Huffer

ebay usually has some taillights for that year...

It's not the driveshaft, it's the transmission mount (on my car). Thanks though!

Feel like I'm having a conversation with myself, but oh well, someone might get some use out of it... I went and spoke to Mel Kistner @ Halpert Subaru in Mentor, OH. He test drove my car for a spirited run around the area, came back and put the car on the hoist. Turns out my "wagging" car is because of a worn transmission mount, not the drivetrain etc. So that's a relief! The only downside is that the car also needs a new exhaust system because of 2 holes in the catalytic converter sections. All up, to fix the problems (vibration & rich running), Mel quotes me $1000 inc. labour.

Ok, just read some posts about torque bind. It does not feel like torque bind. I have no issues with cornering, in fact last night I took an onramp at 50mph with no issues. Back end felt like it might have stepped, but that is probably due to winter tires and the Cusco swaybar set for oversteer. Last night I was cruising home at 65mph. Popped it into N, and revved up. No problem - no shaking in the car like there was an exhaust part swaying under pressure. So I believe it's something to do with the transmission + driveshaft. Which is a bugger. I'm not confident I can diagnose this properly, so it'll be off to the local dealership.

Yup, that's me! Any posts you can point me to? And thank you!

Thanks you guys, USMB ROCKS!

Thanks for the reply - but what is a "ujoint"? I don't think it's the tires at all - the car hasn't been acting all squirrely, and it's only on acceleration - cornering, straightline cruising is fine. Am I on the right track?

Bump because I know someone here has something to say! On another forum, the driveshaft has been mentioned as a source of vibration. And that Subaru driveshafts can't be re-balanced, so it's replacement. ?

Dredging up an old post. My GT came with the standard subaru remote locking feature, but the control module has been unplugged, and the remote that came with it is crushed and pretty beat up. There are a bunch of auctions on ebay for Subaru remote fobs, can I buy them and use them with my car? Is there any programming that needs to be done? Theoretically I should be able to plug the module back in and be good to go, right?

Hey team Need some help. 1998 Legacy GT w/ 4EAT, 168,000 miles 2.5L The car is running pretty well at the moment, a little rich (suspect a new O2 sensor). My problem is that I have a wee bit of drivetrain vibration going on - usually from 1000 - 2500rpm, under acceleration and general driving. Sitting in the driver's seat, it feels like the car is "wagging" it's tail. Once I reach 60mph it's totally gone (the revs are on 2600rpm). What could it be? Torque convertor? Shagged AT? Loose or worn engine & transmission mounts?

bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump, engine management and exhaust system. Cost could be as huge as you want, but you will sacrifice your warranty... You could just chuck a 50hp of N20 in there, much less cost, and you theoretically attain your 300hp... Then again, you could just sell the Legacy and get an STI.

Mine certainly shifts hard - but it depends on the load. Sometimes if there's a load on the car it shifts smoother than if it was just me. It's almost like the car WANTS to launch!

Here's a link to a page that shows you where the valve is on an Impreza, it may be in a similar place for you. http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/pcv/pcv.html

That's a good point about the space saver wheel...however the owner's manual does highlight that you can tow with the front wheels off the ground, though only for short distances. I've always had a tow (twice) by flatbed only. It's safer too.

Not too sure on the earlier models, but on late 90s cars the FWD fuse is either in the fusebox in the engine bay, OR it's up by the passenger side on the firewall (behind the brake booster). IIRC, adding the fuse makes it FWD (and should ONLY be used for towing purposes to allow the rear wheels to free-roll). It should never be used on a permanent basis.

I should be more specific...I'm looking for an OE replacement that frees up the engine and gives me that characteristic burble. 2.25" inlet, 3-4" outlet, straight-thru baffled type. Prefer oval canister, but cannon style will work too...

For the 98 Legacy. I need to know who has a bolt up exhaust (muffler/silencer) and where you got it from. I don't want to pay someone to weld up a flange etc. to custom fit a backbox & hangers, if at all possible. So, show off!

Sounds really bad! I have 98 GT, and my speedo is intermittent. From what I understand on there are two speed sensors on the transmission. At one point my speedo did not hookup for a few miles, and that threw me a CEL. I drove home, using rpms to work out how fast I was travelling. Did an ECU reset and cleared the CEL. I find that my cruise control doesn't work when my speedo is out, and that this usually only happens in colder weather. I should also say that my auto tranny shifts fine even without the speedo...

Thanks guys, found a suitable socket wrench and the thing came loose after a few good pulls. I'm throwing the whole plug and gasket, fitting with a new one because the corners are a little rounded off now... WHEW! PS. You guys are QUICK on here!

Any tips for removing one? I've had PB blaster soaking on this sunnavabich for nearly an hour, and I am still having no luck getting it off. Also, just to confirm for me, which way should the plug be turning? Clockwise or anti-clockwise? Thanks, Grumpy

If you're going to pay someone to do the work, ship it to a known motorsport tuner (like ESX or someone) and tell them you want 350HP out of it. I assume you've done some research into pistons, turbo or supercharging, engine & fuel management etc?

Great! Thanks a lot for your help...hopefully someone can tell me where to check for the two speed sensors on the tranny... the one behind the dash (attached to it?) I can get to, I pulled the dash out awhile back with no problems.

Thanks!

Ok, well here's some other things I've discovered about this intermittent problem When the speedo fails: 1. The cruise control doesn't work 2. The 4EAT shifts exactly the same So I'm not sure but might it have something to do with the cruise control unit? I mean, if that unit sits in between the speed sensor and the speedometer, and intercepts the signal when I use CC?

Well SORRRREEEE buddy! This is my first 4EAT I've ever owned, my other car is 5MT so... Why don't you take the opportunity to educate us on the differences between the 5MT and 4EAT, because I don't know what they are.