thook44

drill the hole. had to do that with my 4runner headlights....although in the housing since the lens is glass. sealed up everywhere else with rtv, but now not even condensation can build up. the heat from the lamp keeps it burned off

i'm in the middle myself with regards to driving. and, of course, mileage depends largely on where and how you drive. but, i figure there's likely to be a solid comparative between the engines. sometimes with engines, though, it just doesn't matter how you drive.... you're not gonna get great mileage. so, i ask. if i wind up with an ej25 i'd be happy with 27/28mpg or close your regular driving sounds much like mine; living in the country and most miles on the highway getting to a city. i do live in arkansas, so some areas are just a lot of hills. in fact, my house/land is right on the side of a mountain. i can get up top of my house and see clear through the valleys and foothills of the boston mtns more south of me....though my driving does tend to go north where it levels out more. and, geez.... i avoid the interstate if at all possible! people drive too fast and too close. a lot of accelerator with a lot of risk so, this piston slap.....i'll read up on it, but since it's apparently an inherent issue, is it leading towards any premature rebuilds with owners at all? or is it just one of those quirks like the 3vze that has noisy injectors or the 22re with a noisy valvetrain; lots of noise, but no appreciable detriment? see, at this point, i'm figuring when i get a forester, with the right build, it can serve as a back up if/when my 4runner is down and i still need to pull my trailer. either the ej20 or 25 would be as strong or stronger than the V6 in it. just wouldn't tow with the forester unless i had to since it doesn't have a solid axle and is a good deal lighter

i see. scratch that idea, then... been seeing a lot of foresters up close lately. two even just saturday with the pan' roofs. one was parked in front of where i work wherein i could take a really good look at it. yep....still really prefer the 1st gen body style foremost. however, if an '03-'05 does pop up clicking all the other boxes to my liking, i'll go with it. as well, hopes for swapping in my 22, or having an N/I motor at all, have waned substantially considering all factors involved (some not discussed here). needless to say, anything prior to '01 is totally off the board. but, i am still gonna have my 5spd, dang it...haha! as for a motor, i'm a lot more comfortable with the idea of a sohc 2.5L, now. until digging deeply into this, i had not realized the hg issue was an external leak vs the internal leakage of the dohc. i'd only heard stories. and, since the updated hg's appear to fix that, a non-issue it is. having said that, the ej20 does appear to get better gas mileage. (yay? nay?) i'll look more into it

no, no.....i understand what makes an engine in general interference or not. i've had my 22re. what i mean is there was a change in design with the ej engines that made them interference. where i've read, some said it was entirely due to a redesigning of the pistons. someone/s else said there was also a change in the cylinder head design. so, i'm trying to get clarity on that....particularly in relation to the ej20. reason... i read at nasioc some guys throwing ej20's heads on ej22e blocks. pretty sure they're talking about phase I blocks, too. so, i'm wondering....okay....ej20 on the ej22 block. would it be non-interference? or, would the ej20 heads still make it interference? you see where i'm going with this? oh...and that info. i don't remember offhand how or where i found it. i'd have to go through my history on my computer at home to find the link. i've been trying to compile study material...lol

i did manage to find that it's the ej204 with dohc that gains 155hp. other ej20 versions not so much hp

thanks, heartless hehe.....yeah, like i also said (or implied).... it just depends; if i had the money and an '03 or something showed up for the right price needing a motor, was a 5spd, was the right color, had the sunroof ('cause you know...my wife), it'd be real hard to pass on it. that eklund guy's suby looks pretty sweet. doesn't have the sunroof, but still.... okay.... more on that ej20. i'm really looking around the web, but i just haven't found the info, yet. what is it about the ej20 that makes it interference? is it like the ej25.... the piston design? or would the heads/valvetrain design also have anything to do with it? also, how is it that ej20 gains more hp than the ej22e with a tad less displacement? again, piston/valvetrain design? having less tolerance between piston crown and valves?

iow's, pertaining to that second question, if on overseas '00 forester came with (or can run) an ej20 and a usdm '03-'05 came from factory with a phase II ej25 yet can run an ej20 but a usdm '02/'01/'00 cannot...what gives?

what makes the ej20 series an interference engine? i read the phase II ej's (usdm, atleast) are because of the change in piston design. did it have anything to do with cylinder head changes (sohc) as well? also, and why not earlier than '03? say to an '01? ecu/jecs and triggers?

"god" quality, eh? with that, i'd think i'd be able to go infinitely.... well, you don't know until you dig, right? it's an itch i have to scratch. but, you (all) do have a valid point and it's not escaped me. it is a lot of work. but, so is rebuilding an engine if for whatever reason the timing set fails in whatever way. i'm not sure what'll happen. depends on where i'm at financially, what actually manifests, and what i'm up for at the time i'm ready to do something. set on N/I? call it more of a strong leaning and thorough examination of the option at the onset of this, i was surprised to be finding chassis's at prices within my reach, and i got excited over the idea of possibly being able to just drop my motor/tranny in and have a forester. (my legacy has been needing a lot of major repair and could have nearly paid for a forester chassis by now) i knew, of course, there'd have to be some things to tweak and work around...just had to find out what. now, i have a really good idea of what's possible and what'd be required weighing in my preferences. (thank you all!) my friend did a westy/suby conversion not too long ago. talk about a b***** of a job,. and, he did it all by his lonesome. worth it? he's got everything he wanted in a project recreation vehicle....save maybe 5spd's and a syncro. but, whatever...

not sure what sizes/dimensions you're dealing with, but it looks to me possibly a baby bottle nipple...either human or livestock. some of those livestock ones are pretty stout, too (leave it to someone in rural arkansas to come up with that idea )

"quench"....i didn't know what it was called, but i had thought about that issue after i posted. "unstable/compatible"....fair enough. curious, though...in what way does it become unstable? you mean just in overall runability/smoothness? or would it be prone to early failure in some areas.....like headgaskets or ignition stuff?

if i do change my mind on the issue, that'll be the one i go with. sounds good. thanks! okay, but it's still interference. i understand; quality timing kit, regular interval.....bulletproof. nevertheless... ivans imports made some postings in another thread about using '94/earlier 2.2L heads on a 2.5L engine with the 2.5 thicker gaskets thereby making it non-interference. do you know what he's going on about? i'm just wondering if that road may solve my dllemma. of course, another dude contradicts that... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141498-why-do-you-guys-love-the-ej22-confused/page-2 it's kinda funny because i'd been wondering along the lines of this idea. i mean, if heads and block are decked, people can create more compression, but it increases piston to valve tolerance. so, what if by some mechanical means a motor...of whatever combo/build/mod....could be made non interference. the mechanics have change, but the electronics have not. of course there's crank and cam rotation dynamics to consider, but what's being changed here is the valve/piston clearance. and, of course, there'd be a potential loss in compression and hp, but how much and how could that be compensated for? and, how much would it matter?

lol.....pieces are coming together this is the thread i found yesterday i mentioned in a previous post potentially having relevant info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145455-phase-1-ej22-in-to-2000-forester-ej20-help/

oh really????!!!!! i will look into this! that's the motor you mentioned before, right? which vehicles are those typically found in from factory? yeah, not much diff between 155 and 165. piston slap issues are nil? meaning what? it's a non-interference motor? edit: i see....they were not available on the usdm...hence jdm. so, i'm not going to find one sitting in a salvage lot around here (i'm learning the ropes... )

years ago i wrecked my wife's '92 4runner. the body and frame were twisted up a bit enough that the windshield was broken and a pillars were out of alignment. needless to say, it was january and raining. water all in the passenger side kickpanel where much of the chassis electricals are and the ecu and fuel pump relay reside. ecu was toast, but i did save everything else. there is an electronic component spray you can get that will dry/clean things without leaving a petro distillate residue (wd-40). just an option. it's what i got when this happened. just don't recall what it's called. pretty sure o'reilly is where i got it, though

excellent! i wish i could find better stuff for my yotas like this. online, anyway. well....maybe they're around and i just haven't been able to find them, yet. still, the hard copies are $$$

got it. thank you i decided late last night that if, in the future, i did change my mind on the interference issue i'd go ahead with a sohc 2.5L and mls headgaskets if it needed them....ie, if they're not already installed. i'm reading with a phase II 2.2L there's only a 10% increase in power going to the interference configuration. the 2.5L 165hp seems worth the potentials of interference and the mls seems to be a good fix on the hg issue. am i right?

i replaced my struts months ago. front mounts, too. funny you should mention AM kyb's being a bit stiffer. the rear end of my lego wagon has the droops and has been bottoming out too much on my road. as a temporary fix, until i can make my strut spacers (next week), i put in some lifters in the coil springs. made the rear end a good bit stiffer....and i'm finding i really like it that way. so, when i install my spacers, now i'm thinking i'll put the kyb's in.....since i already have them (see my first post in this thread for clarification)

kyb makes subaru's struts? did not know that...thanks

found this looking for info and manuals https://sl-i.net/FORUM/index.php

how much more clearance? up to 34mm's, from what i read, you could install spacers at the strut mount without affecting alignment. i'm making some spacers for my '94 legacy to correct the sagging rear and run a slightly taller tire

i've got a '94 legacy wagon. i could not find new springs when i looked for new struts. but, i did some reading and got some kyb's. then i actually broke a spring and had to find some used struts from a totaled legacy to get the springs. it came with oem suby struts. very nice. but, honestly, not any better than the new kyb's i have the kyb's for later when these suby struts wear out. i live on a country road, so i wanted something that behaved well on the constant action of rough terrain...not just something that responded well enough to minor variations on pavement or the occasional bump into a driveway. i have what i think works best weighing in price new springs will certainly help you regain stance. but, another inch? depends how much your old/current springs have actually drooped from the original height....if you're talking acquiring new oem springs. when i put new springs....brand new....in my '92 4runner, it was a big difference. an inch, atleast. never measured, but the vehicle doesn't sag in the rear anymore. it's level....maybe even a little raked. and, the ride quality is tremendously different. those old coils were like riding on 2x4's.

oh, and matt....my name is matthew. nice to meet you.

hmmm....sounding promising. thank you so kindly if you don't mind and know where a good one is online, i'm going to need a wiring diagram/layout to study for the ecu on an '01 forester....or whatever year around that that'll be similar in nature. iow's, if the sunroof's didn't happen until '01, that's where i want to continue exploring...up to whatever year this becomes even more crazy or impossible. '02, you say? btw, what happens in '03/'04 that changes the dynamic? wire extension and connector swaps are not a prob. i had to do a bit of that on the '92 since the replacement motor that wound up with head failure (mentioned above) was from an '89 edit: wait...are you saying with the impreza harness i could go up to a 2004 model? and, would i still need a different intake manifold?

if you wouldn't mind, let's explore this last statement a smidge.... you're saying '98 harness/cluster into a 1999-2002 with my '94 motor? or the impreza harness....again...with my motor? there's a chance i could get my hands on the '98 harness and cluster IF the guy i know still has his parts cars. but, with the impreza i'd have to shop around. what are those minor adjustments, though? i found a thread going into a pretty odd swap like i'm considering. not sure if the info in it is relevant, yet. i'll keep reading oh, and is the speed sensor for the forester....say a 2001...at all ecu controlled or dependent? and, does it also control the tach? the one in my '92 4rnr assists in a/t shifting function. when it goes south, the tach, speedo, shifting, everything gets really weird..haha.