thook44
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Posts posted by thook44
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i looked for a tap tonight when i went into town. no luck, but that was at lowe's. hell, they didn't even have the tap and die set on shelf the computer said was supposed to be there. they had stepped drill taps..individual...but, i don't want to use a drill tap and none were the right size, anyway
thread pitch 1.25? tried using their bolt chart and seemed to fit right, but the bolt i used (from the other brake) had some corrosion and so wouldn't thread in very far. didn't plan that very well...haha. should've clean it up before leaving home
at any rate, i'll be going to fastenal tomorrow and should be able to get all i need sorted. if the drill and tap alone doesn't work out, then i will helicoil it (great!). i have a tool/handle...just need the tap and coil pack. they usually sell those individual and pretty cheap at o'reilly....which is conveniently right next to fastenal
i realize trying to repair this will probably wind up somewhat close to what i'd pay for that bracket with less headache, but i'm also wanting to have the vehicle on the road again by the weekend.
i'll report what happens. thanks!!!
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i really do not want to go to subaru. not if a mere bolt is gonna be $15. and, the P and P options are nill last i looked. it's getting very hard to find older car parts around here.
you really think a helicoil would hold up to braking forces?
i'll try the progressive driling route first, i suppose. all my taps are standard, so i'll have to get a metric to do this.
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"94 legacy wagon AWD
i was removing the caliper the other day to get to the parking brake assembly for an R/R when the bolt securing the caliper to the bracket snapped off. it's flush with bracket surface.so far, my friend and i have drilled and tried an easy out without success. tomorrow, i'm going to another friend's shop and try again with his torch to heat it up a bit.
my concern is if it doesn't come out OR if the threads are damaged in the process. if the threads are damaged, i might be successful at straightening them out with a tap. but, if the damage is too great for that and i have to go ahead completely drill out the bolt remains, i wondered about tapping and going to a size up on the bolt
my first friend has advised against going to a larger bolt. it seems to me, though, it would make it even stronger. ??? but, he does know a great many things...from experience and technical education...i don't.
what do you guys think i should do if the torch and easy out is not a success? finding a replacement bracket around here will be very difficult. and, i really don't need another caliper = money i don't want/need to spend. (i've been spending enough, lately, as it is)
thanks so much!
ps. subaru dealer wants $15 for a bolt replacement.....lol! eff that! i'm going to fastenal
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i suppose my mind would be, except i don't really understand the technical ramifications of that. it's something i'm gonna read up on, though....so i can understand it
well, i'll just keep it simple with the jdm trans if i have to go that route.....a manual/ at swap and all -
yeah, almost a month later, finally able to get to this project.
turns out there is no padding left on the shoes!!! none! only some powder left inside the drum and two metal backing plates. so, gotta get new shoes. plus, the bolt tightening the caliper to the mounting bracket on driver's side broke off. so, gotta fix that. pffth..
and, discovered there's actually quite a bit of rust/deterioration in the crossmember for the rearend. ewww! all the dirt has been hiding it from mine eyes!!
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On a Subaru, both front & rear diffs MUST match. If they do not match, terrible things happen...
so, if you want to keep the 4.44 gearing of the auto, then you must find a tranny with the same ratio...
if you swap to a tranny with 4.11 gearing, you must swap the rear diff to match it.
i understand that aspect. it's no different than any other 4wd
vehicle since the wheels spin at different rates. sorry for the
confusion.
what i was trying to work out in my head with my prior post is how
the suby awd system mechanically differs from the toyota 4wd system that
i'm more familiar with. after some thought, now i see; the (viscous
coupling?) kinda takes place of a transfer case. however, with the suby,
you still have the transmission and two differentials, but the front
diff on the suby is actually mated to the transmission. (obviously,
right?
) and, without a transfer case, there are no other gear ratios to factor into the final drivestill..., the higher the diff number the lower the gear ratio = larger tire
and, so....if i were able to and did swap using my current legacy 5spd
transmission (and 4.11 diff) into an auto foz, would the rear diff from
my legacy mate to it? otoh, (just exploring the ideas here) couldn't i
just regear the front diff on my transmission to match the foz? or more
feasible to just get the turbo tranny to match? i'm asking because i've
got a friend who could actually help change out a diff. it'd save some
money were it even worth the trouble considering the cable driven clutch
issue...which i'm actually still gonna look into
i don't know. i could sell my legacy at the point a foz comes along
and recoup some expense. just don't know how much i'd get for a rusty
body though the rest of it is running very well....save a couple minor
details that i'm finally able to address today
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This is a crap seller but a good example. These transmissions are $400 all day long from reasonable sellers. That's what I paid for mine, and they had several. Another place had them too for the same price and several others at this price. If you try to get one from a place like Osaka JDM motors, they sell good stuff but they are going to knock you for $1,500. They will give you the shipping free though.
The speed sensor wiring is different between turbo and non turbo transmissions but electrically the same. Iwire makes an adapter harness for $31 if you don't want to cut/ splice
thank you kindly for the link!! this inspired me to peruse CL ads some more for foresters. nearly a handful for less than $1k. but, still none with a 5spd. and, zilch with the sunroof
which, btw, my wife has decided she likes the 1st gen body style more so, as well. so, it would seem that's what we're gonna focus on....'01-'02
i'm still deliberating on a motor choice contingent on finding a "foz" (hehe) needing a motor. both (the 20 and 25 series) seem to have solid merit, but most info i find is related to the turbo dudes and what they want out of an engine. which i guess is still fairly applicable, but i'm not that fanatical, either. they talk in terms i don't even freakin understand
edit: btw, is it the speed sensor that's on the pass' side of the tranny?
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if you can't find a tranny to match the final drive ratio of the Foz, you can always swap out the rear end...
as long as both ends match (front & rear), you are good to go.
fair enough. but, would i not have a lower gearing with the original a/t gearing? (eg...4.44 vs 4.11) that is if i find a 5spd tranny to match it (which apparently i can... via matt's post)
i'm familiar with toyota 4x4 diff gear swapping to a workable degree. so, if you have truck (manual) and swap in 4.88's from original 4.56, for example, you can run a larger tires without hurting overall power and mileage so much. but, 4x4's have a transfer case, too. hmmm...
edit: are you saying if i were able to somehow use/convert my cable actuated 5spd tranny i'd just have to swap the rear end from my legacy or from a manual foz?
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okay...sorry, guys. i found the info i needed over on nasioc. so long as the coolant is phosphate, silicate, and amine free then it's fine to use. no detriment to the aluminum system or seals. BUT!! it looks like the prestone low tox does have some silicates in it. i will have to research on this more. urmph...
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like i said, the low tox has worked fined for me. i've used it my toyotas, peugeot, and wife's buick. never overheated pulling a trailer in the hills in hot arky summers. never froze a motor, either, with temps down to single digits. so, maybe it's inferior, but....
animals....i take the cautionary measures. still, i feel better using it "in case" something stupid happens. plus, again, the environment. i live in the woods; no covered garage or concrete slabs, so i get to feel a little better once more "in case" something stupid happens.so, i guess subaru doesn't use an uber special alumiranium in the motors, or super secret formula for the gaskets, and no one's ever had motor failure in 50k due to using it?
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i have scoured the web! i could have overlooked, but from what i see there's little to no definitive info on this subject i'm approaching. i've ran low tox in my vehicles for years without issue.
but, i have a lot of animals (a non-profit refuge) and this is a big concern for me. not to mention the larger environmental factorsi've got another thread pondering choices for a forester (having yet to be acquired) that may or may not have a motor, but figured it might be better to have a different thread on this matter. and, the matter is choosing an engine that would be safely compatible with propylene glycol based coolant.
so, i know about the issues with the sohc ej25 and the fix. i've also read about the suby coolant (in addition to the conditioner) being strongly recommended for these engines....more so, of course, if the vehicle is still under warranty. i'm looking for early 2k models, so they won't be. on the other hand, i've also read to the contrary; doesn't freakin matter if it's suby coolant and screw the conditioner. whatever. i just want to know if either of the motors can safely run on low tox. particularly the 2.5L if it had the MLS head gaskets....which to my understanding is THE fix
and, so you know, if neither can safely do so, i will run what's best
thank you kindly
~matthew
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Never worked with 5spds that old, but I know they are cable clutch transmissions. I don't know as they are convertible.. Forester was never cable clutch, always hydraulic clutch, but some base model Impreza's might have been in 1997-1998, so you could use the Impreza 5spd parts to use your transmission but the car would be a mut.. Transmissions bolt up 1990-2013, however the bolt pattern on the bellhousing added 4 bolts for 1999 for a total of 8.
If you wanted a 5spd but only found auto's, a JDM 4.44 turbo 5spd goes for about $500. The 4.44 matches Forester automatic rear diff and it will give the car a bit more zip than a standard 4.11 5spd
okay...i'll look more into this. hydraulic be would nice, and so would a lower final drive. thanks!
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how recently did you get it?
did you stop anywhere out of the ordinary for fuel?
so, not only is the idle funky, but driveability is suffering, too?
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another question..
how do i find out what transmission i have in my legacy wagon? it's not the original unit, and i didn't ask what it came from. i'd assume, though, the 5spds from ej22 motors are universally used, but also wondered if it could have come from a different motor. moreover, i wondered if it's mate-able to a different motor....like the ej20 series or even ej25's. see, if i can only find an automatic forester, just wondered if my 5spd could be used at all. it'd save me some money....and wouldn't it just be convenient?
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so, here's an '01 sunroof. pan' or not....this will work just fine!!!
http://images.gtcarlot.com/pictures/49527601.jpg -
lol....well, what can i say? i love my wife and love to see her smile.
i have had the notion to get something first off that would suit her mainly...with a 4eat, even. then, at some point later, scrounge together a 98 and drop my legacy junk in it. lift it a couple inches, throw some 30x9.50's on it, and maybe even put in a low range. it'd be about like my old '86 4rnr save the low ars transfer case gearing. oh, it was fun while it lasted
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At that point. Itd be easier to swap a manual tranny in to an auto car with the sunroof.
Provided you're in a free state.
free state?
you have a point. and, i've certainly tossed around the choice. easier or not, i'd still rather have a factory roof and swap in a tranny than install an AM roof. i've a friend with an AM roof in his wife's honda crv. it was in when they bought it. never could get it to stop leaking, so just siliconed that pos shut. granted...it is a cheap ars unit.
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while I do miss the sun/moon roof (the '90 Lego had one), it is not a deal breaker for me.
the earlier models did not have the big panoramic sunroof like they do now, if that is what you are looking for... and to be honest, now that I think about it, I have not seen too many earlier Foresters with a sunroof.
the piston slap, while it sounds terrible, is pretty benign... it is not an indicator of needing a rebuild.
it is caused by the short skirted pistons (weight savings) wobbling just a little in the cold cylinders until things warm up enough to remove any excess play (heat = expansion, and all that)
during the summer months, it is pretty much unnoticed - this is more of a cold weather + cold engine thing.
the colder it is outside, the worse it sounds on cold start up.
If the engine is quiet when at full operating temp, no worries.
If it still rattles at full operating temp, then there are issues to be concerned about.
right. i'm finding it to be with the 2nd gen's that had the pan' roofs. the 1st gens i've seen with the "regular" sunroofs were still pretty ample, though. just from photos, they seem a bit bigger than the one in my 4runner, so that's nice
roger that, on the pistons....
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doubtful it was transmission dependent. The 5spd is just a hard find on itself.. If you were really ambitious though, you can replace a Subaru roof skin with a sunroof skin not that easy but doable
well, shucks
yeah, i did some reading up on AM sunroofs. there were two brands that came up as quality to my recollection. that option is last resort
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nearly the same? haha...okay, so mileage is on par
hey.....i'm having a real hard time finding 1st gen's with sunroof and 5spd. was that even an option? or did the sunroof models all come with 4eats?
broken bolt in caliper mounting bracket; repair options
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by thook44
hmm...nevermind