4WDFrenzy

That thing is SWEET!!! Wish I could get my hands on one. I love the way the RX looks. I mean, I wouldn't ditch my wagon for one, but I wouldn't mind adding to my collection though. Congratulations on the sick deal!!! Patrick

That's awesome! I'm glad that everything is working well. I'm interested, what kind of boost are you running with that TD04 and what kind of intercooler are you running? I know with my current setup(VF7 and Starion intercooler), I am running at the max(11psi via a manual boost controller), but even on a hot day in Texas, the IC would be at ambient temperature, if not a little colder after driving, well, at least the last time I drove it. Patrick

Yeah, they only came on JDM WRX GF8 wagons and automatic GC8 sedans. With so many people upgrading and junking Subarus over here, I'm sure that I can snatch one up without paying alot of money, well, hopefully. BTW, the engine is looking good! Patrick

Cool, I'll go and check them out. Thanks again. Patrick

Hey presslab, I'm glad to hear that you are recuperating so well and that you're back up and about. Oh yeah, and Thank You for your willingness to help. I really appreciate it. I like the modded TD04 you have. I am going to try and look for one sometime in the near future as I have heard lots of good things about performing this mod. I am going to try and locate one locally(here in Okinawa) since they already have the 90* bend at the intake. I'm sure that someone has one. If not, I'll just get a USDM one. Patrick

Ah so! Thank you for clearing that up. I honestly did not know that. I mean, I knew about only being able to run the PT4WD tranny in 2WD on the road, but I didn't know about the rest. Thanks man, you rock! Patrick

I had the same problem with my '88 GL-10 wagon right after I had changed the clutch. I adjusted the TPS and also made a small adjustment to the idle screw. It ran fine after that. Patrick

Well, GD strikes again!!! LOL:banana: Patrick

Hey, Welcome to the Forum! The 80s model Subarus did come with manual transmissions. They were either FWDs, Part-Time 4WD(Push Button 4WD), and Fulltime 4WD configurations. To the best of my knowledge, the FT4WD tranny came with a hi-lo option(which the gears are engaged via levers). If I'm incorrect, someone will chime in and correct me. They do not have transfer cases, but rather a center differential which is located near the tail of the transmission housing. It is engaged by a switch, which in turns activates a vacuum solenoid that locks the diff to transfer an equal(or as close to equal) 50/50 power front and rear. The PT4WD transmission is primarily a FWD when the center diff is not engaged. Basically, the rear wheels free wheel while not in use. But with the push of a button(pun intended) it performs similarly to the FT4WD. I hope that helps to answer your question. Patrick

Glad to hear that she passed emissions. Those are some pretty good numbers. Anyway, have a fun time in Alaska. Patrick

It's all good. I was hoping that it was a joke, but with everything in this life, nothing is for certain. Patrick

YIKES! I sure wish that I could help, but my car is sitting in Texas and I'm in Japan. Otherwise, pics would not be a problem. I'm sure someone around here has pics and will be more capable of providing adequate assistance. Patrick

Oh and before I forget, you should check out the post by a member here whose SN is presslab. This guy has been making some huge progress on the electronic side of things(boost control, fuel cut avoidance, etc). Check his post out, as it is very much worthwhile. Here is a link:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86273 Patrick

+1 for Cougar If the rotor isn't turning, it most likely a snapped timing belt. The timing belt drives the cam that has the gear that drives the disty. So yeah, I think that your suspicions are right. Patrick

Let me advise you against cutting the springs. If you do that, you will open up a whole new can of worms. I don't know how doing that would affect the ride quality, but on most cars it adversely affects handling. Now IIRC, someone had posted something about Eibach making springs that will fit. I know that the cheap eBay coilovers for a WRX will work. There are a few members her on the Forum that have installed them with little to no problems. You may have to do a search for the posts though. Patrick

Or if he is feeling froggy, and he can find all the necessary equipment(wiring harness), he can install an EJ20G and still be able to have a reliable turbocharged engine. Patrick

Hey QBABY, listen to GD on this. He is on point! I have an EA82T equipped '88 GL-10 and there isn't really any aftermarket support for these. I have made many worthwhile mods to mine, but after lots of research and knowing a few things from working on other turbo cars. While incredibly finicky, the EA82T is still a fun little engine. But don't expect to make lots of power out of one. That 175hp rating for the race engine was really pushing the EA82T to the limits. And even then, that horsepower figure was at the crank. with a 16% driveline loss percentage, you're only getting 147hp of that to all 4 wheels and then the ground. I'm not trying to be a naysayer because I love my EA82T. But what it comes down to is you have to know the engines limits. Now as far as boost goes, 11psi is probably going to be max pressure. At 12psi the poor little stock turbo is wheezing up top. There are some members that have successfully transplanted TD04s onto their EA82Ts with no problems. Just make sure that you don't neglect the fueling side of things. If you do, you are most certain to be sorry down the road. One thing by far that will net you the best power gain is probably going to be a freer flowing exhaust system. It is the safest mod aside from installing an IC. One other thing to note, when you install your IC, make sure that you recirculate the BPV. Patrick

Holy Crap presslab!!! You have been making leaps and bounds since the last time I looked at this thread. Dang, I feel like I have been in a cave or something(no Osama bin Laden jokes either, please). Anyway, I'm sorry to hear about you having to have reconstructive knee surgery. I know that it can't be fun. But I hope that you get better soon. If you don't mind, I might be hitting you up for some info in the next month or so on how to construct those mods, as I am itching for more power on my GL-10. Good Work and Get Better Soon. I can't wait for what is in store for the next installment! Patrick

I'm certainly glad that it was something so simple. Too bad for this car though, may it rest in peace, or pieces, or......well.....you know what I mean. Patrick

Does your TD04 have the adjustable wastegate actuator arm? If so, start shortening that actuator arm pronto. I had a similar thing happen when I had a '95 WRX wagon(JDM). It took me a couple days to get it adjusted where it need to be(thanks to engine heat, horrible weather, wife and kids, etc). But after I got it where it needed to be, BOY OH BOY!!! That thing ran like a scalded ape and had some sick turbo response. Patrick

Sounds to me like something electrical, like a bad battery or a bad alternater, or maybe both. At the least, get the battery checked out. Of course, if it is good(no bad cells) have it charged and then see have the alternater checked. You can check the alternater with a multimeter if you have one. You just basically want to see voltage output higher than 12.8, but lower than 15v. Higher than that and you risk frying electronics in the car, not to mention cooking(overcharging) the battery which will result in a decently loud BOOM! Any lower than 12.8v, and the likelyhood that the battery will be able to charge while the car is running(with accessories on) is low. I sure hope that helps a little. Patrick

That blue wagon looks pretty nice. I'm not too wild about the raised roof though. My '95 Legacy GT wagon has the raised roof. Again, nice car, just not wild about the raised roof thing. Anyway, the blue wagon at the beginning of this thread looks as though the owner may have stacked washers between the hinges and the mounting bolts to raise the rear of the hood. It is supposed to help to "vent" heat and aid in its evacuation from the engine compartment. It is the "thing to do" here in Okinawa among the "tuner" community. Personally, I wouldn't waste my time, but that is my personal opinion. Patrick

I've got my fingers crossed for you. I bet the anticipation of hearing that bad boy rumble is killing you! Well I wish you the best of luck and hopefully your car decides to be nice and not do anything else that is detrimental to it running properly. Patrick

Yeah, I have entertained the idea of a TD04 before, but I actually think that I may follow through this time, well, now that the shine of a modded "turd"(as someone once called it; VF7) has finally worn off and I have seen the light. The extra air moving ability of the TD04 would be very much a welcome addition. I know what you mean about the 105+ degree temps being a morale killer. But in the end, you have to look at it from the standpoint of whether you want to get your car running(Yes.......you know you do! ). How fast you want to get back to enjoying it will wind up being the deal breaker. Patrick

Hey bud, I was just reading about your predicament. I agree with the others about checking the turbo and pvc system. When the seals on a turbo go, you'll get lots of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. One other thing, take the pcv valve off(which should be located behind and below the throttle body on the backside of the intake manifold IIRC). Get yourself a can of brake cleaner and spray it out. Make sure that it rattles when you shake it. If it does, you can re-use it. If not, it is time to replace. They should be under $5 at just about any parts store. Not sure on the price from the dealer, but I'm sure it isn't that expensive. I know that a stuck pcv valve can cause the engine to suck oil from the crankcase into the air intake piping, and ultimately into the combustion chamber. Boost pressure from a turbo only exacerbates the situation, since the fast moving pressurized air pushes the oil filled air into the combustion chamber. I hope that this helps. Patrick