bmaness

95 Legacy Wagon LSi

I have the service manual, but my electrical schematic deciphering skills are limited. I was hoping someone would recognize where that red power wire goes by sight.

So I replaced the heater core successfully but when I glued it all back together the AC compressor clutch would not kick in. It was working fine before the heater core. Everything else works. At the same time I decided to remove the dealer-installed security system. So I’m figuring I have a wire not connected yet. That red one coming out of the instrument harness to fuse box 15 prong connector is my prime candidate. And help me to understand what the wires wrapped in gray vinyl go to. Some sort of round 5 wire connector above the fuse box. One of the wires goes through the bulkhead down to near the driver headlight. Fuses all good. Mode control and fan motor working fine. I jumped the compressor clutch direct off the battery and it engaged normally. Any ideas? Thanks folks

Well I got it put back together, reusing the lower camshaft idler. Runs great. I wrote rockauto a glow-in-the-dark complaint letter advising them of my dissatisfaction with the Dayco kit. Aisen from hereon... Thanks to all for the help.

Sorry for any confusion, I just added on to the original thread instead of starting a new one. Mine is a 1995 ej22e in a Legacy LSi wagon with 230k miles. The picture under "more info" showed 4 pulleys but the kit came with 3 only

A member suggested an Aisin kit and, having never heard of Aisin, I bought Rockauto Dayco Kit No. WP172K3AS "premium replacement" kit instead. This purchase came short an idler pulley (the red one at bottom left), hence my question above. So, in the interest of getting my car back on the road, I'll just use the old perfectly-serviceable red idler and put it on last before pulling the tensioner pin? My original question to the forum was, is it better to get a genuine Subaru timing belt or does it matter? The Dayco belt that came with the above kit was appropriately marked at the crankshaft, 44 and 40.5 teeth marks. The Dayco kit came with 2 oil seals ( in a separate sealed packet) that I could not identify where they would go so I did not mess with them. They were different sizes and came with a small tube of lube. Presumably behind the camshaft pulleys? Me no know. I'm not fixing what isn't leaking.

In my Dayco kit there is a smooth tensioner pulley, a toothed pulley, and a smooth (green) pulley. There are 2 smooth idler pulleys on the car. Am I short a pulley or do I reuse the lower smooth (red) idler pulley?

You were right of course, I finally found all the marks and all 3 look lined up which explains why it runs so well. I'll be back when I get in a jam. Thanks

OK so I pulled the radiator and can see much better. There do not appear to be hash marks on the camshaft pulley rims, but there does appear to be an arrow cast into one of the spokes of each camshaft pulley. Are these the alignment marks?

Thanks Mike 104, I downloaded the FSM. I have an EJ22e. I learned about "running naked" on this site. The timing belt cover has been removed for some time, so the pulley rims are kinda crusty. I'll likely pressure wash the area real good and try to find my best bright light to help my tired eyes locate the hash marks. I ordered a Dayco assembly kit from rockauto $140. I'll be back when I get up the gumption to tackle the job. Thanks for your help.

I'm fixin to do a timing belt on my 95 legacy 2.2. I was planning to buy the kits they sell with the belt, tensioner, pulleys, and water pump. I thought I read here that it was better to buy a genuine Subaru timing belt. Is this the case or will I be all right buying the "premium" aftermarket replacement kit? Also, I've been running naked for awhile, and there are no discernible paint or hashmarks on the camshaft pulleys that I can see to properly align them. Do I just need to look closer?

Yep, I went caveman on it and jerked it cleanly past whatever it was hung up on, Now for the replacement exercise...I'll be back.

I can jiggle it pretty good but It's hanging up on the box next to it at the top right. I know if I start prying on stuff I'll break it.

95 Legacy Lsi 223k I have successfully removed the dash and the crossbar and gained access to the heater box and removed the two stud nuts at the top of the box housing and loosened the ac box housing screw immediately below. I can't get it to move much. The housing is still tight to the studs. I can pull the housing top off the studs with effort, and rock it a bit. The core in/out pipes are free to move. I hate to roughneck it now, having gotten this far somewhat successfully. It seems to be held at the bottom of the heater box somehow, It looks like the box will clear the hump ductwork but me not know. Can you advise on best way to get to the heater core? I'm pretty close...

95 legacy lsi So my cig lighter was working until I plugged in a 12v interior heater fan I bought to keep warm because my heater core sprung a leak and I plumbed it out of the circuit. I looked under the dash and under the hood and all the fuses look good. What am I missing?

95 Legacy 2.2 w/216k miles near Houston,Tx I came out from running an errand to find dampness on the passenger side and a sweet smell. I immediately suspected a heater core failure. I found one for ~$50 online but it sounds like a big hassle to pull and replace the dash. I likely don't have the patience so I'll just plumb the core out and burn sterno. The leak appears coming from the between the plastic housing halves. Based on the post discussions, I'm gonna try the stop leak. I read of no downside to using an additive other than fouling up the part that I now know is already fouled up. Coolant is dripping from a rubber hose coming out of the heater core/firewall interface into the engine compartment. Is this hose a tattletale for a leaking heater core? In a jam, is it possible to crimp the heater core inlet hose from the engine compartment side to stop a significant flow/loss?

When I did my amateur fan function test, I undid the fan connector and ran a hot wire from the battery. Upon further review, it appears I didn't get the connector prongs lined up when I plugged it back together. I realized this when I jacked the car up and came face to face with the connector. Specifically the black ground wire looked to be the problem. I lined it up mo better and reinserted the connector and the started the car and, voila, the fan came on with the a/c! Suspecting I may have committed the same error on the other fan connector, upon inspection it looked like I may have buggered it up as well. I lined it up and reinserted the connector and the started the car and, voila, both them fans came on!! And now she idles cool and I get no check engine light. And I was just funnin' about the hg bubbles... It is a miracle...

Well, it got hot enough to blow the radiator bypass tube and the fan never came on.

I changed the 2 wire sensor/sender. On top and back of the engine. Where is the single wire sensor? The temp gets up to the markings at the gauge top and the return bottle is gurgling real good and I'm afraid to let it get a whole lot hotter waiting for the fans to kick on. I'll try it again now and revert.

I changed the temp sensor/sender recently chasing another problem (stumbling). That's when I started getting the 115 CEL message.

95 Legacy Lsi with 202,000 miles Cooling fans don't come on at all ever. As long as I'm moving air through the radiator (normal driving) there is no problem. I overheat in stop and go summer traffic. Turning the heater on high dissipates the heat somewhat...OEM stat I previously function tested the fans by jumpering from the battery, both worked. Same with the 4 underhood fusebox relays. I plugged the green wires into ECM Test mode and only got the a/c clutch to cycle in and out. No fans. The other day, the a/c clutch kicked in for 20 seconds with the a/c off and defroster on high heat. P0115 error, clears but comes back after awhile. Please, I don't want to hear about hg's,There did seem to be bubbles in the radiator but even if that is the case, as stupid as it may sound, I want to drive that motor until it won't go any further. I just want to know how to make my fan(s) fire short of robbing a powered lead from somewhere.

This is on a 95 Legacy with 200k miles. New plug wires and plugs, fuel filter, cooling sensor/sender, knock sensor, and O2 sensor. I've been fighting this stumble problem since September and still don't have it completely solved. I finally got it to stop "hard stumbling" by cleaning the MAF with Gunk and a toothbrush. Now, it's more like a shudder or tremor, not all the time but often enough to cause consternation. Kinda feels like a front tire problem or a front end problem. If I accelerate through the shudder it sometimes clears it up for awhile. I'm guessing the MAF is failing slowly but I just don't know. Question: I see MAF's from $70 to $470. What can you folks recommend? Any other ideas?

I don't know what MAF is. I replaced an o2 sensor that was causing a check engine light a couple of months ago. Only the occasional stumble driving today.

I guess my extended initial answer never made it... Yes OBDI, no CE lights. New wire shorted to exhaust manifold. Used old wire and ran to Tomball and back. Ok but bucks a little at downshifts and decelerations. Can you spec your preferred wire set? Though I was careful and watched the video, this might be a "improper use of dielectric grease" deal. Next set no grease. I used what I would call a "coin" style gap tool. Is the desired gap measurement made from where the leading edge of the strap hits the gauge point, or from the center of where the strap hits the gauge point?

Wel, it drove great for 130 miles. Now bucking again. What next?