92svxman

I have to pick up the compression tool, soon. Checked the intercooler and found oil in the pipes leading to it. What does tha mean?

Timeline 1 got codes P0011/P0021 2 Radiator started loosing coolant, which took priority and had to be ordered and shipped. 3 Read up on codes, that had me check banjo bolts and then the timing belt. 4 Ask for help with the smoking from the tail pipe, but some under the hood near the turbo. Smoke is off white, maybe a little on the gray side. I would like to thank everyone that has asked and is trying to help. You Guy's and girls are a great help with my first turbo, have 2 svx's but nothing is the same on them.

No it does not smell sweet.

Almost overheated, pulled over and added coolant and after that alway had some handy. Replaced belt,waterpump, tenionor, and all the posts the belt goes around. Replace the termastat yesterday, before replacing the radiator (pending for snow and rain). It did not hit the red line before i pulled over and stopped.

By the way i'm replacing the radiator because it was leaking around the platic top that is held on by metal fingers. I take out the old radiator and i get under the car and see oil dripping down from the downpipe of the turbo. So my fear is headgasket, or turbo leak.

From reading the posts it said that the code could be the banjo bolt filters need to be replaced, which i did. Then they say to check the belt if that did not fix the code, which i did and its still smokes. Color is off white maybe a bit darker, but lots of it.

It started smoking after i got the codes, I went back in to check the belt after it started smoking and all 9 points lined up.

Have a smoking problem after warming up, Lots of smoke come out the tail pipe. Car has about 75K on it and was getting P0011/P0021, which lead me to replace banjo bolts/filters and then doing the whole timing belt, waterpump,tenionor,and belt posts. At first i would warm up the engine and drive to the store, but when i started the car up again it would idle real low and seam a little off and smoke big time. Michael My04 Forester XT, 92 SVX

Give F & S auto salvage a try, their only do subaru's. Good luck and good hunting.

Try 1stsubaruparts.com there on the west coast.

Its a great car, and keeping the tranny cool help a lot so put in a cooler. I keep a spare for parts, other then that the best place for parts is 1stsubaruparts.com which is on the west coast. They have a parts catalog that you can look up many parts on, and if you can't find the one your looking for call them. Good luck

You can alway replace the tranny with one from another Subaru, Just check out the gearing you want and get the whole driveline for less then repairing the front diff.. The SVX is a great car but is a little slow off the line with 3.454's if you go for 3.90's it would get up to speed faster. There are also 4.11's and 4.44's. A used tranny should be under $500, for the flex plate, tranny, drive shaft, and the rear diff. so they match. Good luck svxman Michael

Yes I am in the US. How come the donut is 16"? The car is riding on 17" after market rims. Thanks for the info about WRX springs.:cool:

Thanks john in KY, Its just that I have a svx donor car in the driveway. Don't have any Outback's, so I wanted to use what I have.:-\

My brother has a 91 turbo legacy 5 speed, with 17 inch rims on it that rub in the wheel wells. I was wondering if the rear struts from a 92 svx fit, and if they would give any addition height (so the wheel will not rub)? The Legacy SS had 16 inch wheels to began with, but the Legacy came with 15" wheels and I wanted to know if the struts are the same. Are the svx struts any longer, or ment to carry more weight? Thanks for you time Michael:cool:

It depends on the cost, as well as if its running. Remember to keep some funds to the side, as fixing does cost. Good luck Michael

It seem that everyone is saying the same thing, CV, Axle, or Bearings, but on the other hand Vibration would not be the same as vibration on the out side of the bearing. Check to see if the rotor on the vibrating corner is cracking down the "Fins" show signs of cracking. If you take off the wheel and try to turn the rotor, if you meet a fin or two cracked it will get harder to turn. Good luck with it anyway. Michael

Don't be nervous there are lot of Subaru out there with parts that will bolt right up to the SVX, turbo's, 5/6 speeds, big brakes and a whole bunch of other things, if you just read the Subaru sites. svxman

My 92 SVX H-6 has 150K on it and is still pulling strong. The engine was not the thing that gives heart aches but the automatic transmission gave up too early.

I wish I found one as good for doing my 92 SVX, great and useful. Too bad its not for mine, which I have replaced with an Alpine. Good work

Welcome to the best place to find out about Subaru's. I have a 92 SVX LSi and enjoy the piss out of it in the snow.

I have an 1988 BMW 735i and it drives nice in the snow, but nothing drives as nice as my 1992 Subaru-SVX LSi with the EG33 6 cylinder. 230 HP and lots of control in deep snow.

Looks good but should have more flying snow, Moved up to Poughkeepsie, NY about 7 years ago and found the Colleges have great parking lots. There big as all get out and not plowed until the morning after. Enjoy.

Can the tranny be removed without taking the front diff. off? I have a manual that says the tranny is made up of three parts, front diff., rear ext. and the central part with the brake band (which happens to be slipping on my 92 SVX LSi). Any way you can help with this info would be a great help to me.

I must say that it can be done in a driveway; because I had done mean a number of times after my back was broken. It all depents on you and if you still like working on the car, anyway when you get to the tensioner use a 6 " C-clamp to push it in and use a small pin in the top of the cylinder(it will make getting it back on must easier). As far as the front belts the adjusters for them are found on the left side of the engine (looking in from the front) there is a wheel that has a flat nut on it (facing you), that is to be loosened and then the adjustment can be done be using the bolt 3" to center. The hardest part is getting the crank pulley off, it can be as hard as you make it. What I found to make the job a lot easier is to us the starter to brake the 22mm bolt that holds the pulley on. Good luck, stop by you local library; I bet they have a copy of the manuals.