subaruVWnut

It loses spark (fire). Warren C.

98 OBW w/ DOHC 2.5L....just finished head gaskets, seals, valve job, timing belt., etc.' Car drives fine for about 100 miles ...then drops 3 and 4....pulling fuse #14 (ECU backup) restores power for another 100 miles. What can cause engine to lose cyls 3 and 4 like this.... Have replaced coil and ignitor with known good units...even replaced ECU.. Warren C.

It's a 98 Outback....but I just bought the car at auction? I'm the third owner? Misplaced the key

Lost my keys? Can the dealer make new ones from the VIN # or some other code? or do I have to get a locksmith. Warren C.

Just acquired a 90 Legacy Wagon (automatic tranny) and I'm not sure that the AWD is working. I noticed some wheel spin in the front when trying to drive it up on some ramps.... I was told to test gunn it from stop on a gravel road,.....which I tried.... A bit of spin the first time.....hard to tell on the other two tries.????? Inconclusive ! In the Yahoo Group...someone said something about "open differentials"..and "no way for the AWD to not work"......which I'm not sure I understand......but I know what a limited slip diff is. Is there a difinitive test for proper function of the AWD? Warren C.

After diagnosing no compression on #3, a leakdown test shows problem with exhaust valves. Engine is out. Removal of left head reveals a cracked exhaust valve. So now some decisions and...so I have some questions. I decided to remove both heads and (at least) replace both headgaskets along with the broken valve...... Here's my dilemma.... The original compression test showed even compression ....but not very high compression...around 125-130 on the other three cylinders. So I had planned to do complete head reconditioning and valve job to both heads, but adding up all the machine shop and parts cost is getting pretty expensive So.....???? 1. Should we do a valve job on both heads...to improve compression or just fix the one cracked valve. 2. Should valve guides be replaced? They're expensive. 3. Is it OK to re-use the head bolts? They're also expensive. Is there a standard list of recommended tips/ cautions and parts list to replace during valve/head gasket repair? Warren C

The good news is that we found out why.....even after a new computer gave us spark at all four cylinders.....the car still runs like crap! The bad news.... the reason why........No compression on the #3 cylinder. Engine rebuild (or replacement) time! Warren C.

Thanks, I suspected vacuum leak also, which would contribute to my rough idle. But the "whistle" doesn't seem to be in the engine bay....it's loudest at the exhaust pipe. Warren

This is a good deduction. Is is possible a "plugged" catalytic converter could also be contributing to my poor idle.....possibly causing too much back pressure. Warren C.

One more "clue".... There's a rather loud "whistle" that come from the exhuast on hard acceleration. Sounds like a turbo whistle. I've warmed it up to the point where the radiator fan comes on with no change in the rough idle. I'll try your individual cylinder check by pulling each plug wire. I plan to do a compression check...but damn...these DOHC engines are a PITA to access the spark plug area. Guess Japanese engineers aren't perfect.....it seems like they designed this engine without test fitting it in the car. Maintenance was an afterthough. I ruined (separated) one spark plug wire just trying to get it off the plug....so at least one of the wires is NEW....the other three might be suspect. Warren

I'm trying to diagnose a problem in a 98 DOHC 2.5L (in a Legacy Outback) I obtained recently that's running really rough at idle and wonder if there's some wisdom from the Group. First...engine would barely start and run....and CHK ENG light was on. An OBD-2 code reader showed "Misfire" on cylinders 3 and 4 which we diagnosed to no spark on either cyl 3 or 4 plug wires. CAT would get red hot from raw fuel being dumped from the non firing cylinders. We replaced the coil and ignitor with known good ones with no success....gradually traced the problem to a bad ECU. Obtained a replacement for the ECU and NOW have all cylinders firing on full throttle but idle is still really rough and lumpy. But I'm not getting any trouble codes on the code reader....even though the engine still runs (idles) really crappy. I suspected the timing might be off...perhaps due to incorrect belt installation before I got it. Can this be checked with a timing light without having to pull the belt covers? I checked the timing at the crank with a light....Spec is 20 degress BTDC at correct idle rpm of 600-800rpm. At my rough idle...which seems a little too low.. maybe 400 rpm....timing was at 14 degrees. A slight increase in idle to about 800 rpm sends the timing mark to 22 degrees.....if I accelerate any faster, it climbs gradually to well over 30 degrees. Any clues here?? Carfax report showed it was a "gross polluter" by couple of CA smog inspections stations and the coil had been replaced in it's last days with the PO.....before I got it. I could use some more diagnostic tips to get this engine running better.. Warren C.

You could be right that the problem may be more than the ECU...since this car is new to me and "not running" when purchased. But we definitely had no spark on cylinders 3 and 4 and with all systems (ignitor, coil, wiring) checking out OK from the ECU through the coil...plus..when the computer from other car was substituted ...we still had lots of other issues with poor running..mostly at idle....but all cylinders were firing on full throttle....which didn't happen with the original ECU. Just trying to follow a logical process of diagnosis...and this is where we are so far. I haven't done a compression or leakdown check yet..figured I needed all cylinders firing as the first order of business......man are the plugs hard to get to with these DOHC engines. Already ruined one plug wire, just trying to get it off the plug. Also need to buy one good plug wire for #4 cyl. Warren C.

The car was originally from Texas. It's a 5 spd with a 2.5L DOHC. I plan on buying one of the used computers with some kind of guarantee that it will work ....or money back...But what I need to know right now is how to tell which of the computers available is for a 5 spd...vs. automatic. Some of the listings show part numbers the same as mine except for the last four digits. Which part of the part number determines 5 spd or automatic version. Warren C.

I'm shopping for an ECU on www.car-part.com and can't figure which part of the part numbers indicate which ECU is for a 5spd tranny version vs an automatic. My ECU part number is: 22611 AD60A JA18000DK9 7902 Can someone tell me how to tell the difference. Warren C.

I'm electronics "challenged" but would be glad to send my ECU to someone qualified to check it out. Any volunteers?

Adam, Your suggestion is pretty much the proceedure we followed: 1. Swapped Ignitor with known good one......no luck. 2. Swapped coil with known good one........no luck. 3. Checked continuity of wiring between ignitor and coil .....good. 4. Checked the chassis ground to the ignitor.....good. 5. Checked continuity between computer and ignitor.......good...so it looks like it has to be a problem in the computer. 6. The problem car is a standard shift and I don't have a spare 96-98 computer...much less one for a 5 spd. The other car available that we grabbed the coil and ignitor from is an automatic. I decided to risk swapping the computers ....didn't expect everything to run properly....but thought I might at least... find out if a different computer would get all the cylinders to fire..??? I was worried I might damage the good computer in the automtic car.......but I'm the impatient type....so went ahead and swapped the auto ECU into the 4spd problem car....... Sure enough....still didn't run well...idled terribly and starting throwing off a bunch of troube codes......but with the throttle open...all cylinders are firing... So it looks like a bad ECU......and I'm in the market for a working ECU for a standard shift 98 Outback. The computer seems to have survived the test when put back into the automatic Outback...although the check engine light is on...hopefully a residual from the other car......and will go away when I dump the codes. Anyone know where to get a reasonably priced ECU. Also damaged one spark plug wire.....man are those things hard to get out on a DOHC 2.5L ...are there some secret tips Warren C.

Adam, Appreciate your help. Warren C.

The engine starts and runs.....anemically..of course on two cylinders. Initially I got CELs for misfire on 3 and 4 cyls....then after clearing the codes and running it for awhile....the CEL didn't come back on. Checking for spark in the number 4 plug spark by pulling a plug and holding next to the engine....no getting any spark arcing to the block. Running the engine dumps raw fuel into the exhaust/cat...causing the CAT to glow red hot after running awhile. Warren C.

I recently purchased a 98 Outback w/ an engine problem. It has the DOHC 2.5L .Trying to diagnose the problem. Rented and OBD-II code reader which shows "misfire on #3 and #4 cylinders". So far I've swapped the ignitor and the coil.....with no success.....still no spark on 3 and 4. Plan to check continuity on wiring between ignitor and the coil. I'd appreciate any other diagnostic tips. Warren C.

Just purchased a 99 OBW and it also has the intermittent speedo problem. Odometer works, no chk engine light, so, from reading this thread it appears to be the speedo head. Taping on the windshield wiper stalk made it work again the last time it failed. Hate to spend $160 for a whole new speedo head when this seems like an electrical problem. I'm pretty good mechanically, but not so good with electronics. I'm intrigued by this relationship between the wiper stalk and the speedo which indicates some kind of electrical failure....has anyone explored this....perhaps a bad ground ??? Has anyone determined if the circuit board in the speedo can be purchased seperately?? Warren C.

1999 Oubback Automatic AWD My speedometer failed today....odometer stopped also. But the cruise still works and the engine still runs fine. No check engine light ...at least yet. From reading previous posts on speedometer problems....(and if I'm interpreting the previous posts correctly )..it sounds like my symptoms point to the speedo head....rather than the sensor on the tranny... Am I correct that a failure of the tranny sensor (VSS) usually generates an OBD-II error and the check engine light comes on. Since my cruise control still works, engine is not in "limp" mode, and no CEL, the signs point to the speedo head. Am I right or wrong.....other factors to consider ???? Warren C.

Seems like a lot of valuable tech info from the factory has been lost. Hope someone will figure out how to make it available again. Warren

I am the moderator of the SubaruVanagon Group...a Yahoo Group dedicated to installing Subaru engines into VW Vanagons. Our Group used to have a number of links to very useful engine specific technical articles found in the "OLD" USMB. For example.....one of them was: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Manual/WiringDiagrams/DiagnosisEGI.pdf We would very much like to get these links working again. Is this document (and other engine tech documents from the former USMB) still available on the NEW IMPROVED USMB. If so, where, and how can I get our Links working again. Thanks for your help. Warren Chapman Moderator SubaruVanagon Group Yahoo Groups http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruvanagon/