Haug1

I picked up a multi-meter and now don't know what the Chilton's manual means by "terminals A and C." what are the terminals? when it says to test it when the throttle is "fully closed" or "fully opened" does the car need to be running? this will prove difficult because unless someone revs the engine there is no real way to keep it from stalling. appreciate any and all help

I would start with a multimeter and testing both comonents. Proceedures and pages out of service manuals on this topic can be found using the search feature. thanks for the help. i will look into this today. sorry for being dim, but what exactly is a multimeter? i'll check at an autoparts store for that today and may try to hit up a u-pull-it yard today as well. i'll post what i discover. thanks again, ben

Hi. I've posted about this in the past and got the suggestion to check the ECU and/or to listen to what is happening when it idles. the latter is clearly out of the question considering it stalls literally everytime the revs fall. it starts absolutely fine, bucks when driving, requires a good deal of gas when starting from a stop, has an audible valve opening/closing very rapidly sound when bucking, car smoothes somewhat when the opening/closing stops (process repeats). Things i've done: changed fuel filter, plugs, wires, oil pump seal, PCV valve, O2 sensor, rotor and cap, etc. i'll try to remember more later. i have checked the ECU and all it is doing (with the green test mode connector together and the white single prong connector together next to it in the engine compartment on the drivers side) is flash five times quickly then pause, flash five times quickly then pause, over and over again. PLEASE HELP ME!!! if any of the guys who live on NE Kill. in PDX see this i live just up the road from you. I have no money to take it to a shop. thanks all. extremely frustrated, ben

i have a '90 loyale 5-speed pushbutton with 220,000mi. if the weather is colder than 50 the car usually won't stall, but will still idle poorly. starting it in the morning under these conditions will get an idle at about 2200 rpm. at lights it will dip to 200 or 300 then pop up into the teens, fall back again. it is more likely to stall if the engine is not fully warmed up. i have redone the timing (the previous owner had done some strange things to keep it running) and that should be close to right if not 100% perfect, changed plugs, wires, oil every 3000, new fuel filter, can't think of anything else off the top of my head. when the weather is warm and betties are out and about stalling at the light elicits a good deal of laughter. it gets even better when i restart it and don't rev it properly eliciting yet another stall. my favorite. i love the car despite it being a bit of a pain in the rump roast. help, please. i have looked at some threads that seemed related but those are all on late model rides and i didn't see exactly what i thought i needed. appreciate it

i'll hop in on this because i have had an issue with mine, too. i have no answer for your problem, sorry. regarding the engaging of 4wd over fifty, the owners manual says that it can be engaged at anyspeed. not that this is the wisest thing to do and is more likely absolutely unnecessary. sorry to break into your thread with a question of my own, but maybe we can both get some answers. by the way, my car is a 90 loyale wagon with the push button 4wd. i have found myself on some dry pavement with the 4wd engaged and when i try to get going from a standstill with the wheel turned one way or another till it is locked the car seems to be pushing the front outside wheel. it also sounds like a tire is not rolling (don't know it it is the front outside or not. my girlfriend is great, but unhepful when it comes to cars). sorry about the runon sentences.