MadMatt

Well, it's not the fuel control module. Still not getting a tach pulse, so I don't know what it is.

I own an '86 GL with no ignition module in the distrubutor, so I would question that.

I'm getting a 7-3 code that I thought was an ignition switch problem. But when I hot-wire it up and hit my trigger switch, the dashboard lights fade and these two relays heat up. Need an education on this item (and it's brother, still in the car).

Yes, exactly the location....thanx for the info.

I'm checking various modules under the dash of my '86 GL and came across this one. What is this? It has no part number stamping or any identifying features.

Thanks to all the info, I think I know what the problem is. At the top of the year, the new fuel pump quit working. I traced it to a nondiscript light blue module bolted to the firewall, underneath the dash. I find out that it's called the 'fuel control module'. I shove a paperclip between the black & blue wires in the connector, and the fuel pump started clicking again. Unfortunately, when I opened the module, the p.c. board fell apart like it was made of dust. So I forgot about it (the car was working). It is obviously affecting the ignition system....Question: Does anybody have a diagram so I could solder up a clone?

Ok, got an update to your question about 12 volts going to the positive post of the coil. I have been using an old analog meter up to this point, but yesterday a friend of mine brought over his new digital meter. AHA! Positive post reading is 11.4, negative post is 0.26 (and no pulse). The yellow 'tach' wire reading is 8.7. There is no reading when measuring from post to post....What would be causing the draw-down of 11.4 and the 8.7 wiring?

Thanks again for the information....Yes, I get 12 volts on my meter from the positive side of the coil. At this time, the only verification that the new distributor works, is that I see it rotate when I crank the car over. There is no pulse coming from the negative side.....Another Question- would the 'air gap' in the distributor be too wide? I just assumed it would be set right at the refurbishing factory.

Thanks for the response....the coil checks out (primary- 1.6 ohm, secondary- 9,750 ohm) the distributor checks out....I'm starting to think it's a problem with one of the four wires attached to the coil. Let me verify, two black wires on the positive post (the 'hot' wire & the one that goes to the distributor) two yellow on the negative post (one that goes to the dist., & tach wire)...Question: could it be a break somewhere in that yellow 'tach' wire? I know that it can't be on the route to the black box, because the box is giving me the correct problem code (7-3). What equipment is on the rest of that wire? Also- is there an Ignition Control Module on this model year?

Got a 1986 GL (EA81) that the engine turns over, but I get no spark. I have checked all the wiring & fuses, replaced the coil & distributor, and patched around the fuel control module (it collapsed 2 months earlier). I also replaced the wire, but still no spark from the coil to the distributor. Everything else works!

Need info on a transmission problem. I can get the car into 4-wheel drive, no problem. But it is extremely hard to get out of it, with a loud clunking sound coming from directly under the gearshift. What is it?

Those 4-light headlights come in pretty handy when one of the lights burn out (usually miles from a replacement)...just switch the wiring to the good ones.

The engine stamping is on the left side of the motor, on the block, below the distributor.

yes, that's right...7 long & 3 short...THANKS for the link, it really helped out!

Got an '86 GL with the ECS box blinking the code 7-3 with the ignition on, but the engine not running...what does the code mean?