Loyale#1

You know what I never thought about that lol If I were to gut out the cats would it effect anything? Like hp or mpg. Mess with the o2 sensor at all?

My car has been giving me fits for a little over a month now and now it's starting something new. It will die when I let off the clutch. The car will go forward for a few feet, stutters and then dies. I can start it right back up but it does the same thing. Not sure where to go from here. Also the car idles fine, had a fuel pressure gauge t'd in and was getting 21psi. If I rev the engine up to say 3-4K and pretty much slip the clutch it will take off but will stutter and eventually shut off.

Just tested it cold. 90 degrees out today. Got 1,500 ohms

Could the cts cause such problems as I'm having?

I did meter the cts. 241 ohms at operating temp. Have yet to test it cold (waiting on engine to cool down) I don't hear any vaccum leaks, I have even held a small piece of hose to my ear then followed as many vac lines as I could find and didn't hear a single leak. Like I said before I sprayed starter fluid around be vac lines also and engine did not revv. I do not have a spare injector and the parts stores around me do not hardly carry anything for my car so I normally order online. I found this on parts geek part #408-05172345. Is there one you recommend? I have not tried capping off vac lines to narrow down a leak yet. Maybe tommorow after work I will try that. Thanks for the quick reply's and good advice DaveT

Want to add another thing I unplugged the coolant temp sensor While the car was running and up to operating temp and the idle increased a little. I tested the sensor and got 241 ohms. I read in my chiltons manual the denote should test 2-3,000 cold and around 1,000 at operating temp.

Update! So today I got a gauge t'd in my fuel line. With the clamp off the return line gauge reads 22 psi, clamp the return line and the gauge hits 70psi. Another thing I did was pull the vaccum line off of the fpr at idle and nothing changed. So that tells me I'm not getting vaccum there? Should I have vaccum at a idle? This is begining to be very frustrating

Ok I will find a gauge after work and get it t'd in the supply line. Will update when I get pressure reading.

That is a new regulator on it. Im kinda stumped. Thanks for all the good suggestions though. Think I could have a vaccum problem? I sprayed starter fluid around all the vaccum hoses and fittings, engine didn't rev. Is there another way to test vaccum?

New update, wound up replacing the fuel pump because I was having to tap the old one with a hammer handle to get it to spin. After replacing pump I still have to keep a clamp on that return hose for the car to idle well and be driveable. Is there a way to test the dampener?

Ok so I had the ol lady turn the key while I listened to the pump. It did run for roughly 3 seconds or so. Little background on the car, I picked it up for 400 bucks. Body is clean But ran rough, previous owner said it had sat for a while. I did a complete tune up on it, plugs, wires, cap, button etc. It did run a lot better after that but still didn't idle well and wouldn't start when the engine was warmed up. No check engine light codes. I will try and find a gauge and t it in on the supply line. Anyone know what the factory pump is supposed to put out?

How is it supposed to be hooked up?

I have a 94 loyale. When I got it the previous owner had the hose coming into the fuel pressure regulator clamped off. When I took the clamp off the motor ran rough and would eventually die at idle. I replaced the regulator, still having same problem. If you clamp the hose shut it runs fine. Take the clamp off rough idle and dies. Any suggestions?