Megell

Thanks everyone for the helpful advice. I once owned a 90 Loyale turbo sedan and If memory serves, I had to "screw" the brake pistons back into the caliper which may require a special tool that I seemed to have lost. If all I need is a C clamp to re-seat the piston then the next step is to go to Subaru to see if they will come close to matching the aftermarket price. It worked when I purchase my VC gasket set and spark plug wires. I don't want to mess with the rotors as braking is smooth under all conditions, although they do show a "ridge", probably from 202K worth of use. Grossgary, on step #4, did you mean remove the actual brake cyl. reservoir or just the cap? If you remove the cap, and get wifes turkey baster to suck up excess brake fluid as piston pushes in? I did that on my jeep and it worked pretty well until the wife found out. I won't say how she found out though. Mike

Greetings everyone, I am in need of new front brake pads on my 91 Legacy Sports Sedan w/202K. I want to replace the pads only and need a little advice on which pads to purchase and from where, as well as a few suggestions on how to install. I have tools and previous experience as a mechanic....a long time ago though. Any advice much appreciated. Mike

I have a 91 Legacy and had a L/rear wheel bearing noise that I neglected until I went on a 600 mi. trip. The noise was noticeable at 45mph and got louder the faster I went, with the loudest whine occurring about 75, after that, it became less noticeable the faster you went until you heard nothing but road and wind. It was really getting loud by the time I got to where I was going. I put the car on a lift and ran with all 4 wheels off the ground. Use a stethescope in the bearing areas of each wheel while someone else is in the vehicle running in gear and It will be obvious if you have a bearing going out. Hope this might help. Mike

I'll know better next time. Thanks for the info. I told the Subaru parts man that a local supplier had the whole kit for $37. and, I think, that's what inspired him to give me a break on price. Hopefully, that will continue, since I have 197K and a few things need attention. Mike

I also was surprised that the VC gasket was sold as one in a single package for around $25. The grommets are sold in package of 5 for $7.45 each time 6 equals about $45. I P&Moaned about price and they they let me have the grommets for $25 instead of the $45. I guess sometimes it helps to be a whiner. Mike

Thanks Twitch, that's kinda what I thought about the 3 bolts. It's pretty dirty in that area from the seepage and a bit hard to see much detail. I was thinking of removing the air cleaner assembly and the intake hose, etc; to make it easier to clean the area up before taking apart? Well, at least I have the grommets for the left side VC. Thanks again, Mike

Hi All, I have a passenger side valve cover that is leaking onto the exhaust system and causing an unpleasant atmosphere both visually and and in the nose. I have the parts from Subaru, one gasket and six grommets. It looks like I have to remove a few things to get access to the area. I don't have a manual, so any tips from anyone would be most appreciated I think I only see three bolts holding the VC on, but Subaru sold me six grommets to change. Thanks everyone. Mike

UPDATE: Problem solved, I got tired of my engine performance going away when I most needed it traffic because of the Alt lights coming on and off bench tested it with a bit more determination. A quick trip to part store confirmed no more intermittent reliability problems. Supplier also confirmed and gave me a new one with another year warr. Thanks for everyone's help. Mike

I'm listening. UPDATE: The several days dash lights going on and off resulting in a serious performance loss each time they come on. Not good and was now a safety issue as well. I drove home, removed the alt., placed in on my workbench and tested it with one of my two battery chargers. A quick trip to local auto parts confirmed a dead alt. I returned it to supplier, they tested and gave me a new one with another year warranty. Car is running normal now. Knock on wood! Thanks for all the help again. Mike

Wow, cool! do you think they could tell me how to safely fry my alternator?

Thanks Cougar, what would happen if you disconnect the ground batt cable while the engine was idling? I know it would probably die but could it possibly hurt my alternator, or worse ?

So..if I didn't cover the alternator ...and was in possession of .... say a ..high performance squirt bottle and .. my mission is to "clean the windings" that are visibly dirty while the engine is running, would that be ok for the sake of this effort? I don't need much defrosting here in the desert. Mike

I lived in HEAVY SNOW country in Colorado when this car suddenly appeared on the ONLY car lot in my small town. I had been looking for one to replace my old 90 Loyale 1.8 turbo w/auto which I sold a yr/2 earlier. The only thing that might stop this car is getting high centered in snow. Period. I now know better and moved to Tucson last year and find myself shifting my life away here in the city. I never thought I would like an auto since I like grinding my own gears, but city driving is a bit more busy with shifting etc; But, this car is so much fun, fast, and gets 30+ mpg on the highway and you don't have to follow anyone for lack of passing ability. Geez, maybe we should trade cars, but I just put a new windshield wiper on mine so..I dunno...

Thank you OB99W, once I do this, I'll have it down. Still in the learning curve. Mike

Sorry for the double post, I'm not too forum savvy. Mike

That's what I was thinking, but it took me awhile to find my old thread. Now I must learn how to PM to hankosoldr2 for details on this so called preventive maintenance procedure.

That's what I was thinking, but it took me awhile to find my old thread. Now I must learn how to PM to hankosoldr2 for details on this so called preventive maintenance.

Your going to think this is a weird question, but I'm going to ask anyway. I would like to know what things NOT TO DO to an alternator on the vehicle running or not to prevent perhaps shorting out one or more of the two connectors on the alt. that would result in absolutley frying of the lovely device? In the interest of keeping my 91 Subaru ej22t, running in a fine state of tune, this info would be very much appreciated. Thanking you I am. Mike

ericem, I have a 91 5 spd, silver just like yours and same wheels when I purchased the car 4 years ago. I now have aftermarket Tire Rack 5 spoke wheels. Is yours a 5sped as well with the LSD diff.? Mike

I'll look for that sealant on the new sending unit. Your avatar picture looks exactly like my car. Thanks for your help. Mike

Thanks ericem, I'll pick one up from NAPA. I'll also try your tilt the alt. for access. Thank for the tip. Also, question on what to use to seal the threads? Permetex #2 or the white tape or? thanks again. Mike

I noticed some oil around what looks to be an oil pressure sending unit. It's located under the alternator and has what looks like a plastic top with a wire attached to it. I'm pretty sure it's been leaking for awhile. My question is, should I buy Subaru or will any aftermarket work as well ? And do you have to remove the alt. to get to it.? Engine is a EJ22T, 195K. Thanks for all your help everyone. Mike

It took me awhile to quit giggling and reminds me of previous similar experiences when one has to revert to plan B. I once had toaster that seemed to only work when it was near a sink, so I put it in my bath water. It quit working completely and after I got out of the hospital, I returned it with no problem.

Thanks Nipper, I have tested the voltage at the alt. and at the batt. terminals as well as the batt. cable ends all seperatly while engine running and all working normally read in the middle 14's, which, seems to me like it should work all goe's south when the dash lights come on. So far, the batt. is still maintaining high 12 volts so I'm still driving with this on and off situation. Has anyone installed an aftermarket amp gauge on a Subaru's that dont have full gauges? It sure would make it easier to diagnose this problem. Mike

Hi Nipper, when I called them about the alt. I asked if I could just drive it down and have them check it on the car ..(hopefully while the warning light are on and not off, because the voltage changes as well as the rpm of the engine when they go on and off) thinking I could just install new one in parking lot if needed. They said they do not have a mechanic to perform such a task. I thought, well, I got a voltmeter and I can show you that the alternator drops down at least to 12.1 v. and as high as 17 and 19v. Nipper, maybe I not testing right. I am connecting the + lead (of the voltmeter set to 20v DC) to the large wire on the alt. and grounding the black lead on the alt. housing or nearby engine parts. Am I doing something wrong? Mike