[Front brake pad ?]

in my experience subaru's seem to have forgiving brakes and perform well with just about anything. i've seen cheaper pads perform poorly on other makes, but not really subaru's. not that they're "great" pads, or won't wear quickly, but nothing that big of a deal. i prefer ceramics and have used a few different varieties. there's a zillion different brake options. the adaptive ones from NAPA have new clips in them, i like that but they are expensive.

 

clean the brake pad clips really well (or buy nicer pads that have new clips). and clean and grease the caliper slides. they sell brake caliper grease at the auto parts store. i would just buy the bottle of it as the packs are hardly adequate half the time.

 

subaru brakes are easy, nothing special to it really:

1. remove wheel.

2. caliper takes 1 or 2 bolts (depending what style you have) to remove.

3. clean slides, regrease them. clean all the metal caliper bracket clips

4. press in caliper piston with a c-clamp (remove the brake fluid reservoir for this step - might be pointless for subaru's but a good practice to have as the fluid needs to go somewhere and if it's a sealed system the master cylinder seals can fail).

install pads, caliper, and you're done.

 

occasionally the brake pads are manufactured too big (regardless of what brand you buy) and need to be filed down. there are threads about that but it's fairly straight forward.

 

 

 

Thanks everyone for the helpful advice. I once owned a 90 Loyale turbo sedan and If memory serves, I had to "screw" the brake pistons back into the caliper which may require a special tool that I seemed to have lost.

If all I need is a C clamp to re-seat the piston then the next step is to go to Subaru to see if they will come close to matching the aftermarket price.

It worked when I purchase my VC gasket set and spark plug wires.

I don't want to mess with the rotors as braking is smooth under all conditions, although they do show a "ridge", probably from 202K worth of use.

 

Grossgary, on step #4, did you mean remove the actual brake cyl. reservoir

or just the cap? If you remove the cap, and get wifes turkey baster to suck up excess brake fluid as piston pushes in? I did that on my jeep and it worked pretty well until the wife found out. I won't say how she found out though.

Mike

[Front brake pad ?]

Greetings everyone,

I am in need of new front brake pads on my 91 Legacy Sports Sedan w/202K.

I want to replace the pads only and need a little advice on which pads to purchase and from where, as well as a few suggestions on how to install.

I have tools and previous experience as a mechanic....a long time ago though.

Any advice much appreciated.

Mike

[Rubing noise coming from the drivers side, front area.]

Hi,

 

I have a 1991 Subaru Legacy LS, automatic transmission, disengaged ABS. The car has 246000k on it. I can hear a noise coming from the front drivers side area of vehicle. I start to hear the noise when the car has warmed up and you are driving at a speed of 40 km/h. The noise is not continuous. It is comparable to a noise made by a steam locomotive. The faster you go the faster the noise repeats itself. Past 80km/h you can not hear the noise anymore. Turning does not make the noise louder nor more quiet but you still have to be at a speed above 40 km/h to be able to hear it.

 

I have noticed the noise about one week ago. What is interesting is that last few days when it was raining the noise went away. Today is sunny again and after driving about 15 km the noise came back.

 

Any ideas as what can be the problem?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

I have a 91 Legacy and had a L/rear wheel bearing noise that I neglected

until I went on a 600 mi. trip. The noise was noticeable at 45mph and got louder the faster I went, with the loudest whine occurring about 75, after that, it became less noticeable the faster you went until you heard nothing but road and wind. It was really getting loud by the time I got to where I was going. I put the car on a lift and ran with all 4 wheels off the ground. Use a stethescope in the bearing areas of each wheel while someone else is in the vehicle running in gear and It will be obvious if you have a bearing going out.

Hope this might help.

Mike

[EJ22T valve cover leak ?]

They wanted you to pay $7 a piece for the grommets?!? Glad you got 'em cheaper, but for future reference...

 

 

https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

Part numbers

13271AA051 grommets $2.52 each x6 = $15.12

13294AA012 Gaskets (both sides are the same) $10.04 each x2 = $20.08

$35.20 + shipping...

 

I'll know better next time. Thanks for the info.

I told the Subaru parts man that a local supplier

had the whole kit for $37. and, I think, that's what

inspired him to give me a break on price. Hopefully,

that will continue, since I have 197K and a few things

need attention.

Mike

[EJ22T valve cover leak ?]

i'm surprised you don't have gaskets for both sides, a complete set.

 

I also was surprised that the VC gasket was sold as one in a single package for around $25. The grommets are sold in package of 5 for $7.45 each time 6 equals about $45. I P&Moaned about price and they they let me have the grommets for $25 instead of the $45. I guess sometimes it helps to be a whiner.

Mike

[EJ22T valve cover leak ?]

I'm pretty sure its only 3 bolts.

They may have split up a set or sold you a kit that had a wrong or bad gasket

on one side, and just left the extra grommets in.

 

You should only really need to remove the air cleaner to get access to it, but

my experience is only really with NA models.

Then its just the 3 bolts in the center and replace the gaskets and the

grommets and put it back together the way you got it apart.

 

Twitch

 

Thanks Twitch, that's kinda what I thought about the 3 bolts. It's pretty dirty in that area from the seepage and a bit hard to see much detail. I was thinking of removing the air cleaner assembly and the intake hose, etc; to make it easier to clean the area up before taking apart?

Well, at least I have the grommets for the left side VC.

Thanks again,

Mike

[EJ22T valve cover leak ?]

Hi All,

I have a passenger side valve cover that is leaking onto the exhaust system and causing an unpleasant atmosphere both visually and and in the nose.

I have the parts from Subaru, one gasket and six grommets.

It looks like I have to remove a few things to get access to the area.

I don't have a manual, so any tips from anyone would be most appreciated

I think I only see three bolts holding the VC on, but Subaru sold me six grommets to change.

Thanks everyone.

Mike

[Uh oh..dash warning lights!]

Also, check your battery ground strap. The end on the block for sure. This sounds like it could be a simple aging issue.

 

 

UPDATE: Problem solved, I got tired of my engine performance going away when I most needed it traffic because of the Alt lights coming on and off bench tested it with a bit more determination. A quick trip to part store confirmed no more intermittent reliability problems. Supplier also confirmed and gave me a new one with another year warr.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mike

[Weird Alternator ?]

I`d fix it.

 

 

I'm listening.

 

 

 

UPDATE:

The several days dash lights going on and off resulting in a serious performance loss each time they come on. Not good and was now a safety issue as well. I drove home, removed the alt., placed in on my workbench and tested it with one of my two battery chargers. A quick trip to local auto parts confirmed a dead alt. I returned it to supplier, they tested and gave me a new one with another year warranty. Car is running normal now. Knock on wood!

Thanks for all the help again.

Mike

[I think I have a leaky unit?]

haha I hear ya my friend has a new kia forte SX 6 speed and he said he wishes alot of times he had a auto just because of so much traffic.

 

I find the auto works well

 

Check out revtronix on google. They have a stage 1 and stage 2 chip that goes in the ecu that tunes the boost control solenoid, fuel trims etc etc.

 

I at one point had the stage 2 at 17 psi with a td04 and 06 wrx intercooler on a stock auto tranny. Worked well for a year but the tranny lost all the gears, and i found alot of boost leaks developed because of the crappy intake setup i made. So I am now back to stock and put a working transmission in. I purchased a stage 1 chip this time around which works with everything stock and it will be at 13psi vs stock 8 and get 10% better fuel economy.

 

Wow, cool! do you think they could tell me how to safely fry my alternator?

[Weird Alternator ?]

Since the main output lead of the alternator is hot to the battery is always a good idea to diconnect the battery ground lead before working on the alterntor lead. Also never disconnect the battery with the engine and alternator running. For those that drive into water higher than a few inches they should be prepared for the worst things to happen.

 

Thanks Cougar, what would happen if you disconnect the ground batt cable while the engine was idling? I know it would probably die but could it possibly hurt my alternator, or worse ?

[Weird Alternator ?]

Best thing to do is make sure when you wash the engine bay to cover the alternator and no spray all sorts of cleaners all over like I did which ended up frying my alternator when I took a drive downtown and had to drive home at night with no lights, wipers, defrost, radio on a foggy rainy night.

 

 

So..if I didn't cover the alternator ...and was in possession of .... say a ..high performance squirt bottle and .. my mission is to "clean the windings" that are visibly dirty while the engine is running, would that be ok for the sake of this effort? I don't need much defrosting here in the desert.

Mike

[I think I have a leaky unit?]

I wish! auto non lsd. 91 is the only year with a LSD lucky guy. With my car I can definitely feel I need a LSD just with a auto. If I gun it on asphalt in a turn I can get 1 rear wheel to spin pretty easy. Hopefully this spring I will do a 5spd swap.

 

I lived in HEAVY SNOW country in Colorado when this car suddenly appeared on the ONLY car lot in my small town. I had been looking for one to replace my old 90 Loyale 1.8 turbo w/auto which I sold a yr/2 earlier.

The only thing that might stop this car is getting high centered in snow. Period.

I now know better and moved to Tucson last year and find myself shifting my life away here in the city. I never thought I would like an auto since I like grinding my own gears, but city driving is a bit more busy with shifting etc;

But, this car is so much fun, fast, and gets 30+ mpg on the highway and you don't have to follow anyone for lack of passing ability.

Geez, maybe we should trade cars, but I just put a new windshield wiper on mine so..I dunno...

[Weird Alternator ?]

One way is to click on "User CP" near the top left of the page, then when that opens click on "Send New Message" (on the left, under "Private Messages"). Be sure to enter the "Recipient Username" spelled correctly.

 

Thank you OB99W, once I do this, I'll have it down. Still in the learning curve.

Mike

[Weird Alternator ?]

Sorry for the double post, I'm not too forum savvy.

Mike

[Weird Alternator ?]

Perhaps hankosolder2 will provide details of loving care of alternators via a private message. :lol:

 

That's what I was thinking, but it took me awhile to find my old thread. Now I must learn how to PM to hankosoldr2 for details on this so called preventive maintenance procedure.

[Weird Alternator ?]

Perhaps hankosolder2 will provide details of loving care of alternators via a private message. :lol:

 

That's what I was thinking, but it took me awhile to find my old thread. Now I must learn how to PM to hankosoldr2 for details on this so called preventive maintenance.

[Weird Alternator ?]

Your going to think this is a weird question, but I'm going to ask anyway.

I would like to know what things NOT TO DO to an alternator on the vehicle running or not to prevent perhaps shorting out one or more of the two connectors on the alt. that would result in absolutley frying of the lovely device?

In the interest of keeping my 91 Subaru ej22t, running in a fine state of tune, this info would be very much appreciated.

Thanking you I am.

Mike

[I think I have a leaky unit?]

ericem, I have a 91 5 spd, silver just like yours and same wheels when I purchased the car 4 years ago. I now have aftermarket Tire Rack 5 spoke wheels. Is yours a 5sped as well with the LSD diff.?

Mike

[I think I have a leaky unit?]

when i bought my sensor it already had something red on the threads.

 

I'll look for that sealant on the new sending unit.

Your avatar picture looks exactly like my car.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

[I think I have a leaky unit?]

I bought one at Napa and it worked fine. It is a cheap sensor either way regardless of whether you get it at the dealer or at a auto parts chain.

 

Also I did remove the alternator to gain my room, but I am sure there is a way to get in there with a wrench. Not difficult to remove the alternator. Actually I think I just took off the belt, and tilted mine up.

 

 

Thanks ericem, I'll pick one up from NAPA. I'll also try your tilt the alt. for access. Thank for the tip.

Also, question on what to use to seal the threads? Permetex #2 or the white tape or?

thanks again.

Mike

[I think I have a leaky unit?]

I noticed some oil around what looks to be an oil pressure sending unit. It's located under the alternator and has what looks like a plastic top with a wire attached to it.

I'm pretty sure it's been leaking for awhile. My question is, should I buy Subaru or will any aftermarket work as well ? And do you have to remove the alt. to get to it.?

Engine is a EJ22T, 195K.

Thanks for all your help everyone.

Mike

[Uh oh..dash warning lights!]

I once had a similar problem with a Honda. Alt would charge fine for the first 1/2 hour of driving and then poop out. Dude at the parts store SWORE UP AND DOWN that alternators are never intermittent. I finally got ticked off, pulled the alternator, attached the alternator to a 120V wall cord and plugged it into the wall, brought it back to the store and told them "I think it finally quit will test bad now." The replacement alternator fixed the problem, so my diagnosis was definitely proven correct!

 

Nathan

 

PS: I would not advise doing something simialr unless you are familiar with electrical safety procedures.

 

 

 

It took me awhile to quit giggling and reminds me of previous similar experiences when one has to revert to plan B. I once had toaster that seemed to only work when it was near a sink, so I put it in my bath water. It quit working completely and after I got out of the hospital, I returned it with no problem.

[Uh oh..dash warning lights!]

I would test it at the battery, but your way isnt horrible, your voltage regulator is out of wack. Them not having a mechanic nor having the tester (which is a basic tool for an alt shop as it only takes 1 minute to run a test) is inexcusable.

 

At that high a voltage you are damaging the battery.

 

I dont like this shop.

 

 

nipper

 

Thanks Nipper, I have tested the voltage at the alt. and at the batt. terminals as well as the batt. cable ends all seperatly while engine running and all working normally read in the middle 14's, which, seems to me like it should work all goe's south when the dash lights come on. So far, the batt. is still maintaining high 12 volts so I'm still driving with this on and off situation.

Has anyone installed an aftermarket amp gauge on a Subaru's that dont have full gauges? It sure would make it easier to diagnose this problem.

Mike

[Uh oh..dash warning lights!]

Bench testing is such BS. Have them test it on the car, thats really the only way to test it. They need to use an analog (looks like a big metal cheese greter with jumper cables) tester.

 

You have a bad Alt and may have to buy another one that is built from a reputable shop. I dont know what the online suppliers get for a reubuild for your year (www.1stsubaru.com) etc.

 

If you are not getting full output above 1800 rpm (14 voltish) and everything on, the alt is fried.

 

nipper

 

 

Hi Nipper, when I called them about the alt. I asked if I could just drive it down and have them check it on the car ..(hopefully while the warning light are on and not off, because the voltage changes as well as the rpm of the engine when they go on and off) thinking I could just install new one in parking lot if needed. They said they do not have a mechanic to perform such a task. I thought, well, I got a voltmeter and I can show you that the alternator drops down at least to 12.1 v. and as high as 17 and 19v.

Nipper, maybe I not testing right. I am connecting the + lead (of the voltmeter set to 20v DC) to the large wire on the alt. and grounding the black lead on the alt. housing or nearby engine parts. Am I doing something wrong?

Mike