bratbro
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Posts posted by bratbro
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I'm working on a 81 Brat. Doing the front axle, rotors, calipers, ball joint. Everything is rusted on.
I soaked every nut and bolt with pb blaster and a super penetrant for 7 days. I only did that because I tried heating the seized parts and they still didn't budge. I used a gear puller and tightened it up best I can with out forcing it. Every day I went to spray it I turned the puller till the hub and rotor with the rusted on washers came off. The first axle popped right out with a good whack of a sledge. I did use a pice of wood to protect the axle.
On the drivers side I did the same thing except the axle wouldn't budge. Since I'm doing the ball joint any way. I pulled the pin on the axle, unbolted the strut from knuckle and took off the crown nut on the ball joint connected on the knuckle. Using ALOT of force pushed the ball joint out of the knuckle
Then removed the axle and knuckle as one unit. Placed the knuckle in my vise and slowly tapped the axle out. Good luck hope this helps
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I'm working on a 81 Brat. Doing the front axle, rotors, calipers, ball joint. Everything is rusted on.
I soaked every nut and bolt with pb blaster and a super penetrant for 7 days. I only did that because I tried heating the seized parts and they still didn't budge. I used a gear puller and tightened it up best I can with out forcing it. Every day I went to spray it I turned the puller till the hub and rotor with the rusted on washers came off. The first axle popped right out with a good whack of a sledge. I did use a pice of wood to protect the axle.
On the drivers side I did the same thing except the axle wouldn't budge. Since I'm doing the ball joint any way. I pulled the pin on the axle, unbolted the strut from knuckle and took off the crown nut on the ball joint connected on the knuckle. Using ALOT of force pushed the ball joint out of the knuckle
Then removed the axle and knuckle as one unit. Placed the knuckle in my vise and slowly tapped the axle out. Good luck hope this helps
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this is all that was left of the axel
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no pin hole. aftermarket axel?
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well i ended up unbolting the ball joint from the control arm and finally the steering knuckle came off. i thought it would be a easy task but it looks like i did it the hard way.
now that i have it taken apart do i just pull the seals one at a time till i get the rest of the axle off?
this axle dosent have a hole for the cotter pin. is that normal?
Also any suggestions on how to put it back together?
i been useing the shop book but nothing has worked. thats why i ended up doing this the hard way.
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strut wouldn't move with out having a screw driver wedge in. but wont move past halfway point. tips?
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The exhaust leak is going to be put off. Im going to the busted axle so hopefully soon it'll be drivable. Here's what I was facing.
Never mind. Can't figure out how to add pictures from my phone.
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Removed break calipers pb blsted steering knuckle getting ready to pull that and the busted CV joint out
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Is it new from a store or new used? If it's never been installed you should not have to do a thing to it. It should be pre sealed.
If used and has rust in it. Remove every thing from it and cover the holes with tape. I used meratic no acid (check my spelling) to get all the rust off inside but have been told apple cider vinegar works as well. If going with acid do it outside with plenty of air and have baking soda ready to neutralize the acid once you pour it out. (After doing it once I recommend just buying the kit) flush the tank with acetone. Then again with a clean can of acetone. Let dry then its ready for which ever tank liner you chose to buy.
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For you Bratbro*
Thanks! Looks like I'm getting a new tool then.
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Big huge monster thanks and shout out to superpoo93 (aka Noel) who swung by with his dewalt electro-impact that made short work of that stubborn axle nut. Now, I can get back to work. Thanks again, sir!
Was it a corded impact driver? I've soaked the castle nut for 4 days in pb and it still won't budge.
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I would check all fuses and the connection. Then check your relays and wires for damage. Having a manual really helps there might be what your looking on the online manuals on the home page I believe.
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Does the relay have marking on it? If it does you can use jumper wires to connect them then use a small battery to power the relay and you'll be able to hear it click. I did that on a Chevy I was working on.
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Is your fan turning on? Is there anything blocking air flow?
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Also my brother in Co. Did that out of state thing. Think it was like $400 when it was all done took about a month. Title came from Virginia (I think been long ago)
I'm actually surprised the mechanic didn't file for a work lean on it then get the title.
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Do you have land? Store it at your place. Put out a public notice in your area with the vin# and general info. Keep all records. After 30days you can file for a abandoned title. If someone comes to claim it. Have them pay the storage fee from when it was abandoned. Usually no one will claim it and if they do storage fee from 2002 will be more then what the car is worth.
At least in SD that's how it's done
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I'm thinking of using the flexible pipe on the Brat I'm working on. Mufflers and cat is not in my budget right now. Think online it was $45 for 25'
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Parts car. Can't beat that especially if you can talk then down.
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Update: headers bolted back on so the cabin isn't full of smoke like before. But both mufflers are holy and one of the pipes is rusted out.
I don't want to bring it to a shop to fix since we don't have emissions in my state.is there a exhaust kit available ? Can anyone give me a link? Thanks
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I would definitely check that your fan is working properly and also check your radiator fluid level and if there's leaves/bags blocking aif flow.
From what you said it heats up at a stop sounds like the fan.
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I'm currently in the process of picking up a 86 Brat $2,800 runs but needs work. And the donor 82 Brat $800 rusted and no motor
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I need to do this also. Only person I have seen post any info. On it was from lvsarge but he never did say what all he had to do to remove and install the handbreak bracket. Good luck keep us updated on what you find. I'll be doing this after I gets headers and fuel pump changed.
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Guess it all depends on your time $ and ability. I'm looking at 2 Brats one is a driver and the other is a donor. My plan was to get the drivable one finished then look for a turbo motor and transmission to drop in the donor. While the donor is bare I can do body work and clean / paint it till I find $ and the motor I want. Hope this helps you plan some. Keep it updated on which way you go.
Rock Auto Close outs
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I got my axle, ecm, filters, fuel pump, EGR for the same price of a axle from other sites. Shipping is a rip also to return core they don't even provide you with a address to ship it to.