Mr.Atlantis
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Posts posted by Mr.Atlantis
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I would say anywhere between 4 and 4 1/2 hours shop time. Assuming that it will just be a clean swap. If a rebuild is necessary, you may be looking at around 10 hours and much more $$$. $2000 for parts and labor sounds about right, also assuming that the $2000 includes the used tranny.
I got all the above times from my AllDataDIY.com account. The car referenced was for my 08 Outback Legacy. Labor time should be around the same. New transmissions could be in excess of $4000.
Hope this helps. -
1/8th turn = 22.5 deg.
EDIT: My bad! I used to be good at mental arithmetic. Not any more apparently...
I noticed the mistake too, I just let it slide
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Below is a lil sketch I threw together explaining that I may not have replaced the cap, and bearings exactly where they came from, but did install correctly.
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Ring and pinion gears/front differential. The "lash", how they engage, has to be just about dead on or failure is very likely.
I never took the gears out of the case, I just unscrewed the caps to get the oil seals and o-rings out. However, the gears inside were in my opinion free-floating in the case when I took the caps off. As in, I could have easily removed them, or turned them and whatnot.
When I first started to unscrew the driver's side, I had the transmission sitting in it's 'as installed position', and I noticed a beveled gear trying to follow the cap out as I unscrewed it. I quickly turned the case on its side to allow gravity to hold it in there.
I was refering to the axel cups and bearing orientation earlier.
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No. 1/8th of a turn is 45 degrees which would be 5 or 6 notches......WAAAAY too much
Really you shouldn't mess with it at all......if you installed them back to the proper marks......that's were it should be.
Bearing preload is only part of it. The cup position also sets the R+P engangement....so messing with it messes with the teeth of that gear which could wreck the R+P
And bearing preload doesn't have any effect on CV axles.....if they are clicking after a regrease/boot...... they are just old...time for new ones.
Ok, I'll leave them alone. I'll just replace the axles soon.
What do you mean when you say "R+P engagment"? Not sure I know the meaning of this...
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Strange because I don't think the inner joints click when failing, only the outer joints. Any chance you screwed up the reinstall? Cone washer installed wrong/ditto for washer/insufficient nut torque?
I got to thinking... When I replaced the axles, I also installed new Oil Seals and O-Rings. I counted the turns when I removed the retainers and was sure to re-install them the same. As to not allow the beveled bearings to fall out I replaced one at a time by turning trans on to side allowing gravity to keep all gears and bearings in place. Would noise come from my case if this 'lash' adjustment wasn't performed absolutely, dead nuts perfect? I mean, even if I knew the exact gap between retainer and bearing surface - how could one even get an accurate measurement? It's a sealed enclosure once installed
Could I give each side an extra 1/8 of a turn tighter in hopes of fixing the chatter? Or would that introduce a whole world of messy stuff?
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I've heard good things about the axles from Car Quest.
World PAC is the name I believe.
I've bought one, haven't installed yet been waiting for my failing one to start clicking after I rebooted.
They do have a life time Warranty too.
Car Quest and NAPA get same parts right? Either-way, I've received better reviews from those two and the opposite from Advanced and Autozone.
get some real soob units from car-part.com and rebuild them.
Raxles.com
FWE in Colorado (was MWE - Shawn has them ; http://retroroo.com/subaru-axles-denvercolorado/ )
just some more ideas.
I'll look into this, but I fear the frustration involved with rebuilding again..
I went with an EMPI shaft from RockAuto for our one Forester (3) years ago and it's still going strong.
Tried and true, exactly what I like to hear! Thank you.
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I'll give it a few more miles and see how it goes.
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typically the inner OEm cv joints never fail...
... but I should probably mention that when I slipped the axel side cover off to remove old grease - the 3 bearings fell on the table and I completely lost the original positions. I installed them correctly, but bearings may have switched or flipped. Damn thing was too greasy to hold let alone keep track of bearings.
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I just bought EMPI/Empire axles for by '84 Brat - they are really nice so far. www.rockauto.com seems to have them for your 2008 (if I looked it up right) for ~$60.00 and no core cost.
Yep, that sounds about right for my Outback. Thanks for the feedback.
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Honestly though, the axels are bad. They need to be replaced. Any good suggestions that have been tried and don't break in the first year?
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I can double check nuts, but I should probably mention that when I slipped the axel side cover off to remove old grease - the 3 bearings fell on the table and I completely lost the original positions. I installed them correctly, but bearings may have switched or flipped. Damn thing was too greasy to hold let alone keep track of bearings.
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Re-packed and booted my orignal Front CV axles last month due to both Trans side boots ripping. I went with the Re-pack option because I was weary of inferior parts from over-seas.
They just started clicking last week. So bascically I wasted my time and now I'm going to need to purchase something.
Any "tried-and-true" suggestions on some budget axels?
On Rock Auto's website I can get some A1Cardone's anywhere between 60-80/ea., Napa gets around 135 (after core)...Yadda yadda, feedback time.
Thanks in advance.
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2008 outback would most likely be ej253 SOHC. If its DOHC, it would be ej254.
TY758VCABA-GA:
1st 3.4542nd 2.0623rd 1.4484th 1.0885th 0.780Rev 3.333TR 1.0FD 4.11Front OpenCenter Viscous 4kgfRear R160+OpenThank you for the detailed breakdown. So it's 4th gear that is closest to my 'direct' drive-line huh? I was always told it was 3rd.
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EA, EJ, EG, FA, FB are engine types.
You have an EJ25 engine. Im not sure of the specific code on that year.
EJ is the engine series
25 is displacement.
There are numbers afterwards to indicate other features of the engine.
EJ251,-253,-257, etc.
Transmission is just a 5MT.
There is a wikipedia page with lots of info about Subaru engines and transmissions.
Thanks, I'll give it a looksie.
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I see talk of EA this and EJ that. I'm assuming these are the Trans or Engine types of the particular vehicles in discussion.
Does anyone have a complete list with matching years and models (or at least OEM installation)?
What is under my stock 2008 Legacy Outback 2.5i 5MT?
My transmission is labeled: TY758VCABA-GA (which is about the only ID I could find on it.)
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Ok. Yeah, that will help.
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...or were you not planning on taking the motor out again?
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More aggresive cams will play a huge role. Plus anything taken from the shaft, i.e. replace harmonic balancer w/underdrive pulley, and/or a lighter flywheel.
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I would have to imagine that whatever the issue is, it would be similar on any vehicle regardless of make, correct?
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Is this a year where the Fuel and Filter is a combo unit?
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- 1999 Mercury Cougar V6 2.5l
Scenario 1: Hands on Wheel
Pulls very hard to the left when braking. After letting off the brakes - the car will immediately straighten itself out.
Scenario 2: Hands off the Wheel
If traveling in a straight line - Wheel turns to left when braking as if some kind of auto pilot has been engaged, but the vehicle continues in a straight path. After letting off the brakes - the wheel straightens out. Once again, maintaining a pretty straight path.
Obviously Scenario 2 is undoubtedly dangerous. We have temporarily learned to counter steer while braking. Terrible thing to have to learn.
Any thoughts on where I should begin?
- One of Front Struts?
- Rack or Rack bushings?
- Tie-rods?
- I’ve already replaced Calipers, Pads and Rotors all the way around the car. My initial thought was a hanging caliper.
Kind regards
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I just recently dealt with a similar issue. I was getting very little power and it would shutter on acceleration. I would actually have to floor it in 1st gear to make it up hills. I replaced the downstream O2, MAF Sensor, Spark Plugs and Wires, and treated my fuel. Nothing.
I had someone rev the engine while I cupped my hands over the exhaust pipes and realized very little was escaping. It never triggered the appropriate codes because it was clogged in an un-monitored resonator/cat thing built into my intermediate pipe. However it did randomly trigger lean A/F ratio type codes (which is what made me spring for the downstream sensor and MAF).
The fix (for me): Removed intermediate pipe, attached wire coat hanger with several twists at end to my battery powered drill and aborted the filling into a shop vac.
Immediately fixed my issue. It actually has more power now than when I purchased.
WARNING: My car's intermediate pipe was un-monitored. This could present a serious issue if done to a vehicles monitored converter.
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yeah, from what I've read, some of those apps can get more helpful data than just DTCs. Give it a shot!
Will do, thanks again.
Possible to bypass A/C compressor shutting down?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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This also explains the sudden drop in RPM sometimes when I cock the wheel too quickly and/or to it's extreme limits.