Megell

Thanks for the uplift....I thought the 129 mph was a bit anemic for this car. I just got my 91 turbo sedan back from the dealer with new clutch and can now enjoy a few tests of my own. 7000" altitude isn't going to help much though. Mike

91 legacey turbo specs list top speed at 129 mph. Don't know if that's up hill or not. Mike

The sunroof on my 91 turbo sedan works intermittantly too. Try giving it a decisive slap on the headliner around the dome light and it will probably work again. At least that works for mine. Must be some weak connection or something. Mike

Keep in mind that "anything" that you do to a four cylinder car can make a drastic difference in the performance. Changing gear ratios due to tire/wheel combinations, especially larger, will sometimes seem like someone stuffed a potato in your exhaust. After all it is only a four cylinder engine. For example(?), if your eight cylinder engine is "missing" on one cylinder, you still have the other seven cylinders firing and the performace drop is noticable, but it's only 1/8th of a drop. On a four cylinder engine, it is a 25 percent drop in hp and performance. So, my point here, is it doesn't take much to make a more significant difference in performance with a four banger engine. Add a several pounds of humans to the car and performance will drop accordingly. Mike

I took the car in for a clutch replacement, knowing that at 162K, it would probably need it at some point soon, because the clutch pedal feel, felt "weak" even though there was no sign of shuttering or slippage. I just wanted make sure the car was as new in that department (clutch area), especially since I have repainted the car and installed nice alloys (five spoke from Tire Rack), new rear struts/R brakes (pads) , Tires etc; or whatever it needed. Now it seems , that dealer thinks, that the "hydraulics" might be a possible reason why the "low pedal" engagement of the NEW clutch since they took it apart for the second time and nothing was installed wrong. I hear what you are saying regarding the slave cyl mentioned that that might be a "area of interest" and that there was too much freeplay in the slave cyl shaft. Ok, I'm ranting again.. Thanks for your accurate input on this and I'm with you on the current problem of lack of or not much clutch pedal engagement. Interesting thought though. With new clutch installed, If indeed there was air in the line, why would it be much more pronounced with a new clutch and making the car almost undriveable due to the clutch "engageing way too soon) and they said they did not loosen any of the clutch hydraulic lines. So, how come the clutch isn't better, than it was before the new clutch assy, I don't know, but something happened that made that aspect of the clutch operation "badly different". Mike

Update! Camosuba, there are no adjustment "threads" on the clutch pedal rod that goes into the master cyl. to take up the "excessive pedal play" on my 91 legacy. After a long labor day weekend with this nagging clutch problem lingering in the background and with all the inconveniences associated with what should have been a pretty much straightforward clutch job performed by a Subaru dealership. The car was flat-bedded back to the dealership on Tuesday (next day after holiday weekend, their expense). Now (Wednesday), dealer said that the flywheel has some marginal hotspots ( apparently after less than 55 highway miles drive back home, which it didn't even make (back home) on the fly wheel caused by ( umm, what the 55 drive back home?) Ok, Now they want me to pop 380. for a new flywheel, or they won't stand behing the clutch warranty (two yrs, unlimited mileage). My argument is that the service mgr. told me that the flywheel was ok and they just de-glazed it. Fine. So, after a three way conference telephone call with the service mgr, service writer, I suggested that in order to resolve this "issure", that I would pay for 1/2 of the cost of the flywheel ($380.) and they would install another new clutch assy. and honer the two year unlimited mileage warranty. Keeping in mind here that the new clutch "shuttered" when I picked it up (not to mention, the car was almost undriveable due to not dissengaging completely when I picked it up, It did not do that when I brought it to them.) So, I get a new flywheel for under two hundred and I will pay for the clutch slave cyl. and everybody is "happy" Sorry for Off Gassing on you guys, but it's been really stressful working with what I thought was going to be relatively straight forward clutch replacement job. What really pisses me off is that when you take your car into (in this case, the Subaru dealership) for a common repair job (or any job for that matter) and anything goes wrong, that you are at fault. It took alot of persistant crabbing and negotiatiating, but at least I feel a bit better about the whole thing. At least until I go to the dealership again to get me car. Again, sorry for long crab. Mike

Thanks nipper, I hear ya ....about the bleeding the system , but dealer did not loosen any of the clutch cyl. lines and there is no sign of leakage at the push rod area of the slave cyl. However, I did notice a lot of play when pushing the rod into the slave cyl. (kinda like it might have air in the sytem), but if I mess with it, I might void my warrantee, so can't do a whole lot except have patience and know that next week will be the beginning of a new saga on the clutch replacement efforts with the Subaru dealership. TGIF, Mike

Went to the dealership this morning to pick up my 91 Legacy sports sedan that I took in for a clutch job. I pay the $1259.19 for the following: new clutch assy., rear main seal and oil seperator, trans and rear diff oil change and tune up with plugs, wires, air filter and fuel filter. Got in car and started it up and lifted my foot off of the clutch gently and the clutch immediately engaged (like way too soon) and the car lurched forward and I thought WTF (what the fookay!) Service dude sez that basically in so many words that that is the way it is supposed to be and that there is no way to adust it up to a more normal pedal engagment. OK, so I drive the car back home (60 miles) and stop for one errand (to get some beers) and start the car and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. OK again, I call the dealer and let them know the latest news on the repair job and they tell me that the throwout brg might not have stayed in place during re-assembly, and that the clutch works the opposite way and "normal clutch" works and that the T/O bearing "pulls" on the pressure plate instead of "pushing" on the pressure plate. I don't understand how this system can work. Sorry for the long topic here, but is this true that the clutch works in the opposite direction of a normal clutch assembly, like on american cars. I have installed, over the years a few dozen clutch jobs on various vehicles and this is a new one on me. The clutch acts like there is air in the line to me, but dealer sez they did not disturb that part of the system (hydraulic clutch). Any info is much appreciated since the car is going to be flatbedded back to dealership on Tuesday and I want to go armed with as much info as possible. Another interesting thing is that they charged me for 9.5 hrs of labor when they only had the car for one day and a total of 8 hrs. Mike

My 91 turbo sedan/5 spd. has 166K. The only other one in town is a 92 turbo sedan and he has over 300K on his with only routine maintenance. He said he has never even had a bulb burn out. Mike

So, then someone did mess with the electrical system!! Glad it was something simple. Mike

Oh, Man! As Click and Clack would say....."doesn't anyone screen these calls". OK, has anyone worked on the car recently for any reason, especially in the electrical system? Body work? Ummm.... Are parking lights "normal" when you turn the light switch, like are they the "same brightness" as the two rear lights that's not supposed to be on? Somehow, the rear bulbs are getting juice when they are not supposed to. Light switch short? Umm...?

OOPS!...Sorry you guys.....OLd age setting in..... I ment to post this on the Jeep Forum site. Thanks for the heads up Gnuman. Mike

Doe's anyone know offhand if you need to lift the engine (4.0) to replace the oil pan gasket on a 99 Cherokee w/auto trans. Suspension is stock. Thanks in advance. Mike

Actually, the Gen 1 Legacy sports sedan has a "functional" hood scoop and allows air to be "pushed" over the turbo. At least my 91 Legacy sports sedan is that way. I think most if not all turbo Subaru's have a funtional air scoop. I do agree however, that fake hood scoops on other Subaru's a waste. Mike

Four things come to mind: Vacuum Leak Exhaust leak Exhaust heat shield rattle Someone installed a turbo when you wern't looking

I have dentures. I'm gonna try soaking my lens overnight with one of those little fizzy tablets in warm water. I'll get back to you in the morning with the results.

Sorry Nipper, 91 Legacy Sports Sedan. I reread it and it sounded like I was talking about some sort of Chevelle or Monte Carlo. Sorry again, Mike

Would anyone have any idea as to where to acquire a sunroof wind deflector for a 91 Legacy SS. I just painted the car and and am now ready for the deflector. I tried a few places on the internet but can't seem to find one for the Subaru. Thanks in advance, Mike

Hopefully not removing windows. Relying on careful masking and prep work for the new silver paint job (944 code). Living in Colorado mtns it doesn't need to be concourse, but just nice and somewhat tidy to the eye. Drying/setting is no problem if I can keep reminding myself to NOT lower any windows on the hour long trip back to Pagosa from Durango. mike

OK, I called Sun Control in Durango and was quoted $229.00 for tinting a 91 Legacy sedan. I asked if I could bring my own kit for Larry to install and was told no problem. The price breakdown is $129. for parts, $100 for labor. Bingo, a 100 dollars. I can handle that for a pro job. So that's what I'm gonna do. I wonder if I should do this before painting the car or after. Probably doesn't matter seeing that it's only inside work on the windows. Mike BTW, the kit on ebay totaled 39.99 delivered.

Denver sounds good, except that it's a 540 mile round trip to get there and back. Durango is 60 miles one way and theres a guy there that I've used before. Maybe I'll give him a call today to see if he will install the kit I just won on ebay. It would at least save him from having to cut the film, but I usually don't like taking my own parts to a mechanic for installation. It'l like taking your own eggs to the diner for them to make you breakfast. We'll see. Mike