[Evans Creek today in the imp, took 311 alone...]

 

next time i go out, I want to hit up Reiters, whos up for that?

 

 

im 5 minutes away. let me know and ill meet you. we can get shelby dirty.

[Changing The Oil: The Deisel Fuel Trick]

the diesel trick works great. ive done it to two toyotas before i did it to both my first subarus. the first toyota i did this to had 297K on it and i had to pull the pan after the 2nd round of treatment because so much crap came down, it wouldnt come through the drain hole!! after i pulled the pan and scraped it all out, i filled up a pop can with the top cut off with all the crap that came out!!

 

you dont fill up with diesel though. in a 4 - 5 quart system such as a subie, you do this mixture:

 

- 1 quart oil, not synthetic

- 2 quarts diesel

- 1 quart ATF

- top off whats left with oil

 

diesel is a cleaner that will do the most work breaking down all the gunk. the ATF is considered a "conditioner". dont worry about the diesel breaking down any rubber parts in the engine. because (1) as far as i know, there isnt any rubber where the oil gets to and (2) the diesel isnt in there long enough to do any damage.

 

start it up and idle it for about 10 to 15 minutes. drain your oil and check out all the crap that comes out. sometimes you WILL have to poke a hole in it to get it out - especially since most of us have rigs that have 170K + on them and they arent exactly driven in the most desirable curcumstances. repeat process as many times as you think it takes till the mixture looks semi clean. fill the engine back up with oil. i recommend synthetic. synthetic oils FAR outperform their natural counterparts.

 

dont worry about the oil pickup. the diesel does a pretty good job of breaking down the deposits.

 

all this comes from my own experience of doing this and initially came from a good friend of mine that owned a small oil additive company and is a mechanical engineer.

 

i would recomend this trick to anyone that would like to keep the internals of their motor clean. ive done it and it works great!

 

:)

[Super swampers just dont fit an impreza]

you could always cut & re-weld the preches... be sure not to boil the oil in the struts though.

 

you cant or more importantly shouldnt weld struts.

 

reason #1 - you WILL boil the oil.

reason #2 - said oil MIGHT burst the strut body spraying said welders face with boiling hot oil causing 3rd degree burns and much high pitched screaming.

reason #3 - strut bodies have printed on them - "DO NOT HEAT". maybe this should have been reason #1

reason #4 - i have tried welding struts. i ruined a brand new PAP strut in the lift R&D stage. worked fantastic when i got it home from PAP, didnt work at all after welding. cooked the oil. hence the conclusion.

 

all in all. spend the money on a lift. or make one.

[Rims painted and complete (sorry 56k's)]

Zap, that white showing around the edge is light messing with the camera. There is no white showing, nor any grey primer. Its completly painted over with 3 or 4 coats of red. The clear coat wasnt completly dried, and the way the spray was.... it caught the light and makes it look like there is white showing.

 

If worse comes to worse, i'll goto kragen and get some 14" beauty rings to hide it

 

-Brian

 

im pretty sure that Zapar isnt talking about the white colored "overspray" around the FACE of the rim. i would have to say that hes probably talking about the very, very, ..... very, VERY edge of the rim. the outermost portion that you chip on rocks and that the tire machine rides on - if you have ever watched them mount your tires at Les Slob. hes right, get that sprayed, youll see it if you dont.

 

oh, and DO NOT get - cough GAY cough - "beauty" rings on your hatch to go in the mud with. if youre considering anything with the term "beauty" in it for your mudder then you might want to consider the honda board next door seeing how they seem to be pretty keen on that shiny stuff.

 

oh, yeah. and im also pretty sure that if you do put beauty rings on your rig, the USMB gremlins will come burn it down. :banana:

[*edited* jumpin subies.......]

never mind. found it. funonwheels.

 

all the know-it-alls can now rest their weary heads.

[*edited* jumpin subies.......]

THere's video of that 2nd dude.... its amazing.

 

-Brian

 

where would that video be?? i looked for video after i found the pics a while back but didnt find any

[*edited* jumpin subies.......]

(Please keep your language clean, this is a kid friendly site. Thanks, Eric Zap)

 

has anyone seen these pics or happen to know any of the crazy s.o.b.s behind the wheel??!! i thought we were gettin up there when we were getting 6 ft under the wheels.

 

i wouldnt want to be in either of those rigs upon imact. landing at 6 ft was about all my back - and i think the car, could take. any higher and we were walking home from chelan for sure

 

 

 

[Dual Batteries?]

Yes definatly an excellent link. I think i'll just wire all my accessories from the 2nd battery, and use an isolator.

 

-Brian

 

right. just get the isolator and another battery and wire it up as the directions say. you dont need a bigger alternator, the stocker does fine. ive got dual batteries in the battlewagon and i can run all 8 lights, sterio, full heater and still have enough juice to plug in and power my 12v imaginary friend.

 

of course, i dont run everything all at once really ever. i just did it a bunch when i first hooked it up to see if it could do it.

 

check out the pics of the engine bay mount i made for the second battery.

 

 

[Ticking -- only when giving gas]

sounds like its only doing it under load..... maybe its pinging instead of ticking?? try supreme and see if it goes away.....

 

and, yes, seafoam works great. ive used to much success many times. frees STUCK lifters much less quiets noisy ones.

[Pull A Part Update]

you guys must be discussing a PAP up north or something...because if there were that many soobs at PAP down here i would have a yard full of used parts just waiting for something to break.

 

i work at another yard and can totally understand the frustration of the people at PAP....i have to mark some parts in so many places that i almost can't write small enough....(i have a paint marker....neener, neener, neener:-p )

 

BTW people, i HAVE found where to get the pens online but i only use them when a part is broken and i need to return it but the paint has worn off with installation..... im too paranoid to steal parts anyway because i know that if i steal a wiper fluid resevoir by marking it and taking it back - my motor will blow up and the wiring in the car will catch fire.

 

just to clear things up.

[bored, took a couple flex pics]

How do the lenght of the toyota coil overs compair the the subaru's? David

 

 

the toyota's coilovers are similar in length for the rear. you have to make totaly different mounts for the top but the bottom virtualy bolts right in. i havent COMPLETELY figured out the front yet. the way the stock strut slides into the hub assembly is baffling me as to how i would mount a bolt in pivoting style bushing mount into a slide in mount. you cant have any movement there and i havent figured it out yet.

 

as far as the rear wheels not being centered in the wheel well once you lift it..... the battlewagon's wheels are way forward with the lift i made. im gonna end up changing it when i make the subframe. if you think about it, you cant get away from that much if you drop the control arms a lot because your pulling the wheel forward on a pivot.

[Pull A Part Update]

You can get paint markers at a craft store.

 

NO, you cant. not the ones they use.

 

believe me. ive tried the ones they have at the craft store.

[Pull A Part Update]

I've found all of the people at Pull a Part to be more than reasonable if you treat them with respect. I always ask them to mark my stuff whether I think I'll bring it back or not. Their staff has to deal with people who are occasionally trying to pull a "fast one." Unfortunately they have no way of knowing what's an honest mistake from someone trying to cheat. The staff there is not hired for their smarts and I'm sure is not paid much more than minimum wage.

 

ditto. they really dont want to be there and you can tell. i wouldnt want to be there much either if i was always dealing with RUDE foreigners and creeps. most guys that roll through there have no business interacting in public. they barely know how. most of the time they cut me off in line too. i can understand the employees attitude. there is one girl there that i deal with most if i can. she usually doesnt charge me for half the stuff that i have.

 

oh, and MAKE SURE you keep reciepts. i have been screwed in the past with just going by the colors. seems they get mixed up sometimes.... maybe i should just go buy the pens they use there.... i found em online...

[bored, took a couple flex pics]

the other thing I'm contemplating is having the local driveline shop(6 states) make me some rear axles using ujoints instead of DOJ and have a slip joint in the middle, but I fear those will be pretty spendy, my guess is around $250 axle, but that way I wont be having to replace the whole unit when I destroy something. I'm actually pretty impressed with how the IRS performs, I'm not a big fan of the IFS setup, but all in all when going over knarly stuff I feel I have a better grip/handle on it with this than I did when I had my solid axled heep of crap.

 

ive already contacted northwest drivelines (well, their CV division next door....) about making ujoint/splined slip shaft axles and YES, they are spendy. ive got about 12 good stock axles in my garage (that ive been scouring from PAP) that ill happily keep changing for the cash youd spend on 4 custom axles.

 

agreed. ive since gotten rid of the toyota solid axle swap idea that i was contempating due to the fact that i really like the feel and movement of the subaru independant. solid axles DO feel top heavy and bouncy. ive always hated that. im going back to my independant suspension with toyota tacoma coilovers plan.... then again, i might change my mind next week....

[found this on the net..]

holy S**T. 0 to 60 in 3.8 seconds! :eek:

 

i love how it made the guy puke.....

 

AND it even looks like a miny exotic.

 

Makes the ej22 in a Loyale sedan 2wd seem all the more intriguing...

 

i seem to have a mint one of those that would be perfect for the conversion..... sigh..... too many depreciating assets/hobbies.

[Transmission swap]

read my write up on the swap in the USRM for important points that i noticed.

 

you need the WHOLE 5 SP clutch setup. mix matching wont work.

 

dont forget to take off the clutch inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. it wont even let the flywheel turn at all.

 

driveline - i welded mounts on the car for an EA82 wagon carrior bearing driveline. then i took one of my wagon drivelines and cut (i think about 3") the half that isnt attatched to the carrier bearing. cut it RIGHT at the factory weld - make sure to just cut the .120 wall of the outer tube because there is a sleeve in there that will fit right back in the other end of your cut to line it all up right. weld it good - factory good. shops wont even balance a driveline if you tell them you welded on it. so make sure to weld it good. paint it flat black and then let it bounce around in the back of your truck for a week (to get it looking slightly old) and go have it balanced. DONT drive it without balancing it. it will vibrate like crazy and throw out your trans and diff bearings if let gone too long.

 

oh, and youll need to lift the car. shelby rattles like crazy because the trans is smashed right up against the bottom of the car. or smash the HELL out of the trans tunnel.

[R&P steering pushing swampers ??]

now that the conversation has turned to PS vs. non PS........

 

seems not too many people are having trouble turning the larger tires. as far as breaking the R&P and all. i must have had a weak unit that went south with the larger meats.

[shelby's rynoplasty]

.. why not cut it out, cut out a hole in your hood and let it do something... maybe it would cool the gearbox... not that subies need extra cooling.

 

I like your rims, looks sweet.

 

cant cut the hood out. shelby see's a lot of puddle jumping. cant scoop water RIGHT in there. besides, there isnt a single thing on 'er that needs cooling. i dont need to waste my time cutting holes to vent.

[shelby's rynoplasty]

looks good, but dude...serously...cut the center out of the hoodscoop so it's not SO obviously useless..

 

i'm i'm wrong, forgive me.

 

i know, i know. it actually comes with a grid that you put in there so that it doesnt look TOO fake, but after i had the scoop on the hood, i tried to find the piece and found out that i had lost it somewhere in the last year of owning the scoop.

 

ive got a cardboard template already made to make another grid to go in there so RELAX!

[shelby's rynoplasty]

Playing around at Reiter?

 

yup. thats usually where im at since i live 4 minutes away.

[Operation Mad Max]

seems to me that remains from wwII WOULD have rust, holes and look like its falling apart.

 

mad max rigs would too. i doubt POR15 would be available at the thunderdome supermall.

[shelby's rynoplasty]

here ya go Sparkster, new fangled pics for ya.

 

figured shelby needed a new nose. (see first pic for before:-\ . pic 2 is of the day that led to her demise ). pretty sure she's the first Black-N-Tan. goes good with my alaskan amber. :drunk:

 

BTW - .060 fencing works GREAT for bumpers. just make sure to grind all the galvinizing off or youll end up in the hospital.

 

 

ENJOY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ratio of running vs. non-running subarus]

shelby - '86 4x hatch running strong with the 5 sp conversion 155K

 

veronica - 82 4x "3rd eye" wagon, runs strong. FIRST SOOB. SUPPOSED to be selling to a friend if he ever picks it up. maybe ill just keep his deposit. 125K

 

battlewagon - '86 GL 4x wagon, OUT OF COMMISION. undergoing extreme RE-construction. runs great (3rd motor), just doesnt drive with no trans or rear end. 160K

 

'86 GL wagon 4x4 - got for free. runs REALLY BAD.

 

'87 GL sedan - bought for $100 to fix and sell. timing belts. MINT!! 115K and fully loaded! (wish it was a 4x for my wifes pass car)

 

BOUGHT, FIXED AND SOLD -

 

84 GL wagon - battery

86 GL wagon - t belts

87 GL sedan - t belts

82 wagon - battery connections, HG

80 hatch - front axles, HG

90 loyale - t belts, disty

91 loyal - 2 doors, fan belts, battery, PCV

84 sedan - seat, windshield, steering wheel, plugs and wires

85 wagon - fuel filter, air filter, plugs and wires

92 legacy - fuses

83 GL wagon - HG

 

shoot, thats all i can remember..........

[R&P steering upgrades]

I didnt want to hijack a post from gunslinger so here it is:

 

I havent ever measured newer subarus rack and pinion steering. Foresters seem bigger closer to our EA series cars so how bout using a forester rack on lifted rigs? As far as the length, its adjustable with the tierods. Are the newer racks more "heavy duty" because of the raised horsepower?

 

thank you. i havent thought about that. when i hit PAP on monday, ill look. something interesting to look into though.

[Roofline Snorkel, Why?]

"c'mon now... its a soob.. who dosent just go banzai into the water??? i dunno bout u, but i paid 100$ for mine..im gonna drive it like i paid 100$ for it.. :banana:

 

LMAO...LMAO... sh*t. ditto on that one. ive had a couple that i got on auction for LESS than $100 aaaaannd... i DEFINENTLY drove em like i paid less than $100 for them. muaahahahahaha! isnt that what theyre for?