[Colored bumpers]

93 Loyale - all black bumper

[grounding...]

If you have doubts about your grounding, set ohm meter on 1x or 10x scale. Place probes across suspect connection e.g. car frame and engine block. If reading is over 1 ohm it's time to work on grounding.

[OK. So I got a problem. Not real big, but not sure what it is.]

Sticking thermostat. Also probably needs a tune up but first I'd check for any small fuel leaks then pull the DTCs.

[EA82, '88 DL Wagon, & highway performance]

My EA82 with SPFI does a little better than your carbed engine. But with good timing belts and hitting high revs without a second thought, I get to everywhere I'm goin' on time.

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Hoozie----I scanned the thread you provided and it does appear the MAF may be involved as some of the engine's behavior looks like hot wire failure.

We'll Know if timing is a factor if the engine responds favorably to adjustment with the green connectors connected.

 

Hey Sub----Slow but sure we're getting all the bugs out. She's goin' to be good for another 100,000!

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub---Wait a minute. Did you do the dist adjustment with the green connectors connected?

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub----Were you able to effect it any by shifting the distributor?

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Hoozie----I just noticed your only 22. By your mature presentations, I'd never would've guessed!

 

Sub wasn't getting e-mail notifications as I wasn't last week but now hopefully that problem is fixed.:-\

Hey Sub----After resetting the ignition timing I'd run the D-mode diagnostic.

For those who don't have it, here is my version:

 

1. After engine's all warmed up, turn it off.

2. Connect D-mode connectors (green).

3. Start engine and note trouble codes on LED of ECU. There should be

none if codes were cleared.

4. Drive car for approximately 1 minute with engine RPMs around 2000.

5. Then check LED for stored trouble codes.

6. Turn off engine. Disconnect connectors.

 

Let us know what codes you get.

roy

[Darn GL-10]

Hey HTi-----Just a thought. Is there gas in the tank. Last week I helped a guy with similar symptoms. Turned out empty tank.

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub-----Check back at post #25 for info on distributor timing. Also the "dark colored" connectors are white on your model soob, next to the green connectors.

When you previously posted you had a manual, I thought you meant a factory service manual. Therefore I thought you had access to alot of the info you needed. But as you've seen, there are alot of great guys and me willing to "work" on your car with you. ---Did anybody bring beer?---

[Darn GL-10]

Hey Hti

 

If your positive the belt timing is correct then consider a defective distributor cap. There also seems to be a fuel problem. Does the engine even get a chance to run 2 minutes before dying?

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

If the starter passes Skip's battery to starter jumper test then I would temporarily bypass the neutral safety switch to see if you get consistent starts.

With the shifter in neutral of course.

Talkin about timing belts made me realize I have no record of mine ever being checked. 123,000 mi. I'm going to check them now.

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Glen----

Do you think Sub reset that timing, cleaned the solenoid, and checked the fusible link and now is burning up the highway on a test run to Alaska? If so, he should be there shortly. Let him use your PC to post the good news---or bad news.

[Why do people hate Loyales?]

As I posted prviously, since Loyale owners are too happy with too little for too long, the asking price for good running Loyales is often around $3000.

[Why do people hate Loyales?]

Car owners in general dislike Soob owners 'cause they can be so happy with so little.

 

And everyone hates Loyale owners 'cause they're too happy with too little for too long.

--------------------------

93 Loyale sedan

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub-----

By timing, I didn't mean timing belt. If that's a problem we'll make it #12.

To check the timing with the connectors disconnected wouldn't mean much since the ECU would keep changing the timing to suit the situation. By connecting the TEST connectors you should be able to set it square at 20*. First try nudging the distributor a few degrees clockwise and if necessary a few degrees counterclockwise to allow the engine to start and stay running. Then perfect it with the light.

roy

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub------

We haven't even solved problem #4 and you're givin' us problems 5,6,7,8,9,and 10! I have to wonder: Is the timing causing these codes or are the codes causing bad timing? I guess we'll know when you hook the timing light to her.

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

To Roy:

 

You have a very good recollection. Al is the one that also worked on the CEL problem. As far as I know, a problem with the CEL circuit will not cause a problem with the LED of the ECU but I can't really confirm that. They are seperate circuits I believe. It may be a good science project to remove the CEL bulb and see if anything happens to the LED when that is done.

Hey Glen-----

Being too cold out to work on cars gave me time to think. Sub has already done the science project. He's pulling codes off the LED while his CEL has either a burnt bulb or circuit problem. So the CEL does not have to work to get codes from the LED.

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

That code clearing proceedure is for a

Gen I Legacy not Loyale

 

The USRM has the code clear method you need.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44

 

or here

http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

 

Both methods do say to start the car with the two pair connected though.

Yours should be white and green not black and green I believe.

By the drivers side hood hinge under the hood.

 

Note codes will not clear if the problem still exists.

Skip-----I have no idea why but when the quick methods you've cited failed to clear my codes after repair, Al's method worked on my Loyale.

roy

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub----I always wanted to know what would happen if I left those connectors connected. Before I forget--My apologies to your wife for us helping you fix her car. I'm sure she'd rather get another one!

Well, patience is a virtue. I think there's 13 things wrong with the car and we're only on #4.

It might be that with the green connectors connected, the timing is manually controlled. Retiming it should keep it running and hopefully have it run stronger when the connectors are apart.

 

Hey Hoozie---I'm glad that worked for you. The last time I used a breaker bar, the breaker bar broke. It was my brother-in-laws. Crap!

roy

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub----Instead of following the proper procedure for erasing the DTCs, at this point of the game, I'd just remove the battery cable for ten minutes, erasing everything, and start fresh.

 

Hey Glen----I might give that science project a whirl. But not now. The temp out there is 5` .

roy

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

Hey Sub, My theory on why the car died on the freeway is this:

When the O2 sensor started to fail, it started sending wacky data to the ECU. The ECU couldn't "see" it as wacky so it stores wacky compensation values and give the engine more gas. More gas makes the O2 sensor send even wackier data. Eventually the engine could't take it and died.

With the O2 sensor disconnected, the ECU "sees" this and operates in the limp-in mode. And as you've noticed, it's limping around pretty good.

As for replacing the O2 sensor, I bet it isn't easy. They make a special tool just for this. I don't know if an offset boxend would work. I'll bet it's important though not to put stress on any part except the nut. I imagine someone has posted their experience with it somewhere on this board.

I like that oven cleaner idea-----pretty inventive!

 

Hey Glen, If I remember Al Savage correctly, the LED won't flash codes when the CEL is inoperative. Maybe Sub's ECU is toggling around with that situation. So the ECU might pass the test but still be having the problem that you have much more experience with.

roy

[93 Loyale still inop.]

This thread continues at:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28753

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

I would try to find out why there is no vacuum first. There must be a blockage somewhere it seems to me.

The vacuum control on SPFI pressure regulators operates differently than the control on MPFI. That's why a vacuum reading almost zero can be normal.

I'm not sure if I'll post again on this board as I don't like having my post deleted without being given a reason.

Again Glen, thanks for the info on fuel injector ohms.

[93 Loyale SPFI Grief !!!!!!!!!!!]

I think it would help if the ECU could give us some codes on the problem. Probably any question is already answered on this message board. I suggest a search of- white memory connector -. After you pull the codes, then clear the codes. Try starting the Loyale again then read the codes again.