wintersubaru
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Posts posted by wintersubaru
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Mine leaks at my right side pollution pipe that comes of the the headnear header flanges so check that to
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You really dont need that tool i jacked the rear up and got a big pair of pump plyers (channel loocks) and turned them. If you dont have big plyers (like 18") then jack up rear remove top mount bolts from body and then remove top nut on shock and turn them by hand (If they are not to rusty that is) They are replaceable but hard to find and exspensive! If you do want the tool just go to a motorcycle shop and ask them if they have it should be cheap just flat piece of metal shaped to hook in to adjustment spot to turn it.You need a coil spring compressor tool to adjust the shocks. They adjust from the bottom, with 3 different settings. I'm not sure if the strut is replaceable. -
I have a 86 gl wagon with a carb Ea82. Question is where is the numbers so i can get rebuild kit. Cant afford weber.
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Would like to thank all the G.I.s That went to Iraq! Did you put in fresh fuel? I have had cars that sat and they would smell real bad untill i put in a couple of tanks of fresh fuel. Allso was watching the news about one of the bombings.They showed an ea82 wagon going around the results of the blast!
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Last winter i drove through two feet of unplowed snow with rain tires on and had a real hard time to get the wheels to spin.Allso drove in ice storm with same tires and was passing jeeps that had chains on them. I have drove other 4x4 s in bad weather but none where as good as my sube.
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I think its closer to 185 lbs. Take the fly wheel off and you drop 25 pounds if its a manual !
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Try this. You need a very strong shop vac some duct tape and a smaller hose then the shop vacs small enough to fit down one of the A/c vents in the dash. put smaller hose into shop vac hose a couple of inches and duct tape all around it to hold it in and not have any leaks between the two hoses. Remove a few vents and stick the hose in as far as you can. That worked on my 86 f 150 so it may work on a sube. Good luck getting rid of the smell because it is a hard smell to kill. If you look around on the net you may be able to find some stuff to get rid of it. Good luck!Seems to have plenty of air flowing through. Speed one doesn't seem to work, but I figure a resistor network is burned or something.How would I go about looking for the nest... I do smell the scent of animal comming from the ducts...
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When you have the blower on does it blow a lot of air or just a little? If its just a little and you know for sure its on high then i would look into a mouse nest up against the heater core its self blocking the flow of air. Had it happen to a car that sat for a while!
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I have heard of the holly weber and the word from some old school mechanics is they are not real good carbs. Would still like to see some pics though!
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I am lucky my car came from arizona so very little rust! Have had mine up for two years now but i go throu tires like mad so i just find good used one cheap and keep changing every 6 months.On my '85 and '86 wagons, the rear shock was the adjustable part, as long as it wasn't rusted together too badly. I think it was ea-81 style vehicles that had the torsion-bar adjustment.The rears had a shock that could be adjusted to either a low or high position. On both my cars, the shocks were rusted solid in the low position.
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Some models in 85, 86 in the rear have coil over shocks that on the bottom had an adjuster ring like on older motorcycles. My 86 wagon has the coilover not a torsion adjustment. I am looking to replace all 4 of my adjustable struts, shocks.That number from monroe would be great!Rear height adjustment is not done with the shock, but with the torsion bar adjustment under the car (at least that's the case with my '84 Brat; I suspect it's the same for the '85 wagon).
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With all the work and rust here in pennsylvania that is a 50 to 100$ car! Heck its not even 4x4.
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My 86 gl wagon was doing some stuff like that.( wipers would come on gauges would max out) It turned out to be a fusible link under hood. It wasent bad it was just a loose connector .
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It really depends on the temp. I worked in a junk yard with the proper tools and still in the winter we would break 2 out of 5 windsheilds. If you have a heated garge it helps and sometimes a heat gun to soften the glue. The hardest part is getting started , See if you can get a windsheild knife if not they sell a cable that you can use to cut around the glue. Be very careful around the corners as that is where they tend to crack the most. Where in northeast pa are you? I know a guy that will come to your house and remove it pretty cheap, He just gave me a price of 170$ to install with the glass on my 90 legacy so a simple removal should be really cheap.
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Allmost every carbed sube i have ever drivin needed at least a 5 minute warm up.The 86 i have now has only three vacum lines,One for advance for disty one for heater control and one for choke and it still needs a five minute warm up or it will stumble like heck untill it warms up 1/4 of the way on gauge.
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Going to get timing light today but i dont think that is the problem. I have had my car out of time many of times but it never died the way it did yesterday. Wasent a complete die just loss of power. Anyone else ever have this problem? Need help please !
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1986 EA 82. Three days after putting new cam tower on my right bank my car started acting strange! Every thing is new except carb but it was done not to long ago. Idle is normal and engine is smooth but once in a while it will bog down and act like its running on 2 cylinders then when i stomp The gas it will pick up but not have the power it should. The timing belts are dead on and im not real shore because i don't have i timing light but by looking at timing marks on the fly wheel and having the disty cap off im at about 10 degrees after tdc on number one plug. Thanks for any info!
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Took apart right side cam tower and removed cam. Front of cam where seal rides has big gouge all along it as does the bearing its self. So put cam case and cam from old engine ,slapped belt on and put marks back in place (one up one down) hit the key and pow fired right up. Must have gotten some dirt in the cam Thats the only thing i could think of because oil pressure on that side is real good. Well at least its fixed !!
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I have the cam towers from my old engine but do you think it would be worth putting them in from an engine that has 198.000 miles on it? New engine only has 98.000 on it. Oil pressure runs about 40. when i take it apart what should i look for as for the oil passages? Thank you for the help
It shouldn't be too bad to do in the car. The bearings are part of the cam tower on these engines, so you'll want to get a replacement cam tower and probably a different cam from somewhere (new ones are like $200, so I'd get one off the board or from a JY). As to why it happened, maybe a clogged oil passage. How was your oil pressure?I had this happen on the passenger side of an EA82T that got SEVERELY overheated. However, in this case, the cam seized up after the engine was shut off. When cranked, it quickly removed about 10 teeth from the timing belt.
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Problem is they both faced the same way. I know they r suppose to face one up and one down and if you read my post from yesterday called stange noise it explains that it is an internal noise i had and i just did the tensioners and belts when i put the engine in last month. Thanks for the info anyway.
The marks on your cams are not supposed to line up .When one is up the other should be down.Before you dig too far I would check the belts and tensioner.A frozen tensioner would cause the noise you describe and also fry your belt. I'm not an expert,just a lifelong student.Jude
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http://kevxml2adsl.verizon.net/_1_2U3FTO103GOVRPD__vzn.dsl/apnws/story.htm?kcfg=apart&feed=ap
&sin=D8D2597O6&qcat=finance&passqi=&top=1&ran=17015 it talked about how GM sold some of ther shares to toyota from fuji.
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Found out the hard way today that the noise is all most definetly the cam bearing
Was on my way to work when i heard the most spine ripping screech come from right bank of engine. Idle dropped and then had no power so i got out looked at the right bank and noticed that my cam gear had rubber from the belt on it. I was only 100 yards from work so i limped it to my bosses barn and turned it off. With further inspection i noticed a lot of smoke coming from that side so i turned the engine so the marks on fly wheel lined up and noticed that both dots on the cam gears allmost faced each other so i knew the belt slipped and i know for sure that the ideler is good. That could only meen the cam its self stopped turnning for some reason thus the loud screech like an engine with no oil. So now my question is how hard is it to pull the cam with the engine in the car? Is it hard to replace the cam bearing? The next thing i need to find out is why did that bearing go? Going to dig into it this weekend Wish me luck! One mor question. Where can i get the cam bearing and seals? -
Not loose belts. I keep my covers off and i checked that first. Is inside cam case hope its not bad cam bearing, How do you tell? I guess its time to take that timing cover off and see if i can notice anything loose. Maybe loose follower?
Loose T-belt? My brother's roo did that. We replaced the t-belts about 2 or 3 k miles ago and for some strange reason, they worked themselves loose. Tightened them up and the noise has vanished. Other possiblity would be a bearing for the cam? -
No is not disty. comming from passenger side and when i put engine in i checked the disty and its like new.
I had another noise on the DS. It was a loose sound. Kinda clattery or a low tone slapping sound. Ended up being the dizzy. The shaft was very lose. Replaced it and the noise was gone.
Kinda sounds like.....
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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we need to put sound on this board I gota hear this!