Megell

Thanks, that's what I thought. Just wanted to make sure I didn't screw up by going synthetic at $40 a shot on my 91 Leg turbo sedan w/162k. Mike

Passenger side on mine is completely inoperable. Had to cut the cable because it was hanging out and in the way. I ordered a replacement assembly on Ebay. I'm with you I don't like these things. I wonder if a standard type of shoulder belt could be bolted to the center pillar and still be safe?? Mike

Do you mean because of the synthetic oil use that so many Volvos need repairing or because of the turbo still being cooled with oil only? Mike

Right on! Work the turbo hard, let it cool for a minute or two. Typical errands around town, not really necessary. Either way, all the more reason to use a good synthetic in turbo engines. Amsoil, if I remember correctly is good to about 600 degrees before the oil starts breaking down. Mike

You might also use a liberal amount of anti-seiz compound on all the threads during reassembly, in case they need service again in the future. Mike

Synthetic oil IS slicker than conventional oil. Drain the oil out of an engine with sythetic and one with conventional oil and you can "feel" the difference. If you don't feel the difference, try dropping a socket in each pan and try to pick it out of the oil and you will be surprised at the difference. I least I was. And thank you for agreeing with me on the Pennzoil of the 80's etc; That's what I was refering to. I don't know if they improved their oil in the 21st century because I don't ever use it. Mike

I just purchase a 91 Legacy Turbo sedan with 162K miles. I changed to Mobil 1 10/30 because of the turbo. I notices later a little Pennzoil sticker inside the windshield. Augh! I hate Pennziol. I wouldn't use it lubricate a rusty nail. It cakes the inside of an engine, especially bad for a Sub. I dont care if it does start leaking due to the change. I'm going into the dealer for a clutch change and have them change the rear main seal at the same time just in case. All other seals can simply be changed at next T. belt service. I just picked up 2 mpg from the slicker synthetic. Mike

And then...just put in another engine and keep on going.

Duh! I'll try the "off" button solution next time it does it. Never thought of that when it's 5 degrees outside, thanks. It does have sort of an electronic sound, like maybe a relay gone berserk, but hopefully it's just the speedo cable. I hope I can pull the cable from the transmission end, I don't really want to take the nice dash apart. Thanks, Mike

Duh!....I'll try that little "off" button solution next time it does it. Didn't think of that when it 5 degrees outside, thanks. Mike

Thanks, it is similar to the sound of a blower motor going bad, but much louder and "shriller" and right in front of me behind the dash cluster. I'm not sure where the blower motor is on this car but will look for it and see if it's a possibility. I will also check the speedo cable and maybe lube it with graphite and see if it makes a difference. Mike

Thanks for the reply guys. I just bought the car two weeks ago. It has 163K on it and was nicely surprised how nice it ran. Click starts on even the coldest morning, quiet and smooth. Everything works. I put on new tires, rear struts and r. brake pads and and changed to Mobil 1. I actually stepped on a ducks rump roast one time and that's what the sound was like. First I looked at the speedo and all was normal. No erratic movements, and then I thought about some sort of buzzer going berserk. But I don't have any buzzers that I've heard, only chimes. It does get louder on acceleration and then all of a sudden just goes away. 15 degrees this morning and no squaking sounds. Doesn't seem to effect performance. Mike

Sorry, but that's what it sounds like. 91 legacy turbo sedan. It's happened three times now and only when it's been around zero the night before. It's a real shrill squaking sound comming from behind the dashboard on the drivers side. Seems to be speed related and lasts for about a block or two and then quits and then maybe one more time for a shorter time, and then it's fine. It's very loud inside the car, I don't know if it can be heard outside or not and it's only when the car is moving. BTY, this is my first post in a couple of years. I used to have a 90 Loyale turbo sedan and also a lifted Brat w a 92 legacy 2.2 engine/trans. Thanks you guys and hello again. Mike Christie

CIS Subaru, Rounded side out (towards nut). You want the washer to "quash" against the center cone. Put it on the wrong way...... and bye bye hub and cone. Replace cone and washer ($10.00 each from SOA) together at the same time... providing the hub is still good. BTW, I have one good hub that I just purchased used. It is in very nice condition. I bought two but only used one. (sold car) Megell

I just went through this with my 90 Loyale turbo sedan. I had the 4spd auto replaced this spring and a couple of K miles later I hear a strange growling sound when I let off the trottle on hiways. Turn the steering either way and ..no sound. I checked the recently re-installed axles (one new) nuts. Both washers were backwards resulting in a loosing of the castle nut and therefore wearing out the hub and center piece. Subaru wanted 280. for one of the hubs and ten dollars each for the cone (2) and washers (2) and since there all trashed now, all must be replaced. I found a good set of hubs and ordered new cones. I didn't replace the washer, but turned them correctly around and torqued to #145. BTW, I would highly recommend SUPER-RUPAIR in Boulder, Colorado for some of you parts needs. These guys have been great for me and their prices very fare. The hubs I got from them were just fine and only $20. ea. Check em out. Megell

I have found that after making sure the mating surfaces are flat, that using a light coat of Permatex #2 (non-hardening) on both sides of the gasket prevents leaks as well as the silicone, except it doesn't seem to be affected by hot oil over time like some silicone sealers do. Also, you don't want the excess silicone on the inside of your tranny. Megell

I changed the trans oil on my 90 Loyale 4spd auto and found that the aftermarket replacement filter needed to be "notched" for clearance of one of the oil line tubes so I would recomend going to the Sub dealer for the filter and gasket. I used a light coating of Permatex #2 on both sides of gasket and gently tightened the 10mm bolts across from each other. Don't overtighten the bolts. I just refilled with 8qts prox of trans oil and drove it about 500 miles and then just drained and refilled with fresh oil. Best tranny flush is probably through dealer if they have the power flush system available. Unfortunatly, my differential failed not long after that and I had to replace the complete unit. Hope this helps, Megell