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Posts posted by scottsheppard@videotron.ca
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Hey folks
Per my last post on another thread, I thought my recent head gasket job with all the various seals and gaskets got messed up as I have a good leak dribbling away...I thought rear main was botched...when I took the intake manifold off I saw this...could it be that simple? If so, what is that sensor....looks like it even leaking up thru plastic electrical connection....similar to the oil sensor issue common on these ...anyone with any ideas or experience?
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@xdeadeye....I am sure you will be fine. Mine had over 200k and the crank was likely worn....I have ordered some sleeves to try out....
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yes, topped up oil, started engine and went for little drive...dribbling began...the small diamond access port looked pretty clean--never touched it...does anyone one know if the crank on the 01 legacy is the same as the 2007 (dimension wise?)...silver seal sells a 2.5 L chrome sleeve that I may put on if it fits a 2007 EJ251 engine...
thanks
scott
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Pardon the thread revival but may as well add rather than cover new ground...I just did an ej25 with head gaskets, valve covers etcetera and the rear main seal...I used the fel pro....I thought it was in the same place and perfectly
Flush....leaks worse than ever now. Anyone have any experience with these seals? Assuming it was the rear seal....I did the oil separator with right stuff gasket maker....gurrrrr another weekend pulling the engine!
I guess next time use Subaru genuine seals?
Kind regards
Scott
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fix the engine---ensure you use the multi layer steel head gasket--either a felpro or 6 star. Good to go. I just did my fist head gasket and the hardest part was re-installing the engine (lining up the mounting bolts)...lots of good info out there. If you can do it yourself, you can do the heads and t belt, idler pulleys etc all for under 4oo bucks in parts ...just my thoughts...then again not everyone likes playing with cars. Paying for someone else to do it is a tuff swallow but still cheaper than starting all over with a different veh.
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seem to be getting the typical 851 codes, no cruise etc etc...has anyone replaced this switch? If so, how much of a pain is it with the exhaust still in place ??
thanks scott
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Rock Auto has great stuff. I bought a few of the Gates Kits for well under 100 bucks and it came with all new bearings, tensioner and made in the USA belt. The bearings were from the same outfit Suraru sources from. Just sayin...
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the old wagon has served well to date (appx 270 000 Km;s),,,have kept the head gasket magic goop in the coolant as advised by subaru and given it regular care.
Now that we are looking for a good car for my son I am considering handing over the soob while we look for another.
I have since lost touch with the state of head gasket repairs in general, but wonder if we are just on borrowed time? If it does go and I redo the gaskets, what has been the average life of the ej25 overall? I believe it is not as high mileage as the ej22?
appreciate your comments.
scott
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thanks for all the help folks:)...most appreciated. it looks about as straight forward as I thought...
cheers
scott
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yes, just the rear hub--complete assy....I have no patience (or press) to remove bearings...would teh new seal already be installed on teh new hub assembly?
cheers and thanks
scott
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Having trouble with this post...I purchased two complete hub/housing/bearing assy's for the car to hopefully replace the rub/drone noise. Are special tools required for this replacement. I ask because I came across a site that appeared to use a spec subaru tool...I may do calipers pads at same time...
cheers
scott
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thanks...hopefully will be able to remove without having to drill out the bolts...is there in fact a gasket between the two sides?
s
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Hello
I have a rather annoying exhause leak at the junction of the catalytic converter and (the other thing that looks like one!)...I gather there is a gasket there but as you can see, the bolts and the springy things are pretty rusted...if there is just a gasket in there, any tips on freeing those bolts?
cheers
scott
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thats great information, thank you...I knew the sohc hg issue was somewhat less severe than the dohc but did not realize it was as..'accommodating'...good to hear and thanks for your reply. Yes, I can only imagine how not fun doing the hg would be without the engine removal...
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Hey Folks,
Has anyone every done an average of the expected life of the HG? My Legacy wagon (2001 SOHC) now has over 170 000 KM's (about 105 K miles) on it. I have been putting in the 'conditioner' but realize time is against me. I just fished the Timing Belt, WP as well as valve adjust and new seals...curious if I am on borrowed time until the HG goes.
As well, anyone had any luck doing the HG while engine still in the car? I am preparing myself for the enevitable whicj I am sure will happen in the dead of winter!!
regards
scott
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I realize some have posted you do not need spec tools for the timing belt, but just how do you manage to set the correct torc on the pulley when you get it all back together--assuming you can get it off? I had thought purhaps the chain vice grips?
as well, how much more work to replace the oil seal on the oil pump if I decide to do it? I am doing the water pump and the idlers from parts I ordered from FCP GROTON...under 300 USD delivered for:
water pump
all idlers
belt
tensioner
I defer to your collective subaru wisdom.
scott (a mere subaru tinkerer)
2001 legacy wagon 2.5 sohc ej252
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It is a manual trans...which ebay kits are the best--any after market better than another? also, given I can do with regulat tools (I hope) do most garages actually remove the rad? Thanks all for the replies//this is great...
scott
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Hello,
I would like to take a stab at doing my timing belt...It would appear I need some special tools for teh crank pulley>>>Anyone know how specialized or expensive?
thanks to all...
scott
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I was not refering to the seal on the thermostat. The brass metal I was referring to was the bi-metalic part that actually causes a thermostat to work in the first instance. (you know, dis-similar metals etc). I am not familiar with brass seals for thermostats
s
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I am throwing this out because I had the exact problem with my 2.2 Legacy...was the thermostat thjat seized closed..due to build up of sludge...I took it out and played with it and noted when I boiled it in water it moved again and scraped some gunk off exposing the fresh brass...put it back in and is now A-1
Just a thought that may save some $$$$
s
Hi everybody, I appreciate all of your help and advice.I posted this last Tuesday:
I have a 1999 Subaru Outback wagon, with about 115,000 miles on it. She's a great runner, with little complaints over the life of the car. Last summer I had the Timing Belt and Water Pump replaced just as general maintenance, to avoid larger problems. (I once had a blown timing belt on the side of the highway in a snowstorm on my older Loyale wagon, once is enough). Driving it to the ski resort today I noticed my temp gauge was slightly above halfway. It normally sits at halfway, even with the steep mountain driving. I only had about two steep miles to go to the parking lot, where I would have cell phone service again. So turned on the heater full-blast and crawled slowly to the parking lot. The temp gauge continued to slowly rise, until I was finally able to pull over at the parking lot, where my car promptly pissed out a good half cup of bright green coolant. I let it cool down, got underneath to find the large black rubber radiator hose on the driver's side was collapsed like a deflated balloon. It looked like there was a vacuum somewhere and the air was being sucked out of the hose. The coolant reservoir was very full at this point and was not draining into the radiator. I let the car cool, and slowly poured water straight into the radiator. At this point the temp gauge was stone cold. I called a mechanic back in town, who told be to drive it very carefully to his shop. I drove (mostly coasted in neutral) back down the road to town, only giving it gas to keep up speed. I had the heater full blast again. With all this the temp gauge stayed at halfway, and the heater never heated up. Got it to the mechanic, who specializes in Subarus (and still I'm wanting to double-check, I know I'm just really optimistic). The mechanic got the car on the lift, found the radiator hose un-deflated, back to it's normal shape, and no coolant in the back-up coolant reservoir. The main reservoir was still full. He informed me that it was most likely a blown head gasket, which would cost roughly $1800 for starters. He told me that sure, it was drivable but would likely continue to overheat the whole way home, and eventually something far worse (and more costly) could occur. Luckily I had my trusty AAA Plus membership and was able to have it towed the 80 miles back home to my driveway, where it now sits, brokenhearted.[/i]
Yesterday, 6 days after it broke down, I needed to move the car. I remembered that it had driven after I'd gotten it off the tow truck just fine. I started it, it had a noticable rattle from the engine. I turned it off, checked the coolant. The main reservoir.....empty, bone dry. Checked the oil....low low low, barely to the first dot on the dipstick. I filled the coolant reservoir with coolant, fresh water into the radiator, and 2 quarts of oil into oil tank. Started her up after that...ran just fine. Drove around my neighborhood...eyes glued to the temp gauge, which was completely normal. Even took it onto the highway for a couple miles...ran like a dream. It sounds completely normal now.
Got it home, let it cool down again. Noticed no leaking of coolant or oil. No noticable change in the coolant or oil levels.
So what is that?!? I thought if it was indeed the head gasket, it would overheat again and again as long as I drove it. Could the overheating last week be related to the oil running low? It's holding coolant now, so does that mean it's not a cracked radiator hose or radiator. I'm mystified.
I'm still taking it into my local shop on Monday morning. They're offered to do a couple tests (exhaust gases in the coolant, etc..) for free to determine if it is the head gasket. And will post what they tell me tomorrow night.[/i]
So I've taken it to two, reputable shops in my neighborhood in Denver. Pro Auto Care told me that there were combustion gases in the coolant, and I needed a new head gasket for about $2000. I took it to another shop in my neighborhood for a second opinion. South Denver Automotive rand three tests: for combustion gases in the coolant, a leakdown test, and a pressure check, all for about $90 bucks. All three tests came back not indicative of the head gasket being the problem. Frankly they can't figure out whats wrong with it. The mechanic even told me he took it out and drove it around, to see if the problem would present itself once the engine warmed up. Nothing. The mechanic admitted to me that they had to resort to using something called Fix it or something like that which he explained to me is an online resource for mehanics who are stumped (kind of like Ultimate Subaru), and the recommendations were the head gasket. He freely admitted to me that their tests were negative, but still advised to do the head gasket repair anyway. The estimate was for $1681, OEM Head Gasket set and labor alltogether.
Im just confused. I almost want to get a third opinion.
Steven
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Hi,
I have 2 subi's--one with a 2.2 (1990 Legacy) and one with a 2.5 (2001 Legacy)...
Is it me, or is the 2.2 a way better engine? It sounds better, runs smoother and is easier to work on (I find)...the 2.2 also has 370 K on it while the 2.5 has 146K ...just my thoughts...I was thinking of selling the '90 but just can't do it...the car is a bit rusted but that old engine is so good...
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I have read thru the posts on here for a while but have a question. I have done my brakes on the old 90 Legacy wagon years ago, but never the 01.
Do I require much more 'skill' to do those brakes? I am thinking of rotors and pads...any other things I should consider? What do most recommend for a non-performance family car?
cheers
scott
Is this a rear main seal leak?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Turns out I am likely ok...this little bugger was the culprit spraying oil everywhere. Looking thru the access hole on top of tranny, the inside looks dry and no oil...