grandam88

I understand what yall are saying about the IAC. The issue happens when coming off the line at redlights and such. When I am already out of idle range and into the 3000 rpm range. TPMS is new and adjusted per fsm with dmm. What role does the IAC play outside of idle? I have had minimal idle issues, at one time I had hot start issues but it went away after changing spark plugs.

Negative on the vaccum leaks, have checked over and again for them and idle is fine. Although high on start up, once warm it is fine. I have checked the IAC in the past and It has checked out fine and has been cleaned by me with throttle body removed. All wiring seems to be fine, but for peace of mind I will make this one of the first things I check via the fsm.

1987 subaru gl spfi Time to get the old subie back out on the road, I quit driving it because it had issues with stalling. It would drive fine on the freeway but once I got to a drive through window or a redlight and went to take off it would lose power and die. I have tried a lot of thing with no success. I have replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, and wires and rotor and dist cap have all been replaced recently. I also replaced cts, tpms, cleaned throttle body and replaced air filter. I am getting a bonus check so its time to put some parts on this think and enjoy great gas mileage again. I am wanting to do a full tune up with ngk plugs and wires. Replace the cap, rotor and coil. Replace the oil pump seals and possibly check the timing. Also replace the injector. I think the injector may have some issues with leaking or something of the nature causing it to flood when driving slower. I have found one one rock auto but want to see if it will actually fit becuase rock auto seems to not know what parts fir these old subies half the time. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=928730&cc=1268478&jnid=661&jpid=3 I cannot see the connector on it, but i can solder the old one to it if need be.

Thanks for the advice. I will probably end up putting up with the check engine light for a while until I can get to a junk yard in the area.

I have read your posts about it, I have also read a webpage about it also. I believe it was your, not sure. Do you know what years and models I should be looking at for the solenoids?

I have posted a few times about some issues with my EA82 SPFI Gl Wagon. I have been chasing these issues for a few months now, tried different fuel pump etc. During these posts, I brought up the fuel pick up screen. I have been told multiple times its built into the fuel pump (there is one on the pump inlet), and cannot be replaced separate from the pump. After reviewing the FSM, the diagram in the manual suggests there IS a screen in the tank. I do not want to drop the tank chasing a non existent screen. I am hoping someone here has dropped the tank on am spfi ea82 and can confirm whether the screen exists or not. I am assuming if it does exist, it probably never been changed. I have had issues with my car stalling after idling at redlights and drive throughs. Fuel pump will start to wine and engine will have major power loss. If you baby the gas pedal for a few seconds, it will come back and run fine. Sometimes, it will actually stall out, but will start right back up without issue and drive fine. One time only did it stall and refuse to start again for about five minutes. I am changing out the CTS today, but finding out if there is a 28 year old filthy fuel pick up screen in my tank would be helpful. Thanks

1987 Ea82 Spfi GL Wagon. I like most people who own an EA82 have the failed Solenoids. I also have the codes to go with it. I have disconnected the solenoids, but I yet to have replaced them with new ones or resistors. I know these solenoids have a function and after reviewing diagrams in the FSM, it seems at least the Canister Purge Solenoid can effect the operation of the fuel system. I am aware you can just bypass the EGR with little side affects. What should I do with the hoses connected to the canister solenoid once i replace it with a resistor? It seems the gas fumes are returned to the fuel tank after being put through some sort of separator.

http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf Ea82 FSM

I have checked for vacuum leaks by spraying around all the hoses and fittings. Everything seems to check out. As far as the CTS is concerned, I have noticed there are not only three different sensors, but there is also something called an air charge sensor on rockauto. I am aware of the different one in reference to the fan, gauge, and one related to the ECU measuring the coolant temperature. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=39891&cc=1268467&jnid=700&jpid=0 It appears to look identical to the one on my car. I have also seen other forum members reference to using this sensor to replace the cts.

Thanks I75eya, I did just that after my last post. I was having issues with even keeping the engine running and figured I would just revert to the oem pump. All the issues associated with the new pump are gone. Engine idles fine, has good power through all gears, but my old issues returned. Fortunately I can live with that for now. Not sure what the new pump had going on, but even my voltage is back up above 12 again. Seems the new pump was defective somehow. Anyhow, the issues that returned are slight hesitation on a cold start through second gear. Goes away once warmed up. Secondly, when driving in town only, (extended stop times at lights and traffic or stopping off at a store), It will take off and have good power all the way through second gear, once I hit third, sometimes it start jerking and acting like it lost all power. Sometimes it even dies. This only occurs during in town driving. If I let off the gas, sometimes it goes away. If it does stall out, it restarts just fine. There was one or two times a few months ago where the car did just this and would not start back up for probably 10 minutes of sitting. After which it ran like a top all the way home. Seems odd to me. Today I cleaned the MAF. I have a 35 code which I have had for a long time. Sometimes it is accompanied by a 34 code. Both of those solenoids are stuck open and I even plugged the EGR valve hose and disconnected it from the solenoid, also I plugged the hose on the other side of that solenoid, which goes to the throttle body. I cant seem to see why I need to fix this issue aside from the engine code. To give a little history, I have had some issues with high idle when cold. I chalk it up to the IAC. Cleaning it has improved some idle issues in the past, unplugging it connector when engine is cold causes it to die, which means its working in some sense. I have also replaced the TPS sensor and adjusted it according to the FSM. This improved some issues with hesitation and with the rpms when coasting in gear, I am thinking some of my issues are related to the CTS but haven't had time to actually pull it off and test it. I have tested it on the car and it seemed to be in range, but it is hard to judge when you dont know the temperature of the engine coolant. I appreciate all the help I have received thus far.

So is it a possibility that my issue is the bigger pump on the smaller wiring? I have done a little research and found that this pump should only be drawing about 6 amps max. My guess based on my memory is the wiring is about 14 gauge to 16 gauge. A quick check of a 12 volt wire gauge table says at 6 amps, I need only 18 gauge wire at lengths up to 20 ft. Also, calculating voltage drop at 13.5 volts and the ballpark wire length of about 15 ft drawing 6 amps, voltage drop is .3 volts which is 2.7%. This should not be an issue. I am willing to change out the wire eventually but do not feel it is actually an issue at this point. Is there a possibility there is an issue with the fuel regulator? What if I bought a faulty fuel pump?

Alright, I replaced the inlet fitting out for one that is 1/2 inch, which is bigger than oem. I also double checked the inlet hose, no kinks and is a straight shot to the fuel pump and running slightly downhill. I bought a new fuel filter, but upon taking the old one off, I found no evidence of dirty fuel and also blew through the old one and it was like new. zero resistance. I am having doubts the fuel filter is a culprit. To answer a previous question, the fuel pump is essentially mounted in the oem location. Only thing that really changed is that i had to add a 180 degree turn with steel fuel hose to return from the pump to the oem steel fuel line. This is on the outlet side, which means I doubt it causing any issues. I am at a loss for what I should do next, the old fuel filter is only about 5 months old and clean based on my tests. I get paid once a month and money is super tight right now. So its hard to dive into teeing in a pressure gauge on the fuel line. As far as the wiring issue to the pump, maybe I am wrong, but in my mind if the voltage and wiring was sufficient for the old pump, why would it be for the new one? Albeit, the new one is a much higher psi and gpm pump, I would assume the wiring should support the pump.

Not carbed, its an spfi ea82. I understand what your saying, I didn't thing the gravity feed would be this sensitive to change as far as line size and routing of the inlet hose. What I plan on doing to start is re do the inlet hose and put the larger fitting on the inlet side of the pump. This is probably the main issue. I have worked primarily on newer vehicles with in tank pumps, so I am not used to this situation. The voltage gauge has been acting fine for a few days now, well see what happens. Prior to this though, the gauge would just bottom out like it was not working. I had no signs of low voltage when driving. I will work on it on my next day off and report back. Thanks

Forgot to add, after installation new pump, I am having issue where the voltage gauge appears to be working off and on. Not an issue I had before the fuel pump install.

1987 gl 2 wd ea82 engine. Had some issues with stalling when I have extended idle time and or red lights (driving in town). Also had issues with it stuttering from 700-2500 rpm after a cold start. Issue went away after it warmed up. Fuel pump was also getting noisy after extended idle time. With the said issues, car still ran great at highway speeds and got 30-33 mpg. Fast forward to this week, I decided the prior mentioned issues may be a weak and or clogged fuel pump. So i went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with an externally mounted 1987 ford ranger inline pump. The specs exceed the oem pump and delivers more volume and pressure 70-90 psi. I had some issues fitting the pump with the different hose diameters and pump is longer and bigger in diameter. After all was said and done, I installed the pump having to reduce the larger fuel line from the tank to around 3/8 when it got to the pump fitting. Also, i had to use some 3/8 stainless fuel line after to pump to get back to the oem fuel line from the pump. After all this, car runs. Problem is, it loses power at around 2500 rpm starting. The loss of power is more extreme in a higher gear, leaving it hard to get up hills and accelerate above 55 mph. Once car has warmed, the engine likes to die after idling for about a minute. Car restarts just fine and repeats this issue. None of these new symptoms existed prior to changing the fuel pump. The hesitation on cold starts appears to have gone away and been replaced by the loss of power at higher rpms. The new pump is obviously operating at a much higher rpm, maybe the fuel pressure is not being regulated properly? Also, when installing the new pump, i had to bend around some of the 28 year old metal fuel lines under the car. Maybe I cracked one and now I am pulling in air? Is it possible my fuel filter has clogged? Could the new pump be bad? (it is very noisy, but this pump is known for it. ) The pump strangely makes different pitched noise when car is idling. looking for opinions, thanks

Out of curiosity ihscout54 . How did you go about mounting the aftermarket pump? My pump came with what seemed like a 1/2" fitting and a 3/8 fitting for the inlet. I used the smaller of the two and made a small adapter for it. Effectively decreasing the inlet hose size for about an inch. I also had issue with the inlet hose wanting to kink as my new pump could not utilize the stock mounting location and i had the make a 90 degree turn. I then had the make a 180 degree turn with some stainless steel fuel line on the outlet side to make it back to the outlet hose. It was a pain and the pump is now just being held up by the stock mounting plate. The new pump is so loud I can hear it outside the vehicle and I am losing power at 2800 rpm and up. I have a hard time on hills, and also with getting the car over 55 mph now. This issue is new with the fuel pump, and also my voltage meter is now only working when it wants and the car stalls at idle when warm now, Albeit, the original condition which is stuttering st lower rpms when cold has gone away. My only guess is there is a restriction in the line when under a load. Either because of the smaller inlet size at the pump fitting, or under a load the line is collapsing at the area where it was wanting to kink during installation. Last guess it a crack in the oem stainless fuel line that is 29 years old. I had to move it around quit a bit to make the longer pump fit. The above guesses do not address the voltage gauge issue. This only started during the install of the new pump. I touched no wiring under the hood during that time. Maybe the pump is struggling, causing a load, on a weak alternator? I am kind of at a loss of remedies and just guessing.

thanks for the reply, yes I understand I could have looked. I work hours that make it difficult to look under the car during the day, figures it was worth a shot to ask someone that already has been under there. Anyhow, I am aware of the strainer issue. New pump does not have one built in. I thought about using one of those clear ones from autozone. The one you can take apart and clean, generally made for carbed vehicles. This way I can see how clean or dirty the gas is.

I have been having some problems with a whining fuel pump for some time now. 1987 Subaru GL SPFI. Generally, car runs good during my 35 mile commute to work each day. No whining from the fuel pump. It is when the car has to idle or be stopped at lights, the fuel pump starts whining. I am addressing this issue with a new fuel pump. My new pump is a inline pump designed for a 1987 Ford Ranger, capable if delivering up to 90 PSI. Main reason for my post is this pump comes with two different size hose fittings. One is quite large at probably 1/2 inch, other size is probably 3/8" ID. Before I go to breaking things under the car trying to replace this pump, I would like to see if anyone knows what size line is going in and out of the oem pump. Last thing I want to do is mess things up on my daily driver and find out my fitting are not even the right size. Thanks

The link did attach, and I appreciate it. Part number is e2000, which is not an in tank pump. It is actually an inline pump, which is why i was confused. Most in tank pumps are designed to fit onto a fuel pump assembly. Also, here is a link to the part your referencing. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=59606&jnid=2&jpid=1 Also, I found out you cannot change the strainer, as it is attached to the oem pump, which means when you change over to this ford pump, you lose your strainer. I appreciate all the help and will probably be changing out the fuel pump here soon, I am sure my strainer is clogging up.

Also, I had the same issue as when I first posted this thread again yesterday. Except I couldn't get the car to start again for about ten minutes. It wouldn't stay running, and when it did run for a short time, idle was real low and acted like it didn't have gas. Like I unplugged the fuel pump. It only happens when the car has been sitting running, like at a red light or drive thru. I can always tell when it's about to happen because the fuel pump starts whining. I'm leaning towards fuel strainer being clogged with debris, but I cannot wrap my head around why it only does it when it's basically idling. I have checked the gas cap theory, gas cap is fine. I have tested the cts. It checked out good at two different temperatures. I went ahead and replaced the o2 sensor and again cleaned the idle air control valve. Does anybody know where to get a fuel strainer?

Can you post a link or part number for the pump you used? Its my understanding that we have an external pump with two hoses, one in, one out. The pumps I looked at for the year model you posted about brings up in tank pumps. I don't see how I would use an in tank pump where the oem one mounts.

Can you elaborate more on what fuel pump you used? Mine is a 1987 and has the fuel pump under the car near the passenger rear door. I have heard others used a ford ranger pump, but the psi on the said pump is significantly higher. I think around 90 psi. I think my manual calls for around 40-70 psi.

Are you referring to the engine code memory and test connectors? If so, mine are under the hood by the fuel filter and strut tower. 2 prong, no locking tab. I will be checking the switches on my next day off, after that I will check the switch wires if need be. I am suspecting the clutch switch.

I have tested the CTS per the FSM, It seemed to check out good. Considering how cheap they can be, I might go ahead and replace it. I do have an o2 sensor on my gl. At the y pipe, along with a nice exhaust leak, luckily after the o2 sensor. I have a new o2 sensor sitting around, might as well change it out. I am aware of the way low idle affects alternator output, my battery also seems to be working just fine. I think I am just used to driving a vehicle that put out enough juice to not skip a beat under a higher electrical load. My low idle is a culprit alternator voltage at idle. I have also done the seafoam thing already. Did a can and a half so far in the tank, then half a can in the oil. Followed by an oil change with 10w30. I have checked for vacuum leaks by spraying with carb cleaner all around the rubber hoses and gaskets on the engine. No vacuum leaks to be found, although I feel a vacuum leak of that magnitude would affect the the ac system also given the vents and such run off vacuum. Also, I have noticed the wiring for the charging system seems dinky. The only battery ground to chassis is going to the engine block. On top of that, the wiring to the alternator seems very small for carrying 60 amps. I am thinking I am going to upgrade the charging system wiring to all 8 gauge, and add a wire from the negative on the battery to the chassis. You would be surprised the difference that could make.

I would asses the condition of the cone washers and spring washers while your in there. Bad cone washers lead to hub and or bearing failure. Those hubs are pretty expensive.