sublute

Yup, it was a vacuum line off... Well, I think that's it! This thread can be officially closed. Again a BIG thanks to all who helped. I hate to let the Loyale go, it has many more miles in it (with a little work). I will post it in the forsale section. I have many parts that I should post, too... Hopefully, someone can use them.

I will check that. I was digging around there checking the coolant sensor and such, so I'll check. Thanks

Yes, I actually do a bit of mandolin work. The last mandolin job was rebuilding a 1895 Vinaccia... There is a Baltimore Mandolin Orchestra that is over 100 years old. I've done a bit of archtop mando work, too. Most memorable was a Lloyd Loar F5. I am an incurable do-it-yourselfer which gets me into everything from musical instruments, computers, vacuum tube audio, diaper dadding AND Subaru work!!! ( to name a few...)

Thanks, I'll check the selenoid connections and such. So the code is tripped by the selenoid function(or not)? Interpretation of the codes takes a whole new understanding....I can't help but think it has something to do with the amount of fuel that the canister absorbed. Does this make sense? Yes, I do the carving. It is done directly in the soundboard, so no mistakes or if you do, you have to hide them if you can... The rosette in the photo is gold leafed (not usual). I specialize in renaissance and baroque lute and harp making. They are highly engineered delicate instruments. I also enjoy working on vintage guitars.

Hello All, I was driving last night in the snow flurries and I noticed the CEL was on... This mornings trip to Autozone yielded a P0441 code which is "EVAP system incorrect purge flow". I think this must be from the evaporation canister soaking up so much gas from all that cranking.... I imagine this will go away once the canister settles down to a normal state? I'm going to clear the code and see... The overflow tank seems to have no bubbles happening. It runs smoothly and I am HAPPY!!!!. Guarded optimissm aside.... To tomson1335, I don't have a website yet, but it is on the list of things to do... I will attach a few samples of my work on this note. Sorry for the OT image posting.

I took the battery off for a few hours and then back on. No CEL. I took it for a shakedown drive. All seems well. I saw a few bubbles in the expansion tank when I idled pre-cruise. I let it cool down and added more coolant to top it off. I'll keep my eyes on the tank just to be sure.

I'm getting a CEL. This doesn't surprise me after the amount of smoke that came out of the tail pipe initially. Should I just disconnect the battery overnight and see if that clears it. If not, pull the codes?

Hello everybody, Vrrrrrmmmmmmmm!!!!!! Started right up..... There was enough oil suction on the lifters that they stayed sucked in place on the exhaust side. On the other side the upper lifters were hard to take out because of this suction. Question? Do I have to go through any sequence for the ECU to re-learn? I remember reading about an idle time and such. Thanks again for all your help!

Well, good news. I got around to switching cams on the 1-3 side this morning and noticed again that the cam cap on the seal end is marked and visible from the outside. I then looked at the 2-4 side from the outside and they are in the right position. I was really careful to keep all the parts with the relative cam. I guess I lost the Big Picture on this side. Of course, there is Murphy's law... I must have gotten confused when I rotated the engine on the stand. The oil pan was off which is the obvious up-down reference. Duh... I hope to have it back together and running???!!! this afternoon.

OK, I read the last postings and I would like to say that all the advice given has been really good. Diagnosing and helping somebody vicariously is difficult at best and the quality of the help is a testament to your knowledge and willing to help folks who do not now this stuff like the back of their hand. I know it has tried your patience. I try to do this for people in areas of my expertise, so again, I really appreciate your help. I tried to cover the suggestions from KISS to diagnosis with tools at hand. Again, it has been a real education that I'm sure will greatly help me in the future. The I did timing belts on the Loyale, swapped engines, changed clutches and a minor sensor problem which was easily rectified. The Loyale (as with all my Subaru's) has been a car with relatively few problems and I've not had to deal much with sensors or complicated problems. This OBW is by far the most complex job I've done to date. It is my intent to donate to this board so others (and myself) can continue to benefit from it. Things are a little tight now, but that will change... Thanks, and I'll stop calling myself an idiot when I get it going again...

OK folks, I officially declare myself an idiot!!! I popped off the cam cover and YES!!!! the exhaust cam is on the intake!!! I'll check the other side to see if I got it wrong on the other side, too. I violated the measure twice cut once rule... I'm really sorry to waste everybodys time and considerable effort on this. It has been a real learning experience and I understand this car so much more which should serve me well. Question, I should be able to swap the cams with the engine in the car, right. You just have to be careful with the lifters falling out of the exhaust side??? The drivers side is going to be the really tight one... Right now, I can't even get the cam cover out before taking the cam pulleys off and the back t-belt cover off. it seems. I'm really feeling stupid at this moment (but relieved, too).

Yes, they are still off. 6 Sensor making a blip on each one... Yes, I know. I really don't want to see any magic smoke.... I just want to hear the puff-puff of exhaust out the tail pipe....

OK, I'm getting frustrated. I hooked up the other scope and lost the injector signal. I switched leads and the ignition followed, so both channels are working. I tried to switch to a higher sensitivity on the injector channel and still nothing! In the movement of wires, the 1K resistor on the injector harness slipped and yellow hit ground. It drew a bit of current!!!. It wasn't cranking at the time. It still has 12v on it but it freaked me and it's time to step back. Could I have damaged anything? It must go to the + of the batt. thru a 10a fuse or something....

I just pulled out the 35Mhz version of this scope. It seems to be in better operational condition than the 15Mhz scope I was using. That one was a curb shop but was functioning OK with audio Hz until I found this other one. I just took a pic of it... I was looking at the .1v cal sig. with 10X probe, so that is why the setting is there... I'll try this one and also try a time lapse photo if I can't make it clear.

I've been trying to get something usable...I've been having a hard time getting the sweep to show a long line showing more than one blip. When I slow the sweep up they become dots that move across the screen dipping, but I can't see their relationship as they are just dots. I could try a time exposure of this with the camera... Is there something I'm missing here. I'm not a scope power user.... The photos show a rise (lower trace) at the point that the injector is dipping(upper trace). I also tried a video on my camera. I tried slowing it down to be able to go through it at a slow rate. The previous observation holds.

I put the dummy resistor on the coil lead and had a hard time seeing anything from that when I scoped it. I have a question. On the low side of the igniter, 1 or 3 to gnd, I am getting a deflection when I turn the ignition switch on. It might be 12vdc. I will measure it with a DMM. It should be low until it is grounded for spark, right? Battery is charging again...

Couldn't I use the compression guage and timing light as well to establish this? The only thing to watch out for would be the wasted spark... I'm going to try to get a clean scope first to pursue the course OB99W is taking me. OB99W, should I try with a 1K resistor across the open 1-2 on the connector from the ignitor to coil to get a cleaner scope? I have another 1K 10watt around.( a few other value, too)

I certainly though of this posssibility. I'd have to take a valve cover off to check... Yikes! 6 bolts and a tight squeeze? I'm pretty sure I got them right. They are marked in the casting and I marked the lifters with a sharpie. I also remember double checking the exhaust from where the Y pipe bolts on. 2 holes instead of 4 (2+ wide space +2) I was spending a bit of time waiting for new cam bearing cap bolts to arrive and such, so I wasn't rushing through anything at this point. Where are the archival digital photo's when you need them? Wouldn't the spark/injection relationship still be the same as the crank and cam shaft would be working as normal and the valves would just be out of sync? I think I smell fuel from the exhaust more... I think I would have smelled it in a strong way when I was messing around the throttle body? I would also smell some half burnt fuel from the coughing. Brain is hazy, think better tomorrow.... seems like there could be an easy way to verify the proper cams are in place.

I'll try again tomorrow with the more shielded lead and slower sweep. The happy juice has got me mellowed for the night...

That is not what I saw. I ran the sweeps again with a topped up battery I tried to take some photo's. These results seem irratic. The top is the injector and the different durations were my attempt to vary the sweep to see the coil/igniter more clearly. I am going to rig a coax probe to the coil to reduce any interference that might be coming from the spark plug wires. Dr. says bronchitis and gave me happy juice (cough syrup w/codeine) and antibiotics...

Here is what I see. The low side of the coil 1 or 3 to gnd dips before the injector dips. I tried to get a photo, but was unsuccessful at getting a clear one. I drained the battery again cranking it.... That sounds similar to what I saw with the timing light. and it flashed pretty close in relation to where the B channels dips... I tried it on both injector 1 and 2 with the respective low coil side. similar results If the timing belt is on right, how can this be? the cam pulley can only go on one way, indexed. The wires and coil can really go on one way... unless you force things... I've gotta tighten the drive belts on the Loyale before I go to the Dr.... My wife is hauling a harpsichord to a gig this weekend...

I'll scope CH B across 1 and the gnd. this morning. I'll let you know what it looks like. I am getting very slight coughs with turning over during all this. It might be because I'm having wishful thinking, but I seem to get more of a cough with an injector disconnected?? I'm doing more coughing than this car and so is my daughter. I'm off to the Dr. this morning because this is just not going away. ~3 wks!!!! Thanks so much for bearing with me on this.

I'm going to test the signal from the ECU to the igniter first to follow this train of diagnosing the igniter and check the switching to the coil. Do you think that drying the plugs with compressed air and a 500 watt heat lamp was not enough to clear up the plugs? I also blew out the cylinders with compressed air. Putting the old ones in for a try was on the list to do, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

I back probed the low side of the coil between 1-2. I double checked to be sure I had contact with the probes (snipped leads of a diode). The battery is getting low, but I couldn't trace it on the scope when cranking. The output looked noisey??? I then put an analog VOM on it and the voltage was steady on .75 VDC and then peaking/pulsing at 1 volt when cranking. This doesn't sound right. I will try it again when the battery is charged. It is really taking a beating... Do you think the ignitor is not grounding properly, thus malfunctioning? Could the reading be because the battery is low? The spark I was seeing on the plugs might have been not so good? The coil steps up to what voltage? 1 volt would translate to ??? on the secondary? Enough to trigger the timing light, spark the plug weakly, but not to ovecome a fuel fouled plug??? I should check the ignitor ground?

I hooked up channel B (with no ground) to the ignitor output I get a good 12 volt deflection on the center lead (normal), but when connected to 1 or 3 and cranked to compare with the injector signal, I get no deflection. Should I be going between pin 2 and 1 as the ignitor should ground the constant 12vdc of pin 2 when it fires?