sirtokesalot
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Posts posted by sirtokesalot
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trying to help my cousin get his 98 outback going again. the front diff went dry and seized currently looking at transmissions. his car has a TZ102Z2DBA currently in it. will a TZ1A2ZJEAA work electronically? they are both same final drive ratios.
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55 minutes ago, lmdew said:
Could head to the yard and pull a complete harness and swap them out. Sounds like he may have more going on with the trans.
are the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder transmission speed sensors the same? i have spare speed sensors and harnesses from transmissions ive scrapped that slipped. the transmission drives fine and shifts perfect. no slipping the car did sit parked for a while before he got it. mileage is 68,000. the transmission handshake only gave up the code 93 for the speed sensor.
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he got the car about a month ago. it has under 100,000 miles on it i believe everything is original on it. the abs and vdc lights were on and recently started with the at temp light. so the sensor i want to check is the one at the furthest back? or is it the one slightly up and forward from the back?
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im trying to help a friend out with his at temp light flashing. it has a code 93 Rear vehicle speed sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. my question is witch sensor is the rear vehicle speed sensor? it also had abs and vdc lights on. the at temp starts flashing as soon as you try to drive it and tcm has code 93. i have read the cel light and forget what code was on at that time but it was not related to transmission or speed signals.
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maby a strut top is seizing and making it bind when turning?
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8 hours ago, lmdew said:
All the power windows I have worked with have been hard wired! Not enough draw to need a relay.
i was looking at the wiring diagram and it showed a relay so i figured there was a relay for them.
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no one knows where the relay is located?
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i want to do a mod to my car so the windows will work if the drivers door is open and the key is not in. my thought is to energize the power window relay from the door switch on the drivers door so anytime the door is open the windows should work and then would work normally with the key. where is the power window relay located? its a 2001 outback.
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sorry i disappeared. the bmw developed a new issue and havent managed to get parts to fix it yet so its been parked again. the batt bulb on the bmw does work. it lights up with key on and goes out with key off but i know if u unhook the plug on the alternator it stops charging and the light does not come on. it is difficult to get to the alternator plugs on the bmw with the air box installed and it has the old school air flow meter in the airbox so it wont run without it installed. i would up just installing a volt gauge in the dash to monitor charging but id like to make the idiot light function at some point because the water pump is driven by the alternator belt as well and would like any warnings i could to notify me of overheating possibility's.
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i have tried it in a few configurations and i beleive i cannot get the light on the bmw to work with the subaru alternator. oh well it charges anyways.
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i have mounted a 1995 subaru outback alternator to a 1987 bmw and im trying to figure out how to get the battery light to function on the bmw. what does the subaru alternator put out to make the battery light come on when charging stops? how exactly does that bulb circuit work on a 1995 outback? i currently have it installed and functioning as it charges the battery but the bulb on the dash never lights.
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getting near 2500 miles now since repair so far so good.
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i have a pioneer radio but use the factory speaker wiring from the radio to the doors. this morning i went to leave and had no door speakers at all only subs. i pulled the radio and unhooked speakers one at a time and when i unhooked the drivers door the other 3 speakers came back to life. i took the door apart and found nothing visually wrong but after taking the door apart i was able to re attached the drivers door speaker without it killing the other 3. what can cause this? i also noticed that it was only the ground wire for the speaker that would kncok it out the positive wire would make the speaker come to life but only if i left the ground unhooked. after pulling door apart was able to hook up both wires to the speaker.
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had a scare last night with it. apparently the passenger ball joint nut dident like being off and on multiple times over the past year and the nut was compromised. went around a corner and the nut popped off the ball joint and it separated. ended up jacking it up there and re assembling the ball joint using a lug nut for the ball joint to get it home. i swapped the lug nut for a standard castle nut with new cotter pin. it had one of those lock nuts on there before. even found the old nut with the threads tore out of it. i read the torque spec for the ball joint is 29.5 ft pound i put it up to 40 ft pound with new nut and a little more for the cotter so im prety sure it should stay put now. so far no at temp light but i havent really driven it far yet.
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well heres my current plan. i just de pinned the tcu connector and the transmission connector from a scrap harness i have in the attic and stole the pins from it. i am going to depin the yellow/green wire from the tcu side and the transmission side and re pin it with a new wire. hopfully this will fix the issue and if not im sure ill be back again. will update in time.
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3 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Awesome, good find. How positive are you it was exhibiting the issues at the time of testing?
It may have just not had a bad connection during testing.
I wonder if there's a way to monitor that wire during driving so you can see what's happening when it has issues and when it doesnt?
the light was not flashing so i asume it was working at the time i tested it. wiggling wires did not make it drop out ither.
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10 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Splice in a new wire from the body side trans connector harness for the Transfer solenoid to it's destination, which I think is the TCU. It's only one wire I believe.
You can even use those little "clip in splices" that don't require cutting any wires just for a test run. Then make sure to properly do it and tape it up to protect it.
Ohmed it from where?
I think you want to wait for the light to be on and symptoms present and test for continuity of the transfer solenoid wire from the body side harness to the TCU. Of course the issue may be so intermittent that it won't fail the test.
yellow wire with green stripe at tcu. meter on ohm setting and everything connected. on startup both cars show around 15 to 16 ohms in park in reverse both cars show around 60 ohms neutral ol drive 3 2 and 1 around 60 ohms and park only shows an ohm reading when first started that reading goes to ol after a little waiting or after shifting out of park and back to park. readings are within 1 ohm of each other between the 2 cars.
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i just dont know what to do or where to look. wires dont appear to be near the steering joints inside or out. im just kind of thinking the only way im going to fix it is to just swap all the wiring. i supose could try to run another wire from the tcu out to the engine bay and connect it to the transmission. i just have doubts because this car has been a pain the whole way trying to get everything working correctly.
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i just went out and ohmed the yellow with green stripe wire on both the legacy and the outback i get similar readings from both cars. of course on the outback the light stopped blinking after driving it home in fwd.
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79: Transfer duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit. same code it always gives and i have tried changing solenoids on previous transmissions without any long term results.
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its back. ive changed the transmission 3 times now and the tcu a few times as well. im thinking i may have a wiring problem. would the engine/dashboard wiring harnesses from a 2001 legacy gt work in my 2001 outback? would i need to use the legacy ecu with the legacy harness or could i just use all of my cars computers with the gt's wiring harness?
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still getting the p1591 neutral position switch circuit low input every second start i tryed swapping the inhibitor switch and ecu get same code. what is it the ecu wants to see from the neutral position switch and can i just feed that to it so the code will just never set? the car does start in park or neutral as well.
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i undid my bypass earlier and the car is now setting that code with or without the bypass.
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21 hours ago, Numbchux said:
I've put a hot shot relay in a couple subarus with no trouble. As long as it's triggered by the factory switch, it should all be fine. The system doesn't know if it's directly triggering the starter solenoid, or a relay.
It's possible that the original problem was a failing neutral/range switch or wiring to it, and you are now getting a second symptom.
so when u did the hot wire thing how did u wire it? in my car i left the stock wiring there and simply added a second system to help the factory setup work. my system is just wired in along side the factory wiring. relay trigger is the key to start position relay gets power from battery and is passed through right to the starter spade post. i left the factory wire attached there as well. my wire is actually attached simply by holding it over the post and plugging the factory wire in so it folded my wire around the tab and is held there just by the fact that the factory wire is plugged in.
transmission compatibility?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by sirtokesalot
i used info from here https://legacypic.uk/transmission/ i also asked about it on a facebook group and it seems like this transmission is not compatible with the 98 outback.