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but I wonder if they got fired in the end. There seems to be a ready supply of folks with a great idea that would save money and make a fortune in the end. It doesn't always work out.... But back to the Tribeca, I bet it drives very well. When I first saw a Subaru the cars were the sort that one had to appreciate the function rather than the looks. Folks who bought them swore by them and said they were unbreakable.

and I am really glad all these folks have told me not to worry about the noise. I have a new tensioner and it made no difference at all in noise, I just had it changed since I was having everything else serviced on the front of the engine. I've occasionally been tempted to tear it down and go for the new pistons, but I supect It would cost me a couple of grand for only a small result. Since I added 15-50 Mobil 1 a few thousand miles ago the sound is far less noticeable except on cold start up. I think all the heavy oil is doing is taking up a bit of the clearance on the piston skirts until the car sits long enough for it to drain down. Before the heavy oil it rattled every time I started the car. I guess I will just run it and see what happens, after all I have run noisy diesels for years will little problem.

at the Oakland Airport to take to Burning Man a few years ago. I don't recall which agency, but it was one of the fairly big ones. They are popular in some places as skiing rental cars. My brother in law in Queenstown New Zealand used to have several he rented to skiers. I haven't been over for a couple of years but I imagine he still rents some.

over here every year the have the Buick open. After the open all the courtesy cars are for sale, most of them cherry. I've had pretty good luck with a low mileage demo myself.

exactly why the dual range is offered in parts of the world where Subau deems the roads require it.

And I live in the SF area so it gets a mix of freeway and city. I seem to average about 25 most of the time. The best I ever saw was 27.75 because the car is shaped like a brick and my foot is a bit heavy. From what folks I know see this is about average for a Forester in this kind of use. Some folks with the right driving conditions and good driving habits do better.

and for that matter the BMW Z4. There are some timeless shapes out there in auto land, and there are some that could stop a clock. There was a period where it seemed that I liked most Subaru designs. I hope my Forester will hold out until they make something I like again.

do a search on that nad check his website. If it were mine I would keep the whole parts car until you are done. I have had to search for small items on swaps and go back to junkyards so many times.... You will need the entire pedal assembly, maybe the computer, perhaps part of the wiring harness, I bet the gear ratio is different and you will need the rear end and driveshafts. Do yourself a favor and keep the whole car till you are done.

and taking out the belt. This would cost about what he was quoted. If I recall that was because the the engine ran out of oil.

fuel prices in places like New Zealand are also high due to transportation of the fuel. I agree we have done a poor job of public transportation in this country due to geograpic problems and the development of the Model T Ford. In your area I am sure the car is your only option. But if I recall the subject was are H6s any good and just to keep a bit on topic I think they are. Personally I like timing chains better than belts and I think the H6 goes back to a bore spacing that makes sealing the head s less of a challenge. I just wish they would lower the compression a bit and then the dang thing would probably be bullet proof and take regular gas. The folks who want more power would probably not be happy though.

or the door frame on the driver's side. You might look there for the year of manufacture, barring that you can often look it up in a manual, or do a carfax. You can also ask a dealer who should have it by the VIN too. Good luck in writing Subaru.

and it sure is nice to pull the Forester up to the regular pump. Compared to other countries we have fuel prices that are quite low in the US. We really should not complain when there are folks out there paying twice as much.

they are really easy to hook up and if you get used to them they are very helpful. Some folks hate them, but not me!

There may be some out there, but I've not seen them in the 10 or so I've had to do with. If it is possible it should say in the directions. After all if it has a seperate amp power wire (many amps power off the antenna wire) the amp will be on for rado and cd.

Thaks Olnick, that's the one I thought it was, looks nothing like Chilton's illustration. Today has been a chainsaw day to get rid of a dead tree, I hope to look at the Subie tomorrow afternoon.

most aftermarket head units only power the antenna wire when the unit is turned on.

I bought one of those chap mini clusters that have temp, oil pressure, and amps. The only one I want is the oil pressure but I had to buy the cluster to get it at 45 bucks. Anybody know which is the oil pressure sender on a 2.5 phase 2? My Chilton's manual seems to have a sense of humor. For example to show how the thermostat works it has a picture of a V8. I would say the picture of the oil pressure sender is from a very early engine. It says the oil pressure sender in on the head in a 2.5. Is it right?

that I have yet to hear of a head gasket problem.

is a tale that will be told in future expenses. the supension should be good for 100,000 miles and the engine and clutch work a similar amount. If it blows up.....

will hold out until there is a hybrid with a similar size and shape to replace it.

for 15 years and about 300,000 miles. It did not cost me any more to run than this Forester, and less repairs were needed in the first 10 years. Pretty much brakes, tires, and oil changes for 10 years in fact. After that it became more and more expensive to run as stuff wore out. What hurt with the Mercedes was inital cost, license, and insurance here in CA.

I work on my car when I feel like it, but if I am busy at work I take it to a mechanic, or I used to use the dealer. Everything listed was stock parts except the stereo which would have cost much more than the $217 I paid for an after market unit to have the stock CD player repaired. I had rear brakes installed once by a service center when I first got the car. Last year I installed struts and did a complete brake job myself so only cost there was about $800 in parts. I did not list tools I bought or small items like wiper blades, bulbs, or pedal covers I intalled myself. I bought the car four years old with about 88,000 miles on it and the former owner had driven a lot and only added tires, a battery, and oil changes. I did not include a sway bar I added as it was not needed for normal running. I think this represents what a person buying an older car would pay to have it well serviced by a mechanic. Remember the 90,000 mile service on this car is a big one with all belts and seals, as well as a clutch on my car. I have put a couple of thousand bucks a year into the car. This is about $166 a month which I think is probably cheaper than a payment, more insurance, and another grand at least for a newer car in registration here in CA.

engines have plugs that go through the valve cover in a tube. The O rings seal the tube.

I just ran a spreadsheet on maintence costs for my 99 Forester from March 2003 to now. In 28,051 miles I have spent about $6,200 on maintence with much of it through the dealer. I added struts, brakes, and a few other bits myself. This also includes an exhaust pipe, clutch, oil seperator, timing belt, resealing and all services as the owner's manual specifies.

I'll root for ya!