Soulraiser

Well I plan on getting another vehicle to get around while I am doing the modifications so I wont worry too much about time, and I've got a buddy that will do any major welding I may need in exchange for beer, so i don't have to worry there either. After doing a bit more research I'm liking the EJ22T idea and seeing as the vehicle did sit since 2006 in Louisiana weather, the brake components all pretty much need replacing anyways, as does most of the suspension components. Of course, I'll be replacing and upgrading those prior to doing the swap anyways.

Anyone have any idea how to bypass it temporarily until my new temp sensor gets here? Nobody around me can get one for 3 days and I've gotta drive the thing, overheats after about 20 minutes..

Got the idle issue fixed and have been test driving it...It keeps back firing but the timing and everything doesn't SEEM to be the issue, I solved the dieseling problem as well. Could the exhaust be causing the back-firing? I've never really messed with exhausts. -Was definitely the exhaust, looks like someone had replaced the gasket at the manifold and stripped out the bolt...Going to figure this out tomorrow when I do the clutch and shifter linkage.

Okay, so I have my 1986 BRAT, and have just put a weber on it and all that good stuff, I have another thread going with all of that so I'll leave it there. I am planning, in the future, hopefully near rather than far, to make this thing a little bit faster..I mean, who wouldn't want to smoke a newer charger or mustang with a Brat? Anyways, I'm thinking something a little faster than an EJ22, if it is possible. Would a 2.5l out of an STI be able to fit without extensive modifications? Cost aside (just gathering info), what would be the best way to get a brat to around 300hp while still keeping 4wd or at least AWD? Naturally I plan to swap the 4 speed transmission as well. This will be my first engine swap to something not meant to be in the vehicle, I've done it in the past with Pontiacs, Lincolns, and Chevy's, however they were all in all, replacements not "swaps". So what would be ideal here? I would like to keep the stock look as much as possible.

<p>Okay, so I don't have access to a timing light and don't have the money to buy one, I was attempting to set it by listening to the idle but it wasn't really working out. After I did the plugs and wires and installed a good working fuel pressure regulator and replaced both fuel filters; the idle is extremely high. I also replaced the throttle cable, and while I had the old one off I realized even when the throttle was "closed" as much as the lever would move forward, it was still about 3/4" away from the idle adjustment screw. I never touched the idle screw during installation. Any ideas aside from timing or is that basically what that is telling me I need to adjust? I also think I am having a little linkage binding, so I went ahead and loosened the nut to where it wasn't even touching, and it still wont go all the way back...maybe a stronger return spring? I'll play with it a bit more tomorrow.</p>

Thanks bud, I went ahead and bookmarked both of them for future reference.

Today I replaced both fuel filters and installed a new pressure regulator which has everything working well. I need to get a timing light to check/set the timing, but as of now it does idle perfectly at 700 RPM. Unfortunately the spark plug wires were so old when I was replacing the plugs I ripped one out, so I am waiting on new plug wires via Ebay since absolutely no auto parts store was willing or able to get them for me. My last assumption to what a problem could be, drawn by the fact that it did backfire 2-3 times when I first drove it, is that the exhaust may be clogged up. It looks like it's just the headers into a Y-pipe then it has 2 1/4" pipe back to the muffler. As far as parts go, currently I need to get my hands on, or make, some shifter bushings. The engine itself is running strong so I don't believe it's the engine causing any issues. Fresh engine oil and trans oil.

As I was taking the video I realized that it sounded the exact same as a transmission not all the way in gear, un-did the 4wd shifter linkage, shoved it up manually via screwdriver in bolt hole; and I now seem to have fwd working like a charm. Though, I still can't get it over 25-30mph for some odd reason...I'm going to change out my spark plugs and I think the fuel pressure regulator I have is bad, no money for a holley so I have to keep swapping the Mr. Gasket ones until one works properly.

Kind of sounds like nails on a chalk board when I put it in fwd and try to lift off of the clutch. I got the new weber on it and it idles and sounds beautiful, just trying to find out what all vacuum hoses I can rip out, but for now I just have them all plugged off and about half of the obvious ones gone. The main issue as of now is the fact that I'm stuck in 4 low and maxed out at 30mph. When I'm in 4 low it moves great, no abnormal sounds, hell, I even took it through my drive-way, which everything gets stuck in, and it went through it without even a slip, so I don't think it's an axle/hub issue. I'll upload a video tomorrow if I remember after I get off work, of exactly what it does and when/how it does it.

Interesting, not very useful down here in Louisiana, as we lack any sort of hills, so I wont worry about it too much for now. Any idea about the 4WD? The transmission screams at me when I put it in FWD or 4 high, but the "lo" light turns off on the dash, and it wont actually move. Point being, all I can do is get it moving in 4 low...any ideas? Could the transmission itself need repaired?

Thanks guys, will be ordering a 32/36 with adapter plate from "webercarbsdirect" via Ebay on Thursday and will do my swap then. I also realized I have a broken cable that I am unsure of what it goes to, or rather what activates it.. It seems to be broken directly under the brake booster and it looks like it goes to the top of the transmission; I also have an issue where if I put it in FWD, or rather, any gear aside from 4-low, the transmission screams as soon as I let off of the clutch at all...could that cable be related? Thanks again guys.

I'm sure it's been answered multiple times, but searching isn't coming up with any solid results for me..maybe lack of keyword ideas... Anyways, I have an '86 Brat, body in great shape aside from a few bent pieces of chrome, and it wasn't running when I got it. I managed to put in a manual switch for my fuel pump for temporary use. After running for a small amount of time, anytime I would hit the gas, it would stall, so going back under the hood I found all vacuum lines good to go, but my carb gaskets(literally all of them) were leaking fuel, or sucking air. I went ahead and took the carb off..(how do I identify if it's the carter or hitachi?) and began to rip it apart with my rebuild kit sitting next to me. After getting to the fuel bowl (more than halfway full of sludge) I realized my rebuild kit was missing a few gaskets and decided it would probably be best to just get a weber and save myself the stress. Now, my concern is purely with the intake manifold, and if it will be suitable for a weber carb. It is an EA81; Do I have no choice but to try and find an ea82 intake? I've been having and extremely absurd amount of trouble finding any sort of spare parts for this thing in the entire state of Louisiana, closest I've been able to find what could be a donor vehicle was in Houston, and that's a good 7-8 hour drive, which I don't have the ability to make due to my days off never being together. Junkyards here seem to be a bust as well. If anyone has any input they could provide, I'd be more than grateful. Thank you.

Same, I'm in Baton Rouge and looking to find parts for my '86 BRAT that I just retrieved through a series of hoops, and I can't find anyone selling older subaru's in the entire state of Louisiana..

Hello all, I'm new here, though I did search, but it could just be that I suck at searching.. Anyways, I got my hands on an '86 BRAT; EA81, 4 speed, 4wd. I have been trying to find some wiring diagrams for the fuel pump as well as fuel lines themselves. The previous owner said it has been sitting for a while, so should I attempt to clean out or replace the fuel tank as well? The plug for the fuel pump (which is new) is missing entirely, so I'll make one for the mean-time. My only issue is, I don't want to rip apart the entire interior tracing wires to find out I didn't need to...does anyone know where the fuel pump wires lead to once they go into the cab? Thanks ahead of time. *Update - I, for the meantime went ahead and hard-wired a separate switch to control the fuel pump and was able to get her started and idling fluctuating between about 500-1000 rpm when cold and once she warmed up she was at a semi-smooth idle around 750. Now my EGR light is on in the dash, as well as my parking brake light being stuck on (easy fix I'm assuming) and when I give her any gas she wants to stall. I'm hoping it's just a vacuum line I couldn't see since it is pretty dark outside.