sirtokesalot
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Posts posted by sirtokesalot
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its fixed. i changed the passenger sensor abs light was still on so i cleared the abs codes rechecked them and it was showing front left sensor code 23. so i pulled the abs sensor off the part car and swapped the front drivers sensor cleared the abs codes again and no more light.
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Im having trouble reading the blink codes could someone please help me fifure out what codes its blinking to me? Im prety sure the codes started repeating in the video. I want to think its 21 22 and 44 but im.not 100%sure. What the heck does 44 mean? 21 and 22 is front right
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so about removing a transmission from a seized engine. is it possible to pull the transmission out without unbolting the torque converter? everything is still in the car as well. and if i cannot get the torque converter is it ok to use the converter from the foresters current bad transmission? going to be heading out to the car this transmissions in in a few hours.
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10 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
checked the trans fluid while idling right?
fluid look OK? it someitimes happens that a trans gets the wrong fluid put in it. should be reddish - maybe very clear read if changed recently.
is the trans pan dented? did the previous owner change the trans or engine?
engine was idling fluid was dirty looking but full. pan was not dented car has 205,000 i beleive its the original transmission.
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i have a transmission i can get basically for free but it has an issue. its attached to an outback with a seized engine. i will not be able to get the torque converter. could i use the converter from the transmission thats currently in the forester? and is it possible to get the transmission off the torque converter with the engine still in the car?
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so i got this forester for free they said the transmission was shot but when i jump started it the thing drove. i was driving it around my yard for about 10 minutes and all a sudden it stopped engaging all gears. i hosed the transmission down with a power washer to cool it off and it drove another 20 feet before dropping all gears again. fluid is full. im gonna assume its the transmission is shot but is there anything els i could check before commiting to finding and replacing the transmission? would it be worth trying a fluid change?
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alright so i got the car all back together with the yard cars tcm installed and no more flashing light transmission is behaving normally. a side note im not sure if it was the issue or not because i but the bad tcm into my yard car and it is now not throwing the flashing light issue in the yard car so i dunno
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so i may have got lucky. i just pulled the tcm out of our 2001 legacy sedan yard car and plugged it into my 2001 outback fired it up and the at temp light shut off. guess the yard car is about to become full time 4x4.
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so while i was driving home yesterday from work the at temp light started flashing and felt like the transmission was binding while turning. i just finished putting the tail housing back together on the trans and replaced the duty c solenoid with a known working one and the at temp light is still flashing. is there any other simple checks i can do or am i gonna have to pull the trans and swap another one in
it did flash about 5 days ago as well and i ended up putting the fwd fuse in and it stopped flashing and went into fwd and i ended up taking the fuse back out on my lunch break and it was working again after that for the last 4 days until last night when it happened the second time and now even with another transfer solenoid installed that is known working i get the at temp flashing and it will not go into fwd anymore with the fuse.
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could engine mounts or trans mounts cause a shake? i dunno what els to think of. i do have another set of engine and trans mounts around
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3 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
That's crazy. That would bug me like crazy.
it does bug me very badly. so much that i went the crazy route of replacing everything and still dident fix it.
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so im calling it un fixable. at this point ive replaced everything in the front end and still have the shaking. this is including using my brand new snow tires on balanced wheels. theres nothing left to try replacing. anyone wanna buy a car with rebuilt engine and all new suspension and steering components? only down side is it will shake forever with no reason why
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can delete or leave up for future reference. i got mad and floored it coming down my driveway and felt the power steering kick in for a second so when i got in the parking spot i revved the engine up to around 3500 while steering and could feel it coming and going until it finally had steady power steering and wasent fading out anymore. i had to rev the engine to get it to flow the rest throgh the rack.
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i replaced the steering rack on my 2001 outback this morning and after i finished i added fluid to the power steering steered left and right got power steering for about a minute or so in the driveway and when i went for a test drive the power steering vanished. came back home tryed steering left and right again the system is not pulling any more fluid out of the resivour and i have what feels like manual steering with 0 assist now. the power steering worked fine before the swap what am i doing wrong?
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6 hours ago, heartless said:
all i could see was camera shaking...
i sincerely doubt that a tiny bit if movement (if indeed there is any) in that steering rack is the source of your vibration. More likely to be that wobbly stub shaft you mentioned earlier.
Yes it was hard to hold the camera still while pushing and pulling the tie rod end. There is definitely some movement in the rack so i am replacing it. I ended up buying a new one.
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are reman steering racks worth anything or should i just buy new?
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at this point now ive also changed the a arms and rear bushings now as well. also found a slightly worn ball joint that i also replaced still shakes the only thing left is the steering rack witch i noticed has this spot where the rack moves while its steering in and out. hard to see on camera but can barly see it more obvious in person. it seems like where the center is dips down then back up as it passes that spot.
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im trying to justify changing it out lol i really dont wanna do the job but at the same time i do know the axle stub shaft play is an issue just not sure if its the issue im trying to fix by replacing the transmission
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2 hours ago, suprunner said:
I recommend looking at doing the calculations: https://www.engineersedge.com/mechanics_machines/transmission-gear-ratio-calculator.htm
Also, your final drive gear (5th or 6th) will determine the RPMs that you might be traveling at, and consequently how much fuel you'll be consuming...
http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart
I bought a 5mt from a JDM '05 LGT wagon, and swapped in the stub shafts and speedo gear for my '98 Outback. Splitting the case and removing/reinstalling everything isn't that bad, honestly. I've got 10 thumbs and I didn't think it was too bad. There are a bunch of write-ups on splitting the case...
Once it's open, the ring/pinion gear are easily accessed, and removable...
hope any of this helps!
Greg
mine is an automatic
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2 hours ago, el_freddo said:
The axle shaft/stub play will probably be the diff bearings needing adjusting. This means playing with the “sundials”. And that could induce a vibration through the steering.
Swapping in a different gearbox would be way easier for the uninitiated than swapping the diff ratio in your current box! You might find the drive ratios are different between the two gearboxes depending on what your model is and what the replacement box came from.
Cheers
Bennie
thats what i ment. i have another complete transmission and rear diff with around 97,000 miles on it and it is a 4.11 ratio. the transmission thats currently in the car is a 4.44. my plans was to just swap all of it over.
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transmission in the car has 212,000 miles and alot of axle stub shaft play in the diff the transmission im planning to put in has 97,000 miles and 0 axle stub shaft play. aside from axle stub shaft play the 4.44 trans works alright occasionally it shifts around weird but doesn't slip. i also sort of feel like the axle stub play is contributing to a shake in the steering.
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how much of a difference will i notice going from a 4.44 to a 4.11 trans and diff?
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I got 23 back on the way to work this morning. Looks like im pulling the drivers front apart again soon
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9 hours ago, idosubaru said:
awesome - good plan. let us know.
was any work done in the last year or so that may have rendered an ABS plug not fully seated? or any work that may have damaged an ABS sensor or ABS wiring? suspension, brakes?
are there any other running or driving issues? it's not impossible for other issues to confuse the ABS.
sensors are the only ABS failures to trigger the light that i've run across. one with 1/2" of build up or grit stuck to it - blew it off with compressed air and was good to go.
actually yes. it all started after i changed all 4 rotors and pads. but i had taken it off roading prior to that as well and power washed the under side of the car before i did the brakes to wash the mud off. so im not sure if i caused it by changing the brakes or if i caused it by power washing the bottom of the car. i did not have any abs issues after off roading and before i washed the under side of the car / changed the brakes.
make fog lights stay on with high beams?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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whats the easiest way to make the fog lights stay on when the high beams are on? i have a 2001 outback. i dont really want them to run all the time only when the headlights are on and on both low and high beams.