sadarahu

Some time ago I was driving on highway using cruise control. Got home, then next day my dashboard went on with "CHECK ENGINE and flashing CRUISE CONTROL. I cannot angege it anymore and it does not work. Tried to disconnect Battery for an hour but it did not help. I have checked with my friend (who has a computer) all messages and there was nothing reported related to the Crouse Contrlo or similar item. http://tinyimg.io/i/dbOuDJG.jpg Since I'm not planning to keep this car to long I would rather not want to get into expensive repairs, but perhaps somebody has some quick tips to check anything else that might be causing it so at least I could diagnose it. Regular SUB shop would probably charge me $100 just to tell what's wrong. Computer shows problem with ABS sensor and this is something I'm aware because it goes on and off back and fort, but I guess this is not related to cruise control at all.

Sub.Forester 2007 /115k Since a few days I have CRUISE CONTROL message blinking and along with that CHECK ENGINE. After weekend (2 days no driving) it went off, then Monday after o.5hr driving came back again. Of course I cannot turn on/off cruise controll and any of its features are not working. I was wondering if there is something that possibly could be reset ? Fuse? Relay ? switch ? etc? Any ideas what might be causing it ?

GeneralDisorder - your post is no meaning. What you talking about ?

I get lots of air coming in when in hight speeds making lots of noise. I tried to place some door foam into the seal but it heplped only for some time. I wonder where can I get those door sealt which go around to replace them ? Tried to look on-line but no luck. It is Forster 2007 (non turbo). Art

Forester 2007 (Std). My AC goes on and off and on.... It seems that I need a clutch replacement. Anybody did that without taking the whole compressor out ?

Souperoo - I did all of this before your post. The mechanic put the O-ring wrong and it got damaged. They replaced it with something similar but I guess it's a bit smaller. The wheel is running nice and smooth but the pump is still making whining noise. I plan to go to Subaru dealer and purchase original O-ring and replace both clamps on the container. If the pump is brand new I do not see the reason to replace the fluid 2-3 times. Of course pump might be faulty but I doubt. It looks like an air problem only. All belts are working fine and cover is bit loos on one end (as expected).

Replaced first (rebuild) pump at the shop. It did not work at all. Replaced the 2nd pump (new after market). IT works but when making turns it makes noise. I have seen some videos on-line and tested for recommended troubleshooting but so far nothing helps. When bleeding the pump we placed the reservoir higher than the pump. No bubbles in the container. We also replaced the O-ring (because original got damaged while installing). The mechanic (or I rather should call him handy man) did a crappy job. the canister was also removed and cleaned. This is Forester-2007(non turbo), with 108k miles. No leaking can be found so I'm out of clue what else could cause this. I wonder if we should order another pump or there is anything else to test ? Any ideas appreciated ART

thanks guys, god idea. I will try to call them and get few answers to see what they say first.

I make 99% of my payments with CC (and this was probably paid this way but I cannot recall details after 5 years. Thank you for your replies although I need somewhat official info: how long we need to keep documents related to the car purchase ??? I believe this should be the same for the entire US. ART

I received a letter from the City Office asking me to pay the TAX for my former car. This was Toyota. I have sold that car about a year ago and switched to Subaru. The letter was sent to me 1 year after I sold the car and about 5 years after I bought it. Once I sold the Toyota and purchased Subaru I got rid of all documents related to Toyota. I just have no room to store old paperwork and junk. The City Of Chicago requested to pay the tax + penalty. I wend to the local Currency Exchange ask for the records and prove that the taxes were paid. they explained that they do not keep those records for 5 years. Of course then I was not able to collect or retrieve any documents related to local tax (which was paid). I also have no access to the bank account records from 5 years ago to prove the payments (which went from my C.Card through Currency Exchange). How long the law requires me to keep car documents ? I was under impression it is 3 years. I'm sick and tired of explaining them I have no access to the documents and I'm sure the taxes were paid (simply because all procedures regarding that car - it was used one) were taken by Currency Ex. office and I trust those people know what they doing as they process thousands of those every year. At this moment I'm completely stuck, but I really hate to pay the tax (which I already paid) again and especially deal with the car I do not even own anymore. I appreciate any help or advice. ART

thank you guys for suggestions. Not sure if the kit also includes drive belt or I need to order it separately. Mine is in really bad shape and ot one place I see holes in it so need to replace it ASAP (which brand you recommend of so?)

I would like to ask those who did it what the cost for replacing timing belt ? Replacement will include kit lie this one here is the link to the part . Arthur

I would like to install heat exchanger (for mobile shower). Wonder if anybody has gone through this and if you guys have any recommendations to brands, install locations and tips. here is (but of course I need to install this in my Forester 2008. I'm also not sure what size to choose (although it would be mainly for 1-2 people no more). Here is but the construction is a bit different. Any opinions ? ART

I need to run 2 external cables into the area of the dashboard. One is external antenna coax ( little bit thinner than regular TV cable). The other one is a USB cable. What is the best route (or I should say the easiest path for permanent installation) ? Arthur

Subaru Forester 2017. What was the trick to disable 4WD ? If I remember there is some fuse or jumper in a fuse box or something like that. any ideas ? Art

well I was wrong on my MPG initially. I used wrong settings in my calculation program so now when I corrected it I get around 23-23 on the highway. It seems to be a little lower than average factory data. Subaru Fanatic - can you please send some link to "sea foam", never herd of that... CNY_Dave - not sure what you asking me but if you asking about transmission I'm about to change the fluid so would be happy to see any recommendations. I found this on Amazon and I'm almost ready to purchase it but not sure how much I need.

lmdew - your suggestion was rather rude :-(I'm not "all other folks..." DO NOT JUDGE A BOOK BY IT'S COVER !

Thanks for suggestions but I'm 60years o and do not drive like crazy. Of course when I can go 85 I do but this isn't often. I was asking for what can I do with the car. Is there anything except what I've listed to check ? I don't think I need an advice how to drive. Not sure how the MPG given by factory was calculated (speeds etc.) but on average I'm not making what is factory average so I was wondering if I can improve it but checking or replacing something in a car. Of course driving habits affect this but I do not need advice in this subject but rather technical help. I would also appreciate if anybody who has that model/year could post some readings here.

thanks but those sounds are more like a suspension or stabilization. I checked the items you listed and do not think it is any of them. I drive long enough to hear the difference although I cannot exactly say which pat of the suspension. Checked the mufler and plastic shield see no problems.

I get 21mpg in town but only about 23 on a haighway. Forester 2007/86k, new tires, front pads and calipers. Planning to replace few more things. What else - except replacing: spark plugs, cables and air filter could be done/checked to improve MPG ? Arthur

I recently replaced 4 struts. When driving on bumps or over a pat holes still hear ratling noise. Month ago I replace 4 sway bars as well. I wonder what else could cause it or what would be the next to replace to improve suspension issues ? Subaru Forester 2007 (86k). ARTHUR

when replacing pad caused temperature issues I came back to the shop explaining that discs get very hot. they took the wheel apart again and told me to replace calipers. They ordered new calipers with backets and clips from O'Reily so everything is new. They installed new ceramic pads that I bought in another store and after all this I drove another 400miles. The MPG at this moment is 23 which still comparing to 30 which I had 2 months ago is down by 25% The disc are still get very hot and I wonder if this could cause gas issues. I will definitely replace spark plugs although I doubt this is the cause.

I want to thank you all who invested their valuable time here to help! I REALLY APPRECIATE.IT The car has 83k miles and it is Forester 2007. You guys probably right about the mechanic - I should never go to this one again but now if I go to another one they might ask me to pay again for something I have already paid so I'm trying to get things fixed at least base on a labor warranty. Will probably never go to this place again for anything else. After replacing the calipers I tested MPG and it went from 21/mpg to 23/mpg so not much change. The break still getting quite warm but not as hot as before. I also replaced the drive shaft at this same place and today I saw on RoCKAUTO site there are 2 different lengts. 58" and 60.something . Basically there ware 4 issues that this shop was working on that (in my opinion could have affect the MPG). - replacing drive shaft (it was ordered from RocKauto.com) - replacing strut (left front) - replacing break pads, then later the calipers with brackets - replacing axle shaft (left front) When I tested the front wheels (no wheels installed) I was able to turn the left front with my two fingers on the pins, but I could not do the same on the left front. When mentioned this to the manager he said there is more tension or power going on the left side and that's why it is much harder to spin. He also said that with the wheels mounted it would spin much easier. I'm still not sure what is causing such a dramatic change in MPG. After investing already $3k+ into newly bought car I'm very very upset. I cannot afford to go to Subaru dealer and do all repairs because they charge twice more for the labor and original parts are very expensive. On top of that I need the car every day as I use it for work. Any suggestions what could I check or test to find out what is causing the MPG issue. Perhaps it could be something not related to the recent repairs (?)_ Art

thanks but I'm an IT guy so not very good in mechanics. Not sure about your point, or what you suggesting. Can you explain it more simply. Are you suggesting there is something that might have been done wrong when replacing axle shaft ? Yesterday I sa that the rubber enclosure around the rod is kinda flatten not perfectly circle. As I said this shaft was a bit different from the original one. I will take a PIC tomorrow and post it. I notice those jerks did not even bothered to check the transmission fluid level. I tried to check it and could not get the measure rod out. Seems like it has not been used for years. Will try to spray with W40 to take it out. I'm 300miles away from home and need to travel now back, hope there is enough fluid in a transmission. Do you think that improper replacement / install could affect MPG ?

I tried to put the car on N gear and it seems to roll smoothly but not sure how light the wheels should move. aslo - is it normal for the rear wheels to get warm. The drums do not get very hot as the front but warm. I have no idea what else could cause such a drastic change in MPG I also replaced drive shaft but it is hard to believe this could be the cause