warmblood58
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Posts posted by warmblood58
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Any specific sellers that forum members are using?
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Factory part is Unisia JECS. Rockauto sells Airtex Wells brand for $35 which I've read is just a reboxed JECS part.
I've used the made in China EBay knock sensors on quite a few cars and have had no problems from them. Last I bought them I got 4 of them for $8 each.
Thanks Sooberoo! Do you also buy cam and crank sensors too from China? Any particular source for these - Ebay seller, Amazon or other? Thank you again for responding. My knock sensor was really cracked open and corroded which explains the mileage - it still ran pretty good in spite of this
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Hello all, need to replace my knock sensor in my '94 Legacy engine and want to buy a quality replacement but don't wish to spend a fortune (OEm Subaru too expensive). I want to buy a Japanese replacement versus Chinese as my belief is the quality will be better. Can someone please direct me to a reliable online provider? Thanks!
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Hi, I am new to Subaru and have a cracked front timing cover and it appears the rear cover is damaged as well. Do I need to remove the crank pulley/idlers to replace the rear cover so the front covers have something solid to attach to? Thanks!
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fairly straight forward - just remove all the stuff in the way - plug wires, throttle cables, hoses, disconnect CTS wires under manifold and i assume oil pressure sender too under alterantor.
Thanks! I have been reading about removing hard fuel lines and replacing with soft which cleans up things quite a bit, might do this as well
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Hi Forum, I need to remove my complete intake to access coolant manifold on a '94 Legacy ej22, easy? Any special procedure or other required? Thanks!
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Hi, I need to pull my intake today in order to access coolant manifold to swap out. I have not pulled a Subaru intake before, anything I need to know in advance before doing so? Thanks!
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Nope, looks like it has already been reversed so, now going to complete in repairing this orginally bad installation - oh the things we learn . . .
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It appears that I need to find a reverse water manifold setup
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Today, I lost some coolant when a hose rubbed up against a pulley on my Ej22. I have noticed that most of the ej22 conversions show the coolant tank in the original location on the right side of the engine bay. Mine is located badly on the left side rear portion close to the coolant fill tank. My question is now that I need to repair the damaged hose, what do I need to do to relocate my tank to the original location? Generic hose of the right ID or do I reroute original subaru hose? Any suggestions? I also need a good drain and fill/bleed technique for the subaru conversion. Thanks!
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Now I have a high idle after cleaning the throttle body - did I miss something here? I unhooked a few electrical connections - reset the ECU? Its weird because I cannot imagine that I created any air leaks -everything appears to be tight. Even with accelerator cable completely disconnected I have a high idle
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Looks like a twist in the cable created the issue, possibly where a subie cable spliced into vanagon cable? Found the twist and upon untwisting housing, pedal returned to normal and noticed too much tension so I will create a little slack here as suggested -thanks!
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You should also clean the butterfly in the throttle body and lube up all the linkage on the outside of the throttle body..
Cleaned butterfly when I cleaned intake but suppose a quick check and relube a good idea - perhaps it wants to bind with increased engine heat?
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Great suggestions, it only seems to act up when warm/hot outside - when I repair linkage this am I will first check tension and then provide a little slack if it is under constant tension -hopefully this will be the silver bullet -thanks again!
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Many months ago, I serviced the IACV, cleaned MAF and intake etc. What happens now in warm/hot weather is idle will creep up and I can often clear it by blipping accelerator pedal to floor and idle will drop back down - sometimes, if I am not agressive enough in flooring pedal to clear, idle will actually climb higher! Yesterday, weather here in California was 100 degree plus and as a result, engine was idling up to over 2,000! Yesterday, I floored pedal hard to clear and engine rpm's shot way up to almost redline and I shut down engine immediately. What happened is accelerator linkage slid off it's pivot (this is a vanagon conversion) I was able to drive home with a droopy accelerator pedal that allowed me to get vehicle up to speed but that was it. Interestingly and this is where my curiousity kicks in,with the extra slack in accelerator cable due to sloppy linkage, van idle never climbed in spite of hot weather! How could this be? What is different about cable under tension vs slack that would create this? This is a OB-1 engine and I have been assuming that idle is controlled by ECU. Engine does not overheat, fan kicks in on hot days, etc. Any ideas EJ22 experts? My IACV is clean, in fact, it was quite clean when I pulled it. it is the old style IACV. Thanks Forum!
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Situation seems to have leveled out somewhat, I can blip the throttle and generally clear this problem so I am guessing that this problem indicates a sticky IACV that acts up when hot? Anyone?
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Thanks, this engine is a transplant into a vanagon but I was not getting enough feedback in that forum so I appealed to this forum for more specific engine advice. No CEL installed at this time unfortunately -
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Hello all, my '91 legacy engine has an intermittant high idle and wanted to see what the Forum thought with suggestions: A few facts -
MAF, IACV, PCV all cleaned - IACV was very much the first gen style, not dirty at all but cleaned anyway
I reset ECU which seemed to work but, weather was cooler so hard to tell
Idle situation seems to happen on a warmer day, idle can climb as high as 1800rpms, fan kicks in although engine temp gauge normal
I was able to clear idle the other day by blipping throttle where it did drop down
No air leaks evident and this high idle seems very intermittant, it starts to climb on a warmer day in traffic and usually will not clear by blipping throttle
I wonder if IACV has enough play to bind from time to time which increase when engine/ambient temps are warmer?
Any thoughts? Suggestions?
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Hmmm . . . high idle back again -seems to be activated by higher temps outside even though temp gauge normal. Resetting ECU seemed to help but weather was cooler at the time. I did notice yesterday I was able to drop idle blipping accelerator so perhaps sticking IACV afterall - I did clean mine though it is definitely a early style IACV-maybe just worn perhaps???? Any thoughts? Oh, I notice that my high spped fan is also kicking in although temp gauge is not reading anywhere near hot hot . . . another mystery -Help!
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Hmmm . . I think I solved problem. I had pulled air intake, and pulled MAF to clean along with IACV and upon doing research, I discovered that I needed to reset ECU so disconnected Neg battery cable for 45 minutes and then started van up without touching throttle and let it idle for 15 minutes and turned off. A few hours later I took it for a good drive - high idle gone! For now anyway . . . we shall see
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Any additional thoughts anyone?
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I had a similar issue on the 93 turbo wagon I bought a few years ago with a blown up front diff. Check the throttle cable and make sure it has enough slack. The issue on mine was the idle set screw that isn't supposed to be messed with, was at some point. It was just enough to cause the idle switch to open and the ECM saw it was off idle. It would only go back down to 2000-ish RPMs even if I blipped the throttle. Not sure why it works like that but all I had to do was back the screw off a tiny bit until the switch closed (must use a multi-meter to check). I dont recall which two wires it is.
So, did you mean to say that even blipping the throttle would not reduce idle? I wonder how cable tension could have tightened if I did not touch it?
the suby-sense strikes again! (check your injector O-rings)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I have a '94 Legacy engine with black top injectors and have the intake out. Should I pull the rails and replace the O-rings while the intake is out? I loosened the rail bolts a little today to see if the bolts were seized (the were not) Any harm in doing this? The injectors sound like a PITA to remove!