subpennyman

I don't know if it is the EGR valve- the lines are kind of small for an EGR valve- 1/4 diameter max- but what ever it is it is clicking when the key is on- you can hear it and feel it. 1 line comes out the top and runs over to a canister in the front left corner of the engine compartment (viewed as facing the engine). The other line comes out the back (with electrical solenoig in the middle) and "t"s into the block intake manifold and continues on to another canister at the left rear of the engine compartment and then a hose coming out of that canister and running across the firewall to the other side somewhere. Sub.

.12 ohms on the upper pair and 4.4k ohms on the lower pair.

Let me run some extension cords and take my digital 60 cycle DVM out and get some good #'s- Stand by. Sub.

I am unable to get good readings on my hand held VOM. The X1 scale cannot be adjusted for zero ohms with the leads shorted! My x100 scale works ok and I get 4400 on one coil pair and a short on the other pair. Harness is removed. Sub

Light problem fixed. ID 10 T error. It was the switch-operator error. Injector problem: (1 Wire bundle - 4 wires 4 pins.) One set has higher resistance than the other. Note: red light on ECU is flashing 5 rapid flashes. I couldn't find the test connectors mentioned in the '92 series repair manual. Not sure if the '93 has the same configuration. Not sure if this helps, but there is a two wire device with vacuum lines running to it- it was clicking about every 1.5 seconds- has a black round cap(?) that can be rotated- on left side of engine on top of intake manifold just to the right of the front left cylinder. BTW- the wiring diagram we have been working with is for a Legacy-we have a Loyale. Sub and son

Reading 5 volts on 2 pair of wires in the harness going to the single injector. The resistance on the injector- dont have precise readings but assuming there should be 2 coils of resistance to match the harness wiring- one coil has a higher reading than the other. Havent had time to look at the light issue- in fact laights dont matter if the car doesnt move!? Sub

I have a multimeter and know how to use it. Just let me know what pins to check and what resistance should I be looking for? I also found a '92 subaru manual. It talks about performing various checks (U-check,read memory, and D-check) using test mode and read memory plugs coinciding with flashing of check engine and O2 light. Going to run the tests now. Be back shortly Thanks Sub

I can hear the pump run and have loosened the clamp on the fuel line at the Injector- Fuel squirts out!

The engine will start and run for about 2-3 seconds- If raw gas is poured down the throat of the carb, it will stay running unti my small can of fuel is used up.

Can you post the diagram that you have or email it to me at scottyd9@nventure.com. I appreciate your help.

Does anyone have a link to a schematic/wiring diagram for a 1993 Loyale 4door Wagon- manual transmission? I need some help! Fuel is not getting delivered through the Injector! I also have an issue with my parking lights not turning off and I cannot find the connector to plug the Code Reader into! So a wiring diagram would go a long ways towards helping me. thanks. sub

Things are Still Broken!!! I have left the Battery disconnected for 14 hours and checked the wires to the MAF Sensor- ok. Car starts and then dies- pouring raw gas don the carb throat will keep it running! Sub.

Miles Fox- Thanks, I should be able to find that in the rainy daylight. Can you tell me where the computer connector is located for reading the "engine" codes?

Miles Fox...Thanks- I had no idea that such an animal even existed! Could I get a little more help on its location-though? I know where the carb and the duct work that runs over to the passenger side of the car and the air filter are located- is it on this duct work somewhere? Is it a vacuum or electrical device? I'll check it out when the sun comes up out here in Tacoma, WA. Thanks again- Sub.

I haven't done any work under the hood in 14 years, so no to the loose clamps, I'll look for hoses that may have come off- but what is a MAF and where is it located and what does it do? Thanks people, Sub.

No, I haven't mentioned the fuel filter; I haven't replaced it and didn't think that it could be causing the problem because of how the engine started to run almost flawlessly after I did a voltage check with an analog voltmeter on all 4 pins at the harness connecting to the fuel injector. I will consider replacing the fuel filter when stores reopen tomorrow. I must admit that I have never heard of disconnecting the battery for an hour to allow the computer to relearn the car-I'll go try that right now; and then I'll ponder some more the ramifications of performing voltage checks :could this in some way have discharged a capacitance or reactance charge buildup and allow things to operate normally? Would you know where the connector is locatred on the car for plugging in the computer for running diagnostics checks for an "On engine light"

My 93 Loyale has several problems-but the killer is- it starts and then dies! If I pour straight gas down the throat of the carb, it will stay running until my small supply of gas is used up! I have fuel pressure getting to the Injector because when I went to remove the clamp, fuel started easing out and as I pulled the line back further, it started to stream out! I disconnected the 4 pin connector at the injector body and attempted to take voltage measurements- 2 pins had approx 6 volts dc. Not knowing what specifically to do with the information or where to go from here, I decided to put everything back together and go inside and think about it! But before I closed the hood, I tried to start it one last time- the thing started and stayed running! It was very rough- and thats when I realized I had never tuned it up since we bought it new-it has 155,000 on it. Well, I tuned it, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter (it was plugged pretty good)! Now I am back to my original problem! It starts and then dies! I am looking for any help you can offer- I have access to one of those computer analyzers- but I cant find the mating connector on where to plug it in to! The dealer says its under the dash- drivers side- but we are not finding it.