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brus brother

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Posts posted by brus brother

  1. Thanks all for the moral support (Moosens) and technical suggestions.
    Stopped by a local shop today who got it up on a lift and showed those bolts who was boss. No way I could have wrenched them on my back. BTW Moose, 'twas Ferry Blvd Sunoco.

    Major hiccup with the Raysbestos 980354FZN rotors I had ordered from Amazon. After installed, the wheels were barely able to turn... even the side where nothing was done to the bearing, simply swapping out the rotor. Tech asked if I was sure they were the correct rotors. He was able to determine they were rubbing on the parking brake assembly, disassembled and put them on the lathe twice to take down this small but interfering ridge.

    Later, when calling Amazon to pitch a b&%tch, I came across the following 2 star review:

    "The rotor itself is fine seems to be built well. I installed these on my 2008 Subaru outback 2.5l non turbo manual 5 speed transmission.
    Install was easy and just like every other rotor. When the tires was installed and torqued down the rotor was pressing against the heat shield and rear knuckle so hard the tire would not spin. I spent about 10 minutes on each rotor grinding off the lip for the drum brakes in order for it to fit when the wheel was installed. Either I got lucky with a factory defect or these just are not designed to fit a 2008 Subaru outback like they say. All in all I got them to work but I'll be ordering a better fitting product since these do not fit as described."

    Amazon fully refunded me for the rotors (now working), said keep them and even tossed in a small gift card for the aggravation.

    I would have been so screwed, this being our only car right now, had I run into this in my dimly lit work area whilst slithering around on the ground.:banghead:

     

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  2. 1 hour ago, heartless said:

    and when all else fails, and you end up rounding off the heads, I can confirm that these do work... https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/5-pc-bolt-grip-base-set

    but as ido said.. make SURE you are on nice and square..

    Not there quite yet. Funny that the top 2 reviews on that link reference a hub removal and caliper bracket rounded over bolt removal hell.
    For certain I am using 6 point impact sockets and they have been seated completely but those bolts are having a good laugh at my expense. My electric Harbor Freight impact wrench is powerful enough to remove lug nuts so I had high hopes but alas. Also, there are no small electric impact hammers to coax these bolts.

    IF I had a lift AND a compressor that would actually drive air tools, it might be doable to air hammer those suckers and their rusty innards into submission.

    I am afraid that working in close quarters on my back, trying to ball-peen hammer punch the head of those recessed bolts, I am just as likely to hammer my own head.

    I am a pit bull, doggedly persistent to a fault, but will likely now support a local shop instead of potchkyng it up to the point of needing to buy an entire trailing arm as this is our only car right now.

  3. The rear wheel bearing / rotor replacement saga continues. 

    First time replacement 120K miles and likely the caliper bracket bolts are virgins, here in rusty, crusty New England.

    On the 08 OB, SOA decided to bury the top bolt inside a port hole on the knuckle.

    The lower one is just barely more accessible.

    Liftless, working on the ground, me and Jack Stanz, I have tried multiple PB Blaster soaks, 1/2 ratchet and just today 1/2 impact gun with 3/8 non-impact extensions. 

    The bolts just shrugged and I think I saw the extensions twisting.

    Is the god of fire the only remaining remedy? If so, that top bolt will be a challenge.

    Prayers welcome.

  4. When cold and humid conditions are just right, I get misfire cylinder #3.

    Moved ignition wires around and the fault stays with cylinder #3.

    If coil fails, can it be just 1 cylinder or is there usually a crossover/share?

    No sparkle light show if I spray water in the area.

    If replacing, is there a reliable alternative to SOA at ~$120?

    Ignition Coil 22433AA580

     

  5. 5 hours ago, moosens said:

    You knew this already but I’m here to remind you. Twist that hose when it hits the baffle. Make that hose end dance around the field until she falls into the well. 
     

    And I’m still local if you need me. 

    Hey Paul. Thanks for the offer.

    I measured the dip stick and was able to shove in an additional 10-12". While I didn't know nuthin' 'bout no baffle, initially It wasn't drawing oil so I backed out the line a little and then she started to flow. I assumed it had coiled atop the oil pan as I didn't see anything protruding out the tail pipe. It drained the first ~3 quarts and then said good enough, you take it from here, buddy or as they say in TV land, Better Call Paul 😉

    I am guessing that if you can plumb the depths straight down to an oil field, then you are good but if you are poking around in the dark, well, then good luck or as an old timer patiently but doubting said to me, "let me know how that works out!"

  6. FAIL!

    Not exactly sure how the oil pan is stepped but regardless of how far I tried to place/manipulate the drain hose, it only sucked out about 3 quarts.

    Sucks... but not enough?

    And so then I had to wriggle under the car and finish the job old school.

    Oh, one more thing, what's with the combo handle for the jack where you have to thread the lug wrench through a small handle that engages the jack?

    OK now get off my lawn.

     

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