Looks like there's a few not too far. I must have been delirious last night. I took another look at the knuckle/hub today and this is what I saw: https://youtu.be/Q9-EmTRsniA Looks like you all were right all along... I guess the stuck ball joint was the universe telling me to take off the knuckle. I assume I should just do both at 207k miles. NAPA has seals and ATM bearings. Can't find any info on them. I doubt O'reilley or Autozone would have anything better. I can drive an 1-1/2hrs to the nearest dealership, but I hear OEM bearings aren't great either. Good news is I found a good little machine shop in town. I'm sure he can press them. Should have done this to begin with, but thank you all for your patience and help.

Thank you guys! I was looking at re-manufactured axles not china ones (I guess A-1 cardone remans axles for subaru, but it's $220 at the dealership vs. $60 at NAPA, both cardone). I think my axle is fine though. It's a pulled subaru axle with ~140k miles on it, I think a regrease and reboot is what I need. Do I search "Axle Assy Fr" on car-part.com? Spent a hellish day trying to get the ball joints separated. Got one pinch bolt out, broke the other and drilled it for a nut and bolt. Then spent a good 4-5 hrs prying, slamming, cranking - every trick in the book to try and separate the ball joint. I was trying to do it on the car to avoid an alignment, and finally admitted defeat and took the knuckle off and went to a machine shop. I had completely stripped the 19mm threads trying to screw it off, so he welded on a nut and threaded in a slide hammer. Those threads stipped too. He resorted a sledge and an incredible mix of chisels, prying the knuckle and hammering at an angle. 1/2 hr of that and I was ready to give up, when it suddenly popped. Came out literally with a small handful of rust. I guess on the bright side, with the knuckle off, I can confirm the bearings spin smooth and feel solid. I could easily swap the axle right now too, but as said, I think it's fine and don't want to cut the bands til I have replacements on hand. I could spin the cv axle too while it's free. Anything else I should look at while it's apart. I must say I am so thankful for all the knowledge and information on here and the forums. It's great seeing people help people, and there's a lot of closet geniuses out there.

I rented a pickle fork to do the ball joints tonight. PB blaster on the castle nut and pinch bolt. Heat on the pinch bolt too I've read. Do I have to replace it anyway? If so, I may drill it too. I'm trying to decide what to do for the CV axle torn outer boot. I'm driving a few hundred miles for a wedding end of the week, so immediate options are: 1. Buy a cardone reman axle from NAPA for $60. Maybe eat the core fee and keep the original. 2. Inject a bunch of CV grease into the small tear temporarily. I've read mixing CV grease is a bad idea. This would just be for this one trip til I can order an OEM boot and pull the axle. 3. Leave it alone for now. See if the wobble comes back. Since it's a subaru axle and not clicking, my preference is to keep the axle, regrease and reboot in the near future, but take whatever precautions before this long drive.

When the wobble happens I assume you mean? Right now it's driving smooth. To see if it's the cv, a guy at the dealership said throw it in neutral if it's wobbling and see if it goes away. Sort of makes sense, except the cv's are still spinning, just not torqued I'd assume.

Hmmm could it explain the intermittent wobble? Keeping in mind this did not originally happen with the donut on, but a few months after another fairly substantial drive with the donut on the rear right and no FWD fuse. Makes me think twice about investing too much time on the cv axle/boot since it's just a theory. At the very least I will pack it full of grease and monitor things for a while.

Oooops... I remember the FWD fuse very clearly on my '97 legacy, but I somehow never noticed it on this vehicle and never saw it in the manual. I just checked the manual, and sure enough, under spare tire information, there is a little note about the FWD fuse. I'd always used the index to go straight to the tire changing section, which begins on the next page. Have I possibly damaged the differential?

Yeah I found moog's at pepboys. Cost more than OEM, so I grabbed a couple from the dealership. I'm not interested in saving a few bucks for the hassle of a poor fit. Anyway, here's the scoop! The car was on a donut when this last wobble happened because a rear tire had irreparable damage and the local tire shop put the donut front right of all places. I drove to a better tire shop, the bad wobble started after ~1hr20 of driving, up hill, 55mph just before arriving at the shop. Got 4 new tires. I let the car sit overnight. Next day, totally smooth driving again, as if nothing had happened. I talked to three mechanics. One at the dealership. He thought tranny or cv since it usually was worst up hill, under torque. Next mechanic (independent) also thought it sounded like a potential intermittent cv binding. Third mechanic (independent, foreign specialist) actually had some availability to look at the car. He took it for a rowdy test spin, cornering, braking, up hills, etc and couldn't reproduce it. He also confirmed front ball joints are bad, but wasn't so sure about the cv, etc. Basically, without reproducing the wobble, he couldn't diagnose it. I got a tube of cv grease, injected what I could into the little (~1/2") hole in the outter right boot and drove home keeping it under 55mph. No issues. I immediately put the infrared camera on it. Again, no obvious hot spots. Hub nuts around 140*F, cv axle shaft around 110-120, tranny at 180. Nothing really stood out, though it was dark and the car was on the ground. Also, no noises, clicking, grinding, etc. I'm starting to like the theory of intermittent cv binding from the torn boot. Idea is, after a long drive, things have heated up a bit, cv has spit off some grease, suddenly it gets torqued hard, possibly changing the angle slightly, and there's a metal on metal spot that starts binding. After cooling overnight, it gets skimmed with a little grease and runs smooth again for a while. This might also explain the rotor rubbing that time, as in the joint binding there doesn't let the wheel spin true, causing the rotor rub at that one point along the rotation. This cv is a pulled subaru part, 130k miles i recall, and has been on a couple years. The boot tear is small enough it's conceivable it has been loosing a little grease for some time. If I go with this theory, I need to decide stat if I should try and rush order an OEM outter boot, or get a local reman axle. I avoided the reman axles last time, but not sure if the cv would have sustained damage at this point. I'm all for jacking it up on all fours, but can't seem to reproduce the wobble again right now.

Thank you, autozone had a duralast ball joint for $28. I don’t have time to wait for something to ship at this point. Update: I went for a longer drive today and as I was coming up a hill, going about 55 she was really struggling (more than usual) and upon cresting and descending the whole car was shaking. Not super violent but a serious wobble and pulling hard to the right. No steering wheel wobble and no screeching or any obvious noise which was different from last time. I think we can rule out brakes since it happened going uphill. Cv axle? Bearing but with no excess heat? Front differential? Steering rack? Also had the drive shaft u-joint blow out a few years ago which has created a whirring sound at high speeds since. This wouldn’t explain the pulling though right?

I put the wheel back on temporarily after a little caliper/rotor/rim clean up. It's as if nothing ever happened. Smooth and quite, no shimmy. Bizarre. Next I went in for a tire balance and asked them to check all the front end stuff, and they said lower ball joints need to be done, bearing were fine (for what it's worth). I checked the hub not and inner rotor with a Fluke thermal imaging camera I'm borrowing. The hub nuts/inner rotor fronts both read about 170 *F, and the rears are around 140* F after 30 mins driving, 85* ambient, no hard breaking. I can get lower ball joints OEM for just under $50. Is that the way to go? Aftermarket same difference?

And same hubs/bearing assembly on the 2.5 and 3.0? Just checked the tie rods again and with the boot pulled back they actually seem totally solid. I can't budge the hub either, or hear any sort of grinding/roughness coming from it when my gf spins the opposite wheel. Point taken it could be hard to tell with everything else locked in. New small tear in the front right cv axle boot (the axle was replaced a couple years ago). Seems the missing tire weight would be a very good candidate for at least part of the steering wobble. The sudden screeching sound, distinctly once per rotation, I cannot say. Even though the sound was distinctly from the front right, would it be worth jacking the back up and checking the rears for play?

UPDATE: I just visually inspected all the tires. There is no weight on the rear passenger tire. This tire got a flat a few months ago and the weight likely came off. Could this be the source my problems? Thank you both very much for the detailed information! I already ordered inner tie rod ends because I figure they are due. The car has a tendency to steer itself on rutted roads, etc. Does that help at all? The caliper and wheel are both off and there is no real play in the hub. There's a lot of rust down there, so if I do take this off, I should know right away if the bearing is bad by spinning the free hub and listening? I assume the bearings are the same, front left/right, but the hubs are specific to each side? I'll be in the nearest big city in a few days, so I'll swing by their u-pull and browse a bit. I could just pull a good condition front right hub and bolt it on, get an alignment and (hopefully) be good for a while? The car has 210k miles, so obviously trying to keep time/money invested to a minimum.

Sorry, here are new links: Was trying to film the steering linkage rotating here. That's what is clunking. Inner tie rod look worn? Seems to have fresh grease... A wheel bearing does seem logical for the rotor rubbing, shimmy, etc. No sound when hand spinning the hub, but there a slight bump bump bump I can feel through the rotor as it rotates. That feeling could be the cv axle or something else though, can't say. No real play in the hub as far as I can tell. When you say check the hub bolt, do you mean the 32MM nut? An 04 bearing needs to be pressed, correct? I don't have the tools

Here are videos of the wheel play. Could this be a a bad steering rack? Or more likely an inner tie rod? https://youtu.be/sWPNrr8tclo https://youtu.be/Ts3CpgI-UXQ

When I jacked the car up, it was immediately apparent that the rotor was rubbing from spinning the wheel a bit. I had my gf wobble the wheel while I watched underneath. The outer tie rod looked good, and I couldn’t see the inner because of the boot (can I just slide it over?), but the ball joint had a lot of play. Is it possible a ball joint could cause these symptoms? I took the caliper apart. Definitely looking a little rough. Is there any way to service the pistons other than buying a reman caliper?

Ok yeah I think I’ll start with the tie rod. The front end needs some attention, but it’s tricky timing because I’m building a house right now. Getting the bearing pressed is something I’d love to save for future fun but they are certainly due. I was also thinking of greasing the caliper slides and taking a look in there since it’s not too much trouble.

So jacked it up and gave the wheel a good shake. It’s solid vertically (12 & 6 o’clock) but has some movement and a little clunking sound side to side (3 & 9). I need someone else to move it while I look, but could this be caused by a bad tie rod even if the wheel bearing is good?

Foreign object stuck in there would make sense for what happened today, but wouldn’t explain the gradually worsening shimmy. I think I’ll jack it up tomorrow and check the wheel for play re bearings or tie rods. Whats weird though is the speed of the rubbing. It seemed more like the diameter of the rotor hitting, or almost the wheel hitting something. The noise went away or I’d make a video. One thing that came to mind is a failing wheel bearing or loose tie rod (or loose lugs but ruled that out) could cause the wheel to spin out of true enough to cause rotor/wheel rubbing. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks so much for the quick responses! You know how it is losing your daily driver...

2004 H6 3.0 Outback 207K miles Steering shimmy for a bit now, worse up hill / accelerating. Previously changing speeds would help, but no longer. Today, driving on a mostly straight, flat road, sudden scrapping sound and bad binding on front right wheel. Scrapes once per rotation. This was verified driving very slowly. Binding is also what is causing the steering wheel wobble. The sound is disntincly metal on metal, and has an almost hollow sound. Not a consistent grinding or whining, but distinct scrape each revolution. Limped home slowly - after 5 miles or so the shimmy remains but far less, and the sound is gone. Checked the lugs. All tight. First thought was sticking caliper, but the rotats aren’t warped so it’s weird it hits once per revolution like that. Second thought was possible wheel bearing or tie rod. CV axel replaced a few years ago, this is distinctly different from the clicking sound of fail CV. Wheel bearings and tie rods are original to my knowledge.

UPDATE: I'm back in town after extensive travels, so headed down to the ole subie... After a few hours of troubleshooting, it turns out I mixed up the cam pulleys. They are marked L and R, L=driver, R=passenger, if anyone references this in the future. The L cam pulley has notches on the back for the cam position sensor which makes them easy to distinguish. It now fires up. Running a little rough though. Once I top the coolant off I'll run it for a while and see if it evens out. Maybe the HLA lifters or rusty valves...

Thanks grossgary! So I've been out of town, but my girlfriend actually went for it and replaced both bearings and the belt, as well as the suction hose. I guess she's a keeper Anyway, she said the noise went down but there are still bubbles in the reservoir and a whine. Seems to me like air would enter at 1) the suction hose or 2) the o-ring. Is it possible the pump itself could introduce air? I replaced the o-ring, but it was matched, so I'll try ordering the real deal.

Haha start with the obvious. Will do. Gonna be out of town for a while for work, but I'll get it running when I return

Got most everything hooked up minus the air intake, front accessories (ac - alt - ps) Engine cranks but won't fire. Here's a video: It sounds like duh DUH duh DUH duh DUH if that makes sense. I'm a little suspicious I botched the timing because cranking it by hand spat out the bags plugging the exhaust headers on only one side. But I lined up the timing marks and double counted the teeth! I've done it before, but re-using a marked belt not a new one, so I was a little confused that the belt marks are on the notch, whereas the cam marks are on the groove. Still, counted it at 44 and 40.5

Awesome! That was the plan for today, but I'm still confused about where they plug in to the rest of the wiring harness. In front or behind intake manifold/driver or passenger? I'll figure it out...