sirtokesalot
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Posts posted by sirtokesalot
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hey sorry guys i have been looking at the advice just haven't had a chance to get out and look at it. currently cold as all hell outside and got sent home early today from lack of customers. my jobs still open so trying to find time when its not raining or still cold is hard. i will get to it soon and check this stuff out any other ideas to look at when i get into it is greatly appreciated
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you are correct i did not notice that. it is a 2001 outback it does not seem different on wet roads i dont really drive much dirt roads.
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wait are u guys talking about the front axles or the center driveshaft? the center driveshaft was out when i changed the transmission.
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15 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
check hub/rotor/caliper temps with an infrared thermometer after a highway run.
is the wobble in sync with tire roation - or, 'about' 4 times faster?
if you lightly touch the brakes while wobbling, can you feel pulses in the brake pedal or, does it change the symptom?
did this begine gradually or after some work on the car?
the wobble is in the steering wheel at low speeds as u speed up faster the steering wheel wobbles faster as u get to highway speeds it starts to become a vibration that resonates throgh the body of the car. it has always done this since i got the car. everything ive done has helped it but none of it has gotten it to go away.
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On 3/18/2020 at 3:46 AM, Mitchy said:
As Bennie said, check the rack bushes if you have not. There is not much else up front to fix...
Also, are you 100% certain that it is at the front of the car? Perhaps the driveshaft is wobbling, or there is a loose trans/diff/engine mount.
Good luck
i think its the front. it causes the steering wheel to wobble left and right.
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ive almost replaced everything and dont know what im not seeing. front end has shaked at all speeds since i got it. starts off a slow wobble in the wheel gets faster as i go faster at highway speed is a vibration. ive had 3 sets of tires on the front using different wheels each time balanced each time removed corrosion from hubs and wheels new brakes rotors and calipers new inner and outer tie rods new lower ball joints new/used hubs because original bearings were bad new used axles from friends part car that were knows good when he stopped driving it. only thing i havent replaced in the front end is the shocks the a arm bushings and the steering rack. whats more likely to cause this shake? im getting tired of replacing parts. its a 2001 outback.
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On 3/9/2020 at 7:26 PM, brus brother said:
Just occurred to me... the other day I heard a ticking noise coming from the drivers side with the severe oil leak.
I took out ye old stethoscope and isolated the tick to the driver side valve area.
If all the oil had seeped out of the bottom of the vc while the car sat for a few days, would this account for the ticking on startup that went away after a few minutes?
@sirtoke regarding bottom out removal for driver side, I took a quick look and first thing I would need to do would be to remove the oil soaked engine dust shield. I may end up doing just that to see if my fat arms can swing in from underneath to catch that rear bolt. Digging that far in, I would also have the potential to remove the wheel well shield and gain side access that way. Still trying to assemble the floor jack and appropriate sockets in the event that I need to raise the engine, if I had already detached the vc.
I know I am probably overthinking this but there is an old military adage, the 6 Ps.
Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
if i remember right i think i got all the bolts from the top but the drivers side cover wound not fit out the top because it would not turn enough to clear some stuff so i had to bring it out the bottom.
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i found the fault. it was a screw that had went through the wiring harness behind the passenger headlight when i mounted the ballast for the hid's not sure why it dident trigger a code sooner but after working through everything ive done recently i found the issue
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5 hours ago, moosens said:
I lose any more teeth and I have to move to the Valley.
Sounds like sir toke is on an elder 2.2
no this was on a 2.5 in a 2001 outback passenger side came out the top drivers side came out the bottom with the filler neck removed first
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i figured out how to pull the codes. im guessing it was coincidence the issue happened when it did. im getting 24 26 and 56 for my codes. FL RR and Wrong control module used or faulty G Sensor im guessing a wire broke somewhere? was front left that was leaking
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5 hours ago, lmdew said:
I think the newer 2001 has the sensor inside the hub. The tone ring is on the end of the half shaft so you shouldn't have damaged it. You may have snagged the harness coming down the strut. I'd start there.
i would think if the sensor was dirty the light wouldn't come on until i start moving in this case it comes on prety much instantly once started. i looked under the car and the abs sensor wire is still in tact and does not appear ripped or torn.
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4 hours ago, brus brother said:
low fluid?
long shot: any chance you disconnected battery while working? alternator output?
no we did not disconnect he battery dident think would have needed to.
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i had a banjo bolt washer start leaking so took it off cleaned it up and re assembled only to find i made it worst so i replaced the 2 copper gaskets and fixed the brake fluid leak and bleed the brakes again. pedal is nice and firm feels great but now after fixing the leak the abs light comes on immediately after starting. it flashes off for a small half second them comes back on. what could have happened how can i check the abs codes on the 2001 outback?
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from doing this recently on mine ill say its possible to just pull the covers without moving the engine. all i did was remove the air box on the passenger side and the washer bottle/battery on the drivers side and was able to complete the job. on the drivers side u have to unbolt the oil fill tube from the valve cover or it wont slip out.
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On 3/6/2020 at 6:13 AM, Numbchux said:
False
There's a wire or 2 in the circuit running to the headlight switch so they only work with the low beams on. I've modified this on almost all my cars.
sirtokesalot, if you'd care to enlighten us as to what you're working on, I'll answer your question. I normally will not even respond if I have to ask this.
ive been converting my lights to projector housings and want to use hids in the fogs but dont want the warm up time of hid's when switching back and forth between low and high beam yes the fogs are not yet projectors but i have the parts to do it and just have to actually do the mod. wanted to get the wiring done first. the low beams though are freekin sweet and thankfully because the lows stay on with highs on these cars i was able to use the projectors for both low and high.
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3 hours ago, heartless said:
other than completely rewiring, no
i had thoght about that just build a little fused relayed off the low beams power source and wiring the fogs to that
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is there a way to make the fog lights stay on when the high beams are selected? i dont want them to run without the headlights just want them to not shut off when i switch on brights.
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does anyone know if i can use the 1998 outback radiator in a 2001 outback? my radiator is letting go and the 98 just had a new one put in less than half a year ago.
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3 hours ago, Rampage said:
If only you could program those modules to work the way you want them to.
that woulda been nice. the big issue i had was making the locks work and security arm at the same time. for some reason the cars keyless module wont arm/disarm the security if the locks are being operated at the same time a second issue i had was that remote starting would make the alarm go off but that was easy to remedy compared to the lock thing. i had to make the security think the locks were not being operated for it to arm/disarm while the remote starter did the actual lock controls. in order for this to work thogh required having a keyless module installed due to power locks not working at all unless it was there. thuse 2 keyless modules one being able to see locks but not security and one being able to see security but not locks.
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well i figured out a way to make it happen. i used 2 keyless modules. one keyless module is allowed to see the locking system but not allowed to talk tot he security module the other keyless module is allowed to talk to the security but not the locks. power locks now work and i can arm/disarm the factory alarm using my remote starter fob.
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is it possible to disconnect the power locks from the keyless and have them still work? ive been trying to bypass the power locks so the keyless unit wont see them operating. when i unplug the keyless unit the power locks stop working all together. ive looked at the fsm and tried to unsolder the pins from the keyless for the locking system and bypass them by jumping the inputs to the outputs and still do not get power locks.
the power locks do work if i have my un modified keyless unit installed. the reasoning for this madness is i want to make the factory security work with a remote starter but from what ive gathered it only arms and disarms from the factory fob. so far ive modded my factory fob so i can activate the lock and unlock buttons on it by 12v from relays. if i wire the factory fob into the remote starts lock commands it will run the factory fobs cycle and arm/disarm the securty as well as lock and unlock the doors but theres an issue running it that way. the factory fob wont unlock the doors if ive remote started the car.
round 2 i tried hooking the remote start to control the locks and to activate the factory keyfob at the same time. in this configuration it runs the door locks and the fob at the same time but even though the fob lights up like ti sent the command it will not arm/disarm the security while the door locks are being activated. so this is where i am now i thoght i could make the keyless module just simply not see the lock system by jumping around the keyless but that dident work when i tried to plug the module back in the power locks did not work.
i do have 3 keyless modules so this mod was done on one of the spares.
so my question is what do i have to do to make the power locks function without the keyless module in the mix
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4 hours ago, charles_thomas said:
On my H6 I still occasionally pop this code. I am running with the resistors, and it is not consistent. I suspect there is a second circuit that occasionally requires an input, that I have not found due to its infrequent 'poping' of the code.
Please keep informed what you find. I have most the wires mapped on mine, still haven't found it, ha.
so far havent found much we wired in the reverse lights and speedo today as well as tidied up some of the other wiring. the code comes on currently every 3 starts on his and were not sure if the resistor bank we built is correct.
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3 hours ago, ocei77 said:
yea ive been through alot of what i could find on google. the standard code descriptions are not too helpful here as they are saying what could be wrong with the automatic transmission and in this case there is no automatic transmission in the car. its a manual now.
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well my friend had many things happen today. he found the cam sensor was actually not fully plugged in and when he plugged it in the engine started running great. built a resistor pack to fool the tcu still getting p0866 TCM Communication Circuit High code so far its the only code its spitting out would anyone know what the ecu wants to see from the tcu to not set this code?
still hunting the front end shake and lost as to where to go.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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well i ordered a arm bushings and 2 days later the passenger caliper seized. ended up having to remove it to get home on 3 brakes. guess what happened after taking the caliper of ..... im not gonna make ya guess. the shake virtually disappeared. there is still a light shaking at highway speeds but the obnoxious shake is gone. im guessing the used caliper i put on was sticking lightly for a bit and then decided to stick on completely the other day.