92svxman

Total cost was $696, which covered the rebuild and needed moving parts, PnP, 2 coating on the turbines, center bearing housing, compressor wheel, turbine shaft and wheel. All that and new seals for up pipe, and exhaust, plus SS teflon line to the new banjo bolt ( which is little larger then stock, oem is .055 replaced with .060 ) and an fitting from the avcs pipe to the new line. I for one feel them a small increase in the banjo bolt should not overload the turbo with oil, i feel safer with a little more lub to the turbo then less because i don't care to do this again. It also comes with a 2 year warranty on the turbo from Six Star Speed, so to me it was a good deal.

Ok guys i got my turbo back today, and i for one think it came out great. Thanks to the guys at "Six Star Speed Subaru Performance Specialists", please check out the pictures of it, the ceramic coatings came out great and the PnP is smooth as glass and no more movement at the shaft. They also gave me new seals for the up pipe, and the exhaust, one more thing is a new flex oil line to the turbo.

The banjo size may be why many Subaru turbo go out before there time, i think that many of them are because of design work done by subaru which costs turbo user's a lot of money over the years. I have some picture sent to me by Six Star Speed, please have a look at what "oil starvation event(s) can do to your turbo's.

For anyone thats been reading this post, just got word from six star speed that the turbo failed because of oil starvation. It did a number on the core and will cost more to get it repaired. Its still cheaper then a new turbo.

Hey John i do understand that the oil is needed to cover all moving parts, used to work on airplanes and was the same. Getting too little oil to parts that are high R.P.S. is going to burn up the turbo, and its Subaru short coming in there design of the oil line and banjo bolt size, the rest of the banjo bolts have openings of .165 and the turbo's banjo bolt is only .055. How many turbo's have been burned out because of this, and we as the drivers have to spend big bucks to get them fixed when it should be Subaru covering the coats.

I came across some TSB one of which seams interesting to me about turbo banjo bolts. When I took off the banjo bolts i found one of the smaller hole ones, which means the turbo's don't/can't get all the oil needed and burns them out. I wonder if this is a repair the SOA should be doing on all turbo?

The oil pipe that goes over the turbo was holding it in place, 2 flair wrenches move it 45% and the turbo lifted right off. When i checked for movement it was easily 1/16" to 1/8" movement, which i for one think is a lot of movement. Have packed it up for shipping to 6 star speed for porting and polishing, which they say will give 10 to 20 HP (which would not be a bad thing). The red wrinkle coating on the compressor housing, and black ceramic coating on the turbine will keep temps down somewhat. Lastly a full remanufactoring of the core. Anyone know the parts numbers for the exhaust shank bolts and nuts that go with them. Would also like to replace the 14mm nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust. Thanks again for all the help. By the way the wrench on wrench got the last banjo bolt off.

I'll give that a try before taken the up-pipe off, one way or the other it will come off. Thank for the advise.

Once again i need some help, there is one banjo bolt to the rear end of the head that i can't get to. My question is this do i have to remove the up pipe to get at it, or is there any other way. Have tryed short wrench but can't break it loose, long wrenches won't fit because the rail is in the way. Sockets won't clear the stud from the up-pipe. If removing the up-pipe is the only way, i'll do it just looking for the easies way.

One other thing i reached into the back of the turbo, to check the blades and there was a lot of movement. I will check the amount of play once i have it out. Thanks again for all the info, and help so far.

Ok Guys took off the exhaust down pipe, removed the bracket, and most of the hoses. There are 2 i am not sure of, the oil line that comes off the right side of the turbo and goes down to the rear of the head on the right side and is bolted there but goes under the turbo to the left side and has 2 bolts to that side and then goes to the reservoir. The other comes out the bottom of the turbo, but i can't see it at this point maybe after i loosen the first pipe. Any easy way to do this?

No i haven't done that yet, but will have it on my to do list for tomorrow. I will order the pcv valve and then pull it. After i have that out i'll pull the bolts to check the screens, if there blocked i'll order them too. Then i'll check for any play, with the intercooler out of the way it be a lot easier to pull the banjo bolts. At that point i'll have to choose to replace the core of the turbo, or have the whole thing re-manufactured. I am an old fart and always enjoyed having a few extra horse power, but can also work with a working turbo.

Pulled the intercooler off today, to have some room to get the PCV valve out and get to the in/out oil line's on the side of the turbo. I found that there is more oil being sent from the turbo into the intercooler then going into the throttle body. My next move is to pull the banjo bolts to see if the filters are blocked, but should i do the pcv valve now that i have some room to work in? With the help of all who have given time and intelligence in getting me this far, " All man are my superior, in that i can learn from them" Thank you one and all. Michael

Thanks that's an easy way around the damn things, and a lot cheaper then that tool. Thanks for the info.

No its not that type, its a French tool company http://www.caillau.fr/products.php?ln=en&mn=clic&sub=pose I have been trying to find this tool in the U.S. but do not know if the GM tool will work or not. Has anyone found a tool that works on this Clir clamp?

I went to pull the PCV valve off to check it out and clean it out and found a clamp that i have never removed before, the FSM gives a tool #18353AA000 and called it a "Clamp plier". The Subaru parts sites don't list tools, so my question is where can i get a pair? I know that someone here can point me in the right direction.

OK the spark plugs are NGK IR, with marking ILFR6B and they all come to a pin point just like http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp?mode=nml says they should be. All are dry, no oil or other fluids like coolant, or carbon build up. Lead me to think the HG is good, but have not done a leak down check, need to get the tool for that. Will be moving on to check filters at the turbo

Ok got the spark plugs out, the color is good but the electrodes are worn down and look like pin points with gaps that are twice as wide as the replacement plugs. All are dry and are from tan to tan-white, as the FSM states they should be. This tells me the HG's are alright, and i can move on to the turbo to check the filters. Once again i want to thank everyone for there ideas, all of which have been helpful.

I don't mean to offend anyone here, all i want is any helpful idea's in getting my car up and running again. The reason i asked was when i looked up the number given 14412AA360 at 1stsubaruparts.com they said its not a subaru part number. Do not know if its for another subaru, but its not for 04 forester xt. Its a god way to go, just not the only one. Thanks for all the info so far.

Thats nice and i have one for you. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-TD04-VF39-PNP-TURBO-SERVICE-FREE-SHIPPING-/250756517345?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D575414347881321164 which one is cheaper and which is better? Getting a new core would stop any leaking around the shaft, but would it give me 10 to 20 HP? I can get the porting and polishing for better flow, and have the 18T compressor put in at the same time. My SVX's came with 230 HP and i like the feel of that. Talk to me tell me why i should go for the core, and not the upgrading? I will be reading up on the core, i always like to cover all my bases.

I will be checking the plugs asap, once it warms up to freezing. Will also check for shaft play in the turbo, already found a turbo service on e-bay which is a lot cheaper then a new one. Upgrades the blades and re-manufacture the unit.

I will look into the screens into the turbo, as soon as it warms up to freezing (too cold for my liking). The STi has about 100 HP more then mine, but start with the same block then they put in the costly bits. The FSM calls it AVCS but i only got the spec's for the 04, so i'll take your word that its an early system.

Can i check for play without removing the turbo? Pulled the banjo bolts to the AVCS, which had no screens in them and replaced them. Now you say that there are screens on the turbo too? How many? I belive the my04,05,06 are all the same engine, would they put the AVCS on the turbo earlier then on the N/A? Thanks for the input.

Good luck with your car, and enjoy the turbo driving. Just got the FSM all 9 Section, its a foot of reading to get done. My car only has 1 mod, an under drive pully on the crank shaft. I will be looking into the PCV. Tell me the 3 or 4 ways oil could get to the tail pipe, please.

The pipe i checked was covered with oil, i would say heavily coated with it. I'll check the other pipes tomorrow. If i get what your saying is that the turbo is blowing oil into the inteercooler? Help me out here, its my first turbo.