thook44

seriously?? you think the sheet metal of the roof will be stout enough to handle the load with that method? i might haul light loads of scrap lumber i find from time to time (less than the max weight limit for the rack.....which i think is around 200lb), but mostly just a couple of bicycles. i am skeptical, but i'm also open if you have indeed done this without issue. it does look to be a chore getting all that interior junk down....even without breaking something. so, if i can skip doing that, boy...i'd be happy. the set up i had on the fiberglass top of my 4runner was with steel backing plates and stainless bolts/washers. i'd ripped the gutters off...since they're just fiberglass....so i'd effectively made new gutters with some angle iron and cutting/ripping one side short on a table saw with a cut off blade. worked great since the pieces i made were long enough...approx 16in or so....giving me room for adjusting load bar distance i wonder if harbor freight has the same kinda tool. we have one not too far from me. i'll have to research...

i'd tried adjusting at the handle when i first tried to make the brake work. had it maxed and still wouldn't do anything i have a screwdriver i bent for starwheel adjustments i made a long time ago. i'll be looking at the P brake assembly tomorrow.....including pads. just finished putting in new motor mounts last night. funny thing....it's a '94 model, but it has the '95 mounts. which meant i had to go back and get the right ones...the square ones. the first ones they gave me were the round style.

i want to install yakima gutter mount style rack on my lego. it's off my old 4runner. also, it's what i've got and it's in really good shape. so, i need to pull the headliner down to drill holes and install the hardware. looking at the trim it looks like i might have to pull a bunch of stuff down? is there an easy or minimal way to go about this bypassing unnecessary steps/pulling stuff i don't need to and without breaking stuff? i just need the headliner down from the rear seats on back also, there's a lot of crud built up inside/behind the exterior trim along the tops of the doors; dirt, leaf debris, etc. as well, some ants have made a nest in one section along the top of the front pass door. my main concern is rusting over time. it'd be nice to get the ants gone, too.....without spraying poison. (just not my thing ) but, if i can get the trim off, i can clean it better. otherwise, perhaps my compressor and nozzle will do the job guidance, anyone?

thanks! yeah,i hadn't considered the cable/s might be seizing. the brake works a little, so i know there's atleast some movement, though i'd forgotten about the parking brake shoes. it was years ago since i've looked at them. will check on that, too

i've had all kinds of popping sounds crop up in the front end over the course of a couple of recent years on my '94 legacy wagon. and, in that time, i've had to change ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar end links, and most recently i need to change out the motor mounts. i don't know how many miles on your vehicle, but i will say any of these parts can make popping sounds when bad. i'd say if you're not having steering/control issues, then perhaps look at the motor mounts or end links. neither will effect steering/control, but can/will pop when the vehicle leans. and, i'm speculating here, but perhaps the rubber....motor mounts..are getting softer as the engine heats??? i should also say, atleast in the case of motor mounts, i could not replicate the motor mount popping noise unless i was driving...eg, bouncing the suspension with body weight did nothing to make it pop.

just wanted to post some notes to this subject... got the manifold welded up nicely at a local seeburg .....from the split section at the head all the to the cat replaced. however, it still sounded like a lawnmower. took it home and discovered the muffler was toast. sounded like a can of dry beans rattling about once i got it off. got all that done only to find my motor mounts were/are bad. this contributed to if not entirely caused the need for this last manifold repair. grrrr. yeah...i've had a popping/clanking sound from the front end crop up during the time of this manifold issue. replacing a bad'ish 2yr old ball joint and fairly worn sway bar end links didn't fix it. and, since the rest of the front end has had complete renovations over the past year or so it had to be something else. a large pry bar revealed the culprit. the mounts must have been going bad for some time

hey all the parking brake is for doo, now. adjusted all the way and still won't do any good on hills....even the mildest of. i learned there is a front and a rear cable trying to find a replacement. so, my questions are is one more typical of needing replacement than the other, and how should i go about deducing which if not both actually are at fault? nothing is visually apparent to me. i've got a friend who could help me with this, but he's gone for another whole week on business and....well...i live in the hills. i believe it is the rear that is much more costly than the front (?) and i'd rather not buy unnecessarily, you see. help would be appreciated! thanks! oh, and guidance on best sourcing for parts in this matter would be great, too. i'm looking at local auto or online right now

thanks, folks, issue resolved. with this integrated cat thing, the easiest cheapest way to go will be to have a repair section welded in. but, now i know of options for the future if/when i actually need to also replace the cat. thanks!!!

out of curiosity, what would you be asking for one of those goodies? this repair is turning out to be more costly than i'd figured.

is the 95+ a side mount cat or something? edit: nevermind. i see how they mount and are shaped. again, at an angle instead of straight on

right. the tail end section takes a sharp turn away from the direction this original manifold goes. iow's, right angle vs a straight continuation

thank you anyway, john. not a prob and, thank you anyway, larry. turns out the section can be just cut out and have a sleeve/repair section welded back in. i just didn't realize it possible due to the location

sweet! message sent. thanks!

i could use some help finding a new manifold for my legacy wagon. mine has the cat and O2 port right at the junction. i'm having trouble finding anything like it online. is there an alternative? one without the cat but with the port that will still be a direct fit? i'm going to call around tomorrow at some salvage yards with hope, but last i checked they had nothing as old as my car. thanks! ps. $100 +/- a few would be about right for the budget. otherwise, i'll just have to weld this one up, again. had it welded right after the junction under the head, but the weld is failing. so, not sure how long another weld will even hold

i finished everything up friday and was driving her by today. all is well, again. those kyo bearings are nice. needle bearings! (vs the MP ball bearings) so, ought'a last a good long time well, that concludes this thread i do believe. thanks to all who contributed!

turns out the bearings i put in were actually the master pro. oopps! a tad embarrassing given what i already said. hmmm....i suppose i thought the saved $20 over the national was worth it and MP bearings were sufficient. still can't say why the bearing failed. nothing was apparent. nevertheless, i'm putting in a national/kyo bearing, now! didn't finish today. ran into a few challenges getting things apart and using the right tools, etc. tomorrow i plan to be finished, though

finally mustered the motivation to pull the knuckle off and inspect the bearing. yep...bad. just enough play to cause a vibration, although it's very little. not sure why there's play, yet. gotta get to the friend's shop tomorrow and press it apart. but, gotta order another bearing, first. anyhow, figured i'd update thus far

yeah...no worries. it happens a lot

on my way into town tonight, i found a stretch of road in which there were some hard, uphill, lengthy'ish right turning curves. i purposely took them at a good clip and leaned hard into them thereby unloading the passenger side.....where the suspect bearing is. sure enough, the noise stopped. so, i'm more sure now it is the front wheel bearing pass side. i'm just going to try another national, though. it's under warranty still and i can have it by wednesday rather than later ordering a timken or whatever online. i'll update once it's done

it was national bearings i got. they only offer two brands for the '94, and i know i didn't get the masterpro with only a 1yr warranty. anyhow, does still sound like a bearing with the symptoms. i'm in arkansas. yes...there's also a winslow here. though, without the tumbleweeds and cactus.

btw, gentlemen....thanks so much for some input. this is the first suby...or even awd vehicle...i've had. not too far removed from 4wd's, i suppose. nevertheless, the suby is still kinda foreign land to me. you guys have any early efi yotas...feel free to ask me any questions about'em.

yep...it's a 5spd not a big fan of auto's in general. i do like them towing a trailer around the hills, though....ironically, i guess. i could have clarified better earlier, but i'm not concerned with the cv's themselves. just the diff where the cv's connect. well, more the wheel bearings, now. but, still...the diff was my original concern because of the slop i mentioned. and, i'm still gonna look at it just to know right. i used a bearing press a few months ago to do the change out at my friend's shop. i discovered the originals were bad when i was doing the ball joints, steering rack, tie rods, control arm bushings, and struts. again, they're o'reilly bearings. i've used o'reilly bearings before without issue, but that's not to say i got some iffy parts. that's happened before, too, with other things. a few years ago i went through two freakin' fuel pumps within a short time on the '92 4rnr before o'reilly finally went to a better brand after repeated warranty replacements with their customer base. sucked because i'd had to drop the tank far from home both times...in the middle of the night.....in 3ft of snow...both ways...

i'm running a gl-5 M1 synth now, but since the redline mt90 works so great in my '86 4rnr 5spd i thought i'd switch to it. however, i've done a little reading. mixed reviews on what to use, but many suggest 75w-90 redline vs the mt90 because of the diff. i'm not really liking the M1 in there. didn't like in the 4rnr, either. not sure why i thought it would be any different in the suby. i mean, the shifting is okay...just not "butta" how i'd like. kinda sticky downshifting into 4th at 45-50pmh, actually. bugs me out. maybe i'll go to the castrol someone mentioned in another thread i found. i did the bearing install myself a few months ago (plenty of experience with those things). everything seated well in the knuckle using a press, but i'm afraid perhaps i didn't torque well on the spindle. or maybe i got it too tight. don't know. i'll just have to look at it tomorrow. otoh, it's an o'reilly bearing. i wanna say national. don't remember offhand. and, no change with the clutch in or out. and, again, no change with engine rpm.

I've only visually check the u-joints and that was a few months ago. I went to see about greasing them and found they were sealed/no lube points. I even grabbed the shaft and shook it real hard, but there wasn't any play. having said that, I didn't have all 4 wheels off the ground and so haven't checked for any binding. i'll check all that this week. again, though, the vibration gets worse into those left hand curves. i'll post what I find thanks!

well, now i'm wondering if isn't a bad bearing install. I noticed driving into work this morning that the noise became louder as the car leaned into left turns on the highway. I managed to find some adequate search terms and dug some info on what's apparently a common issue. I hope, in a way, it's a bearing and not the differential. still a PITA to do the bearing, again, if that's the problem. but, even more so if it's the diff. mating the tranny up to the motor was a royal beetch