Rallyru
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Posts posted by Rallyru
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Well there doesn’t seem to be enough interest to part it out and I still haven’t gotten anybody who’s seriously interested so looks like I’m keeping it. Fine by me haha
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The 5 speed dual range holds up just fine with a transfercase behind it. I almost never need to use the transmission low range anyways but it’s nice to have. An ej22 will do just fine. I have an ej25d and have never felt like I need more power. An EZ would probably break the samurai transfercase. They crack easily with high torque and/or high power. The Ford 8.8 is another rear diff option. Factory they are 59.5” but can be narrowed down to 56.5”ish with factory parts. Don’t really know what to do about the front.
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Somebody buy this thing! $5000. There’s a hatch nearby that I want to go pickup. I’ve even been toying with the idea of parting it out if there is enough interest.
-Samurai transfercase with 4.16 gears and parking brake. Less then 500miles since rebuild $750
-Ea82 5 speed dual range $250
-Subaru to samurai drivelines (3) $600
-Welded r160 diff $100
-Phantom grip LSD r160 $200
-8 inch lift $600
-Hybrid ea81 rear axles $100
-Ej25d $150
-Engine adapter and flywheel $200
-17 gal RCI fuel cell $100
-33x9.5x15 sx2 mounted with wheel adapters $1100
-9000lb winch on hitch receiver $200
-Gl10 rear disk brakes complete $300
-16inch Billistein coilovers, need charged $500
-14inch King 2.0 coilovers $800
-Toyota MR2 aluminum 3 row radiator with rewelded outlets $150
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The best transfercase to use is the samurai as it has high range reduction and aftermarket support like gearing, shifters, driveline disconnects, and parking brakes. It also tucks up the highest. But the Nissan cases are easier to install as the outputs line up and the flanges are the same as Subarus.
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I researched transfercase swaps for about 6 months before I did mine. It’s been done for over a year and I think I’m still the most recent person to do it in an old Subaru (There’s a Foz in Australia on solid axles that’s fairly recent). I’ve also taken the most pics (to my knowledge).
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16 minutes ago, bratman18 said:
Ok, no biggie about needing a 6". How did you mount the front diff? Thanks for the info!
I used an old piece of mustache bar and welded it to the stock crossmember to support the front. For the rear I built a crossmember that bolts to the radious rod blocks and welded the stock mount to that. You can see the crossmember I built in the pic below before I welded the diff mount to it.
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I built my own crossmember to hold the engine. It won’t fit with a 4 inch lift. 6 is minimum but 8 is better. I have a samurai transfercase but Nissan 720 is the most common to swap in.
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The more I think about it, the more I want to build a rock crawler bug.
I already have a ‘67... but that’s still a long ways away haha
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In theory it’s really simple. Transmission in permanent 4wd to transfercase to diffs. Requires a minimum 6 inch lift and at that height you should already have the lift blocks connected so you build the mounts off of that. I put a transfercase in my ea81.
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The pajero snorkel fits the MY with a little heat. I have one on mine.
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Even though I’m trying to sell it, I still love this car.
It might not look too bad as a hatch. Assuming I can get the windows right. Haha
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The more I think about it, the more I want to build another lifted Subaru. I thought about using my Subaru to build it but I’d hate to strip out everything I’ve worked so hard to build just to start again. It’s actually easier to just start with a fresh car.
So the build plans are:
-GL hatchback
-40-44 inch tires
-Currie Fabricated Ford 9inch front and rear
-LS with 400-600hp
-Built 4L80e
-Atlas 4 speed transfercase
I know it sounds crazy and most wont like it because “It’s not Subaru” but that’s kinda the point. I just want to build it to be bulletproof. It’s only money, right?
If nobody buys my car and I get tired of looking for a hatch I’ll use my wagon. I’ve even been playing with the idea of shortening my wagon into a hatch but it would take a lot of metal work to make it look decent.
Either way it will be a lot of work. With that being said, anybody in the PNW have a Hatch for sale? The closer to St. Helens, OR the better haha.
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On 2/5/2019 at 10:46 AM, carfreak85 said:
Where is the ad?
So far I’ve only posted it on Facebook. I’m not trying very hard to sell it haha. Especially with the upcoming snowstorm the pnw is supposed to get next week
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/216671349178027/
Hopefully that link works haha
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Decided to list my Subaru for sale. It’s been fun but I need the money for my rx7 and upcoming bills. I’ll build another though.
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I run the Cardone axles with 0 issues. They turn my 33’s just fine.
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At the end of last year I went to the St Helens mud run and had a blast as usual but got myself into a little trouble haha
flipped the Subaru playing around. Had it flopped back over in 10 min and spent the rest of the day wheeling it was a good day. Going back again on the 26th
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Wow, it’s been a while. I made it to WCSS. Had a great time. Here are some random photos.
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30 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:
After 95 they all have internal stub diffs.
An adapter mount will accommodate the coil overs. There is room a plenty with very minimal mod. Nothing like mounting a full strut.
The trailing arm bracket on this rear end setup will sit nearly excactly were the front mount of the torsion tube is now. In fact It will be closer to the body. Trailing arms are nearly the same length.
If you’re talking about the factory shock mount that’s a bad idea. It’s not designed to be load bearing, Subaru themselves say not to use air shocks for that very reason.
The mounting brackets may sit the same but the lower links hang down really far compared to ea81 suspension.
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13 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:
yes I've been running that setup for 10+ years. I want to get rid of torsion for spring. it keeps failing...just not up to the added weight of lift, skids, tools, winch, etc..... So with the torsion gone, there is no reason to keep the diff snout so low below the arm pivots. Clearance at the diff suffers, in addition to all the inadequacies of hollow stubs and short, rare EA81 axle shafts. I could go to EA82 rear, but even that is getting more rare to find parts, uses the hollow diff stubs, and really guys break those rear axles all the time too. First gen EJ stuff would be great. the Legacies and imprezas I've seen wheelin seldom have rear diff or axle issues. But the ea81 body doesn't have good structure to mount a Macpherson setup back there without alot of unibody modification. Using this newer multilink setup allows me to adapt the mounts, rather than reworking the unibody.
Goal is to gain clearance at the diff with med/full loads, and have stronger diff and axles without losing travel over the EA81 setup. And hopefully more replaceable axles/wheel bearings later. Rear ebrake too.
The 1st gen EJ’s that you praise use the same hollow stub shafts, axle cups and diffs as ea82’s. No matter what setup you use it’s going to require you to cut up the unibody to mount coilovers in an ea81. What you gain in diff snout clearance you loose again by adding lower control arms that now hang down much lower at full suspension drop. Better brakes and wheel bearings are nice though.
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9 hours ago, FerGloyale said:
Yeah, I was gonna say that on a stock ish height car, you aren't gonna get a lot more out of this setup than stock. It's a lot of work for not much gain unless you can clear more tire. I can't imagine trying to do the cut and welds of the mounts with it on the car.
As for the handling on road....IDK......It's an experiment. It's not like the 8" lifted EA81 rear suspension was all that great........camber and toe all over the place as the torsion arm rotates through it's range.
Preliminary measurement actually shows just a little overall toe and camber change at extremes of the travel. The stock setup has that issue to some degree too. This is the infamous "ghost walk" rear setup. Those short links did in fact tug the wheel in to the body a lot both on compression and on droop. The longer arms keep the wheel "out" more overall. And that's with the wheels going a few extra inches of travel each way. I don't expect to be going thorugh full travel range on the highway......so as long as it's adjustable to a reasonably nuetral toe setting in the middle 6-8" of travel range it *SHOULD BE* ok.
It's an experiment. I want stronger rear axles that are still available if they do break. I will miss the ease of "popin in" an EA81 shaft with no tools.....but If this works I shouldn't need to do that much anymore.
I will say that moving the suspension through it's range "feels" easier now......Not as much torque on the bushings at the limits of their range.
Scalman, one thing I would recommend.....is to loosen EVERY pivot bolt in yer whole rear suspension while the car is in the air.......that alone will let the suspension bushing untwist, and allow a little more droop if you have any extra to be had. Then retighten bushings with the car just barely set down on the ground. (wood blocks under rear hubs) This "centers" the bushings so they aren't constantly fighting the suspensions movement as much. If you really want to take advantage of yer lift try to find a slightly longer shock to put in there. Not sure what there is in yer market.
Realistically the ea81 rear suspension is fine. Before I went to coilovers I had 14 inches of travel with only modified axles and an 8 inch lift. Use ea82 axle cups for more travel. I have 33’s and rarely break anything unless I’m being stupid
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What thickness did you use for the strut body’s? I’m about to build a similar set
Lifted Brat and Loyale build
in Members Rides
Posted
It’s still macpherson strut