surfcraft

Thanks for all of the replies. I'm just going to do what I've always done in regards to the fluids, knowing that there will be some mixing going on. To clarify, (and I should know better than to leave this out of any post) I've got a manual tranny. I'm guessing that consistancy of fluid types would be more critical in auto trannies in any event. I haven't decided whether to re-pack my wheel bearings this go-round, but that would be an instance where I would clean all traces of the previous lube so I wouldn't risk contamination by mixing grease types, i.e., lithium base with sodium (although I haven't seen a sodium-based grease in quite a while.) I put off the work this weekend 'cause SoCal was so cold, in the 40's . Cold-climate folks insert chuckle here. I'll try again next weekend---especially looking forward to changing those plugs; I do feel OK about it since doing a search here on the subject! Cheers, JW

Howdy- All I've done to my '03 Forester so far is change my oil and my air filter, but I'm going to tackle the 60,000 mi maintenance myself. The suggested maintenance table says that other than coolant and engine oil, only the brake fluid needs a complete fluid change. The rest: tranny and diff, clutch and power steering only need checking and topping-off. The manual, in all cases, makes a big deal of cautioning about mixing fluids from different manufacturers. Just to be safe, I thought I'd pick up some factory fluids while I was in getting some other Dealer items( brake stuff, etc.) Then I came across the above thread by Brus Brother that casts doubt on whether even the Dealers take this caution seriously. In my 60s and 70s IHs and Fords I don't get my panties in a bunch about manufacturers, I just match grades and viscosities, but this is my first new car to work on and everything about it is more "highly evolved". What do Subaru wrenchers do? Thanks, JW

Howdy-- I have a '03 Forester that came with 215/60 r16 tires from Yokohama. I never thought that the sidewalls were high enough for running dirt or beat-up pavement. Hit a pothole last week and had a blowout; about ready for new tires, anyway. What options do I have for taller tires? I have been considering finding 15" rims to use with taller tires and still fit the wheel wells without rubbing. TIA, JW

Googled Fumoto Valve. Looks like a hot tip! The drain hose nipple would be nice; I'll take a closer look to see if it would protrude down too far. The factory drain plug was the tightest I've ever come across. I was worried that I'd shear the spot welds from the pan. It'll be nice not to worry about that again. It would also be great(with the nipple)for my '68 F-250 that drains directly onto a frame cross-member. JW Thanks also to Geoff and Bratman; I'm guessing there's much plug discussion on this board. I'll do a search.

Heeeyyyy-- Are you hazing the new guy? Is the Fumuto valve like a Fergazi pin? Anyway, thanks. I'm really warming up to this little wagon. Took a real great (and economical) trip to Death Valley with the family in it last weekend. I'm always more comfortable knowing the beast I ride and its good to know there's help here while I figure it out. JW

I guess when they say "use only genuine Subaru Parts", they're not kidding. How do Gen-u-ine parts compare to aftermarket price and quality-wise? JW

Thanks for the reply. I'm always good to buy a new tool, if needed. The Subaru manual hinted darkly that changing plugs would be no picnic. We're not talking Pontiac Skyhawk(mighta been a Buick Sky- something) difficult, are we, the 80's GM's where you had to lift the engine to change plugs? I'm in it for the long haul and will be maintaining and repairing this car no matter what. I was just a little surprised by the air filter thing. How much would it have cost Subaru to narrow that housing so it could come out easily? Are these cars, overall, designed to be owner maintained? JW

That's what I thought.

First new car in 20 years- 2003 Forester. Great car so far! I've always done the majority of mechanics on my domestics; Service contract over... now it's my turn. Oil change-- no sweat, had to buy filter wrench, cause strap-types don't fit, no big deal. Please, someone tell me that the rest of the maintenance isn't as big a PIA as the usually simple act of changing an air filter. The housing is so tight against the firewall I could barely squeeze the old filter out and the new one in, all the while not wanting to knock dirt off the old filter. Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing? They gotta be kidding! Thanks in advance. JW