thook44

would you help me clarify? my 2.2L is not a phase I motor, right? phase 1 is when the 2.2L became interference?

crazy project...hehe don't care about obd-2. i've lived and worked with obd-1 for so long. i know about obd-2, but can't say i feel i'm missing anything. and, resale? pffth...i run my cars until they die yep...the '94 is cable speedo. now, you're bringing up points i had not considered nor seen really mentioned in my searches. granted, i've just really begun digging into this subject. this gives me some things to think about and more questions to formulate, though. thank you!

i've done a number of timing assemblies. i'm aware of the importance of the doing everything and with quality parts.... i did a valve adjustment on a 3vze 4runner for some friends with a shop here in winslow. a week later i went back in for something unrelated and they informed me they were having to redo the timing assembly because the idler pulley on the water inlet failed. it just blew up. it was a new kit they put in before i'd adjusted the valves. and, it was from o'reilly. the kit i put in my suby a few months ago was full japanese kit i bought online from a reputable retailer. even though this motor.....and that 3vze....are non-interference, it is still a pita to get towed and have to start all over. and, that kit that failed in my old 22re 4runner may have been an o'reilly kit. can't say...i had someone else do it (a certified toyota tech, actually) because i had no clue on vehicles at that time. i thought that kit should've gone longer, but it didn't. one day i turned the key to start it and <<<<plink!!!!>>> i could hear the chain snap and smack the cover. that was expensive because at the age of that motor it didn't make a lot of sense to just fix the head and replace the timing kit. i went ahead and did a full rebuild; cylinder hone, new bearings and rings, anyway. everything else was still well within factory tolerances i don't know...i'm warming up to the idea of an interference motor, but i still haven't read/heard of any real reason as to why i couldn't just do a full swap out from say my '94 to say that '04 in one of the ads i posted. again, i'm not necessarily seeking plug and play. (forget the variable valve timing option) edit: come to think of it, the tech may have gotten the kit from the toyota dealer since he used to work there.....and, actually went back to them not long after working on my vehicle

yes...it is indeed a 2001 in the pic. hence the factory sunroof/2001 reference. i just posted it for fun not sure what you mean "merge" an older ecu. unless you mean running in tandem? this leads me to suspect you may still not understand what is i'm asking at this point

....(nevermind this...having trouble figuring editing feature)

oh, the lust.... https://i0.wp.com/offroadsubaru.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/IMG_3737.jpg right?..lol! so, i was talking to my wife about all this stuff and she's like..."uh, what about the sunroof?"...haha! well, those didn't come factory until 2001. hmmm...

dude, some of that jargon is beyond me....lol! nevertheless, i'm pretty sure i know what you're talking about this still doesn't address my round about question, though; what if ecu's (harnesses...everything) are swapped out? i can't imagine it's any different than any toyota 4x4 engine swap, but the world is weird at times

i see. but, are the mounts in the same location? i was told recently all ej mounts interchange. currently, i'm reading up on all the differences. i still haven't gotten to what the heck variable valve timing means in relation to all this. i'm guessing, though, different heads, sensors, wiring, and ecu atleast no matter....don't think i want to get into a variable valve timing thing. i'm guessing, also, that's where valve interference is with some of these motors? not piston to valve...just valve to valve

ohhhh!!! the ej222 is interference....hmmm. because of dohc's? looks like i'd have to stick with a pre '96 ej22 to get non interference okay....are ya'll saying my motor won't work....because it's not plug and play? i read the ej short blocks are the same...which would mean my motor would bolt right into an ej forester mounts? (answered this for myself)

one more thing....and this is just out of curiosity....although i'd do it if it was doable, but it's not a big thing at all i've seen the older suby's with the 4bolt hub drilled to six bolt configuration to fit yota wheels, for example. is anyone swapping these older hubs to newer models...ie, the forester? is even remotely doable? i was just thinking...man, if so, i've got my old 4rnr steelies nicely painted with flat black. they look like the ones on that white forester pic above. https://i.pinimg.com/originals/11/40/e7/1140e76a6e7b00d38994770b52c0a871.jpg edit: lol...not 10 min after posting it occurred to me those older cars probably had drums atleast the rear. oh well....

yeah, there's that...lol. but, isn't that what loud buzzers are for? don't get me wrong. i do like that the headlights turn off when you shut the car off. but, you know, if they could install a switch for parking lights, why not also with the headlights? i'm just b****ing a little...hehe. i've got a chain/gate at the top of the hill when entering my drive (a gravel road 1/8mi). i have to get out of the car, of course, to lock and unlock it. and, since my parking brake doesn't work...hasn't worked...it means i have to leave it in gear and turn the car off. at nights, it's dark in the woods!!! and, more than once i've left my headlamp at home.

thank you all so much for the replies. i looked around for a swap thread. i guess it's not stickied or anything? i'll keep looking one other thing i've not mention is my aversion to interference engines. my old 22re is one. when the timing chain broke, bent six valves. my fault, but that's one reason the 2.2L is appealing to me. perhaps the main reason now, i have read enough to understand there are engine designations that distinguish one 2.2 from another. likewise with the 2.5. and, atleast with the sohc 2.5's i read about good results with the mls headgaskets. that was a solution for early 3vze's that were blowing back in the 90's. i did have to put another 3vz in my wife's '92 4rnr, but that was due to prior mechanic error. spun a main bearing. then, i had to rebuild the top end on the new motor....again due to prior mechanic error. scored cams and burned valve due to broken cam guide. i've not had any similar issues since, but i've also never had any head gasket issues even without the mls gaskets. it doesn't have a lot of power relative to it's displacement, but it's reliable and it's non interference. i like that just fine. (btw, the ej221 has nearly as much horsepower as my 3vze and pushing a much lighter vehicle. and, more hp than the 22re that has slightly more displacement, so...) i guess what i'm saying is if the 2.5 is interference AND needs "special" fussing to keep it healthy (more power or not) again i'd rather stick with 2.2L's....whatever designation it is. nevertheless, i will certainly read more up on it. one more thing...about swapping logistics; the 3.4L/ 5vze is a popular swap out for the 3vze in the 90's model trucks and 4runners. it's a bit involved, but still quite doable. can't remember if the block is a bolt up and go, or if mounts need moving, but the rest....well, it's not plug and play. definitely have to swap out everything down to the ECU. there was a time when i seriously considered the swap for our '92, but after seeing prices drop over the years for used 3rd gen 4rnrs i blew it off. still, it was work i was willing to do for some extra towing power since that's mostly what we use the vehicle for. so, with a suby, i'm not looking for plug and play necessarily, but i will weight that in. for now, i will look into the differences between the ej221 and ej222....since the older forester style would still be my first choice oh, and the tranny issue.....will this "swap thread" go into that, as well? i know..the 4eat is a great unit, but i still prefer standards. i briefly glanced at a 5spd low range option/modification or something. intrigue!

okay....prime example: https://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-subaru-forrester-for/6247554757.html $850!! again, not really the year (or color) i'd like, but if they came down a bit even from that, i could learn to like it.

hello folks.... first, let me apologize if this post goes into subjects beaten to death, already. however, i just found an ad for an '08 forester w/panoramic sunroof, blown motor, very clean, auto tranny, etc for $1800. i've been doing some reading here and there about my ponderings, but my curiosity is ahead of my education level about the ad, i'm thinking great deal though a bit newer in style and features than i'd currently want. there are details about the slightly older models i appreciate. more simplicity and a distinct appearance the older ones have; color options, body style, blah, blah, blah so, i'm thinking if i can run across an ad like this maybe i could one across one at some point that would be more to my preference. i would like a forester, but a late 90's or earlier 2k model. and, i would prefer a standard 5spd tranny. sunroof would be swell, but i could live without it questions..... say i do find an ad more to my liking, i've been reading about swapping in a 2.2L; the current motor in my legacy would work great and my skills are up to the task. could i also swap in my 5spd if what i find is an auto? it's low miles and i just put the thing in not too long ago. also, do the 2.2L respond well to rebuilds? i don't want to mod it out heavily to ramp the power, though simple little tweaks like boring out and head/block decking i might could go with. i mean, right now the engine's running great, but doing a swap i may decide to go ahead and freshen it up. kinda depends on where the compression is, i guess now, having said all that, let's say i find an ad similar to the one i just found at a point i can actually move on it and i've flexed on my current preference for the older styles, could i still swap in my 2.2L and 5spd? the ad: https://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/d/2008-subaru-forester-awd/6278881592.html current vision/dream: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/11/40/e7/1140e76a6e7b00d38994770b52c0a871.jpg if you read this and decide to respond, please feel free to also share links/threads you're aware of that would help me in my suby quest. much appreciation in advance!

cool. that gives something to base a search on, alteast. the guy at fastenal asked me the range i wanted. i had no f'n idea what he was talking about....ha! anyway, i gotta mock stuff up tomorrow...make sure this idea's even gonna work before i start buying stuff and fab'ing. regardless of that, i killed the mudflaps i had a long time ago, so i'm gonna go all diy and i think the rivnuts would be good for it. plus, i may even do a rally type bar up front with some low profile auxilliary lights. i think rivnuts would be useful there, too. hopefully i can wire those into the parking light switch on the steering column. kinda sucks you can't use the headlights once the car is shut off. who's idea was that? dorks. plus, aux lighting will come in handy at night in the woods sometimes. not to mention the night time highway fog near the river......like tonight

hey, man....i had this brilliant idea this morning. i just didn't think of it before, i've got a thule rack with mounts like this: https://avtoshara.kiev.ua/products_pictures/thule-960-1.jpg i have rather long clips for them. so, i figure i can install rivnuts, mount my gutter style pieces of metal to them, drill a hole through the middle of the clip, and run a bolt through a hole in the middle of the gutter piece between the bolts holding the gutter piece to car body. this way the stress of the load is on the feet of the crossbars/top of the car and not on the rivnuts. i didn't want to use a clip style system before i started this thread because I don't like they tend to shift under certain stress. but, the bolt through the clip will keep that from happening, you see? anyhow, the real point here is i tried to order some rivnuts from the fastenal here. they don't have them in stock, but i can order a bag and get a bulk price. the fella couldn't quote me a price, though, without knowing the grip range. would you happen to remember the grip range of the rivnuts you installed?

this is what monabea....my lego...would look like were the paint not faded and had no rust and holes. i don't have the dents like this'n, but everything is the same down to the wheels. the AM rack is nearly the same, too...lol http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3022/2971059994_4baccaf774.jpg

i had most if not all of it's records, but. tossed what was irrelevant...which was most. it was originally from somerset, ma. from there, it went to a couple of other places up in the northeast and eventually down here wherein my neighbor bought it, beat it for a little while, and then sold it to me for $800. it's got some rust on the body....like around a couple of fenders, some of the window trim, and spots on the hood, but underneath it's been pretty clean....surprisingly. i'll be addressing that pretty soon, though. the roads aren't salted very much here since it's costly and we don't normally see a lot of snow, but the climate is still hard on steel. hence my '86 4runner is no longer road worthy.

cool. yeah...i was able to gently pry some trim back far enough to get a gander at some tabs. looks like some disconnect by pulling away sideways/up/down from adjacent pieces. but, it was also dark with a headlamp on, so.... i hope to start getting it apart this week. there's some repairs she's needing, as well. done some already. been time consuming and what not thanks!!!

i did not measure wrong, for sure. i compared side to side. they were not compatible. so, an o'reilly screw up. not the first time it's happened. in fact, friday i had to go back yet again because they gave the wrong exhaust gasket that goes before the muffler. it was too small. and, i have a subaru oem exhaust set up. anyhow, thank you much for all the input. i'll be looking at the P brake cable towards the middle/end of this week coming. i've got a leak in the top of the fuel tank, too. engh...lots of things to repair...lol! the rear end links are bad, too

well, i've done a couple hours of web reading.....and a lot of thinking. the load force is distributed flat on your roof....downward and across. on mine, it would have to be on the sides of the roof since it's a gutter mount type attachment. my wagon is a gt and has the raised sides to do that. so. load forces would play differently with mine on the thin metal. not saying i wouldn't be fine like you to go with nutserts...i just don't know. i still have serious doubts it will hold well. i do know it would always bug me wondering if it's going to fail also, other considerations are cost of the tool and/or time. i'd want to make a tool since i'll likely only use it this once and likely i already have all the pieces needed. that would mean my only real expensive would be some hardware and maybe adhesive. not much $, true, but after the time spent making a tool and waiting on shipped hardware (for quality inserts) i'm figuring i could have the liner out. so, i'm just going to go that route. i have a tool for pulling interior trim. not sure if it'll be applicable here, though. it will on some fasteners, but not all...that i can see, anyway i even thought of fab'ing some metal that would attach to the factory mounting holes in the roof. you know..... flat and bolted up on top, but then bending over at an angle following the line of the roof's side. that'd be bomber, albeit more complex. anyhow, still looking for input on interior. the exterior i'll just blow out with a compressor and pressure washer

parking brake cable and drums are operational. i could see the cables move and hear the drums working today. gonna need some lube for sure. all squeaky like old bed springs. i haven't actually taken things apart to look, though. hopefully i can do that next week. i want to see if the shoes need replacing before bothering to adjust

ooops...wrong thread

the bolt pattern did not match up on the round style mounts to my original mounts....being the square style. iow's, the two bolts that insert through the mounting bracket were not of the same distance apart. plus, the round mounts were thicker. perhaps they were 2.5L mounts? seems unlikely o'reilly would screw up that bad on parts matching, though. no matter. the deed's done and no more motor jiggle. nice and smooth. my friend that helped could actually squeeze/flex my old mounts a bit by hand.

yeah, i don't know, man. after reading some reviews in somewhat similar applications, not sure i feel too good about the rivut idea. i have concerns the insert hole would wallow out after time. i do live on a very rough road. hmmm....