gunther4272001

Well did a compression test on the cylinders the only one showing no compression was cylinder 3. Just going to replace that cylinder head and see what happens

going to probably pull the heads sometime this week to see if there is any piston damage and if everything looks good go buy the heads I found to swap them out

That’s what my mechanic said too. Maybe someone changed it out with a cheap kit . It happened at idle when I was warming it up, I’m thinking a valve job myself because if there was piston damage I don’t think it would have started up and ran

We put everything back together car will run but real rough and hard starting. Would this just be bent valves or possibly worse? Trying to figure out my next plan of action

i fluid filmed mine plus on the rear quarter i removed the little trim strip around the wheel well because its just a catch all for the salt and dirt

I just talked to the previous owner and they said it has always sounded like that as far as they know ( was owned by her grandma since it was new) so I'm thinking piston slap but going to check the timing tensioner anyhow. also going to run some seafoam through it to try to clean some sludge out of it being that it only has 34,000 miles on it maybe there is some kind of build up in it

I have to get ahold of the person I bought it from to find out if it was doing it . I bought the car after they hit a curb at speed ( probably around 25 mph) and basically had to replace the k-frame and the steering components. I'll have to check that maybe it was jarred lose from the impact

It's low mileage car and it seems to go away at higher Rpms. Was just wondering because it wasn't throwing any check engine codes and was trying to figure out the course of action to try to fix it

I know there is a knock in these older cars but does this sound a little excessive 49876932483__0E6C8D3F-79CD-4256-A214-4E3A5AB75D0C.MOV

Has anyone ever replaced a k frame on a 2001 outback limited and how difficult is it

we did reburp the system recently and decided to put on a new cap while at it haven't had any problems lately

I'm still not completely convinced its a head gasket i did however get some more air out of the system and replaced the radiator cap . there hasn't been any repeat overheating since it is omething imkeeping my eye on

there may be a proper way to it which i understand what your saying, all i can say is that is what i did and it worked can't explain why but it did. there is no evidence of a head gasket problem there is no coolent in my oil or in the tranny,no signs of leaking anywhere on the motor and the exhaust has no moisture comming out the exhaust or no smell of burning coolant. all I can say is it hasnt overheated since

with the cap on to get it to start to overheat and then shut the car off

update on the overheating got it fixed as far as i can tell . I couldn't get to stop overheating so my friend told me the only way he got the air out of his was to run it until it got hot and shut it down and lett it cool down till its cold.by some miricle it worked , just got done taking it on a 40 mile drive up hills and horsing on it and it never came over the middle of the gauge.thanks for all the input guys

ok I'll try it in a while

are you talking about the plug with the screw head on it?

on my old radiator one of the hose inlet/outlet tubes cracked and pretty much desinagrated. forgot to add did have another subaru radiator in it before this one, it worked and didnt have any problems with it other than i couldn't secure it down right(needed it to just work so i could get to work)

I'm not seeing any bubbles and not seeing anything in my oil or in my tranny fluid

I just installed a used radiator in my 98 legacy outback and it will run at normal temp. for awhile then it will start to overheat. it will push all the antifreeze into the resivor. if i release the pressure on the cap it will start to run normal again.every once in a while i lose heat for about 1 or 2 minutes and the antifreeze seems cold not hot. ive been told it sounded like a air bubble in the system any ideas?

having the car on ramps we got 5 qts. each change so i figured on doing one more . i was just worried about the detergents in the new fluid causing any of the old sediment that is in there to plug up the valve body ports. Was told it was a bad idea to do this by half the guys i talked to and the other half said it shouldn't be a problem , i guess time will tell. thanks for the all the imput on the topic

i changed it the first time with about 500 miles on it was thinking about doing it again at 1000 miles on this one. one other question is there a chance of this ruining my tranny ? this is comming from warnings from guys that screwed up the transmission by doing this in older cars

it seems like i fixed the shifting problem in my legacy. I ended up draining the fluid out of the pan and was going to drop pan to check the wiring for the selenoid. When draining it the fluid looked like black motor oil real thick, so instead of dropping the pan i just changed the 5 quarts i removed after 2 days must be the new detergents in the new fluid must have done something because its been shifting ever since. my question is I've already changed the fluid 1 time since it was a brownish red color should I do it 1 more time or should i just leave it alone seeing that it's running fine? Another question is it's running around 2500 rpm at 60 mph does that sound about right?

the trans started shifting again but does it intermittingly will shift fine for short times then stops. Transmission guy said sounds like a wiring problem any ideas where to start at

just seemed funny changed the tps the light went out and was shifting again. hasnt came back on since usually comes back on within a few starts