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I just air wrench them down, but if you don't have air squeeze the joint together by putting weight on it or using a jack. If the nut turns the threaded portion it can drive you a bit batty. I would think that would be the only likely problem, but sometimes the simplest thing can be a bear.

here's hoping its gone forever.

If it were mine I would change the temp sensor for the computer. They are cheap and often don't throw a code until they are shot. If that does not cure the problem it is time for the dealer to give you a loaner and drive your car until they find the problem.

The clutch must have play in the cable or it is partially disengaged. It is for more than pedal height.

Does the electric fan come on?

It is rare for one to be easy to remove without the proper tools. I have had to hit a pickle fork with a sledge hammer to remove one.

symptoms like yours have been reported. As they get worse they act up all the time. They often don't show up on all the time honored tests. I agree with the other folks that it is time for gaskets.

good luck!

Thats a good point Josh. I thought he meant the flange. It's tough when you can't see it.

If there is about a 25% chance the phase 1 headgaskets will fail (this is only a number someone told me) that still leaves 75% with no problem. Of course if you are in the unlucky number who have failures it still leaves you angry and frustrated. I chose the later engine after being advised by this board on the possible problem. The other reason I liked the later style is that I prefer SOHC on a car that I may work on myself and is going to do the hard work for me. My BMW is a pampered garage queen while the Subie is hauling train parts and tools to SF in a few minutes. For this duty I want a car as reliable as possible. She is covered in mud today as I have not had time to clean her since running her through the rain and mud at the port yesterday. This is what I have a car with four wheel drive for and the little forester does the job. If I were you I'd get a post 2000 phase 2 with as few miles as possible.

The phase 2 came out in the Forester and Imp in 99. This is why I have a 99 Forester myself. I think it hit the Legacy and Outback the next year. The phase 2 pre 2003 can do an external leak that Subaru's general cure for is a can of goop.They have also extended the head gasket warranty to 100,000 miles on these. The phase 1 tends to do an internal leak that only new gaskets can fix. there have been three version of phase one gaskets and the last version seems to work well. The phase 2 has at least two gasket versions. I am currently running th post 2003 version on my car.

I would start by popping the cluster. It seems that could be a connection or a bad ground. On BMWs I have heard of this being a bad cluster but I would try to clean the connections first. The other thing I would do is figure out which is the ground wire and run another ground from the body to it. Isolated plastic clusters often have grounding problems.

but somebody posted a BMW engine run on the long intervals made possible by the lights that tell you when to change the oil. It was very sludged up which makes me think I will be changing the oil more frequently than demanded. There may have been other factors like short trips for that Bimmer but why take the chance? I am pretty busy just now but right after Xmas I intend to send my Mobil 1 extended oil to blackstone for analasis,and I think I may ask them what mileage I should change it to stay clean and well lubricated. Paranoia has usually made me change oil about 3,000 mile intervals.

I would imagine this is a common repair in Maine.When I lived there years ago auto parts stores used to have a flange selection, but I imagine they just sell the whole pipe now. If it was a beater I would check wrecking yards for a good pipe. You might consider a piece of pipe one size larger and a couple of muffler clamps. If I am understanding you correctly you could just eliminate the flange on both sides. It is a bit tough when I can't see exactly what you have to work with. On exhausts I had there as a kid I would often replace a few sections before I got rid of it. Don't ask about the beer cans, hose clamps, and muffler bandages. I was broke.

Fog lights usually disperse more. I never run them in good weather unless I bump the switch while cleaning the dash. Then it might take me days to notice they are on because I can't see the little light that tell me they are on due to steering wheel location. I try them in foggy conditions and if I can see better I leave them on, if I can't off they go. Fog lights are usually rigged on low beam while driving lights are focused far ahead and on high beam.

with Toyota Corrollas. My friend's kid is running one now with my advice and we work on it together. It has over 200,000 on it and is running strong and burning no oil in spite of a near total lack of service. I would guess it has had about a grand in it since new which beats the heck out of my Subie. I hope my freind is right that it is non interference because he has never changed the timing belt. He brought it over last fall because the brakes were squeaking. The rears were down to the drum although they had changed the front the year before. He said the temp was running low and fuel mileage had gone to heck. In changing the thermostat we found a rats nest in the air cleaner that nearly blocked it. Mileage and temp are back where they are supposed to be now. He is doing several MPG better than my Subie with this small front drive wagon. But is it fun to drive? Will it go off road ...no.

That's not the only car affected. If I recall there were a number of others, perhaps including my 99 Forester. I am sure you will get this fixed free.

but there was a recall for cold weather braking (master cyl). It might be good to check with your dealer to see if you have a recall out. Otherwise I would suspect the vacum booster and fixing it might be cheap compared to an accident.

Yep. The plastic ones were not one of Subaru's better ideas.

either the engine or tranny has to come out to remove the seal and seperator plate. This is why I would reccomend clutch replacement at the same time if it is a 5 speed. I would clean the engine with steam and be darn sure it was not a valve cover gasket or one of those small seals at the back of the head before I pulled an engine or tranny. I would leave the front seals and oil pump seal until the late 80s or 90s when I changed the belt.

There is a plastic piece by the rear main seal that warps. When I had my clutch replaced at 88,000 miles or so (I had the defective organic clutch which you might have also) I had the plastic replaced with metal and a new rear seal. Just by the car's age you are getting ready for a reseal job soon, my 99 Forester now has 120,000 and all the seals replaced and the usual service done. It was a bit drippy about 88,000 and all the new seals and clean driveway are the cheapest joy I have gotten from the car.

a vehicle should be sluggish when cold anyway. Do you have winter rated fluids in the front and rear ends and transmission? Are you running a thermostat of the correct temperature for the climate? If the car feels normal when warm and you are doing these correctly it just may be because its cold outside. Can you ride in a friend's similar car to see if it performs like yours?

or modify your car in a big way. The Outback is just a passenger car and not really that off road capable. When I was your age I was kicking the crap out of old Jeeps learning what you are now. Properly driven the Subau can surprise a lot of folks with what it can do. I am not sure an automatic is best for what you are trying to do, although MT Smith and some of the other folks say that they can out perform a 5 speed in snow conditions. I recently took my Forester through so much mud I still have it in my engine compartment and it did fine. It is a five speed so there is no lockup period for the rear wheels, and I knew that since I have no low range I had better keep my speed up or I was screwed. The Subarus they sell in other countries are more off road capable.

unless you are a pro its a pain. Get a dent puller and strip the panel. Pull out what you can and and cover the entire panel with filler and smooth with an air board.

It may not be necessary to remove on your car as it might be different than my 99.