Megell
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Posts posted by Megell
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I use hose clamps
Grammy thinks you are correct.
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Now you have to worry about flats from bolts from Rooster2 car.
Bolts are ok, it's the washers that are the problem. I had a flat tire this morning on the way to the local brewpub/coffee shop and found a 3/8 lock washer sticking out of my tread. Obviously, carelessly littered by someone trying to fix their Subaru heat shield problems. I for one found that just simply turning up the radio helps considerably unless anyone is with with you with hearing issues.
My grandmother thinks the expanding and contraction of the exhaust system is the biggest problem and contributes to failure of a permanant solution. She's on drugs, so I don't know about that.
Megell
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Those are the harbor freight nitrile gloves. When they're onsale for $5 a box in the XL size it's a bargain! Summitracing was also closing out their gloves for $5 a box last year. Oh yes we get ladybugs in NY. Hasn't been too bad the last couple years, but like four years ago there were literally hundreds of thousands of them around the garage and yard and stuff. I read they released a few million up in Toronto to try to combat something.
Sorry to everyone for this being a bit off topic, but the blue glove you mention, I think they have a rather rough surface that works well in oily mechanical work. 5 bucks a box is deal. I pay 7-8 for the cheap stuff around here.
I hear the fireflys eat their mate after, well you know what...oh maybe thats the black widow spider that I'm thinking of.
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hehe, that's just a glove I put over the throttle intake to keep spiders, ladybugs, flies, bees, etc. from getting in there while I was doing the timing belt and some other work.
Ha! I thought those gloves looked familiar. High grade blue gloves indeed! I have few of those left out in the garage and save them for special occaisions. Meanwhile, I use the cheap vinayl (sp?) inspection gloves for normal everyday use (if you want to call that normal). So... you have ladybugs in New York?
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That'd be one way to do it! If you have a manual trans you can just put 'er in fifth to hold the crank while you torque up the bolt a little more. If you have an auto you can cram a small pry bar or brake adjuster tool or something like that in the flywheel plate. There's a little access hole right near the TPS.
I would torque it to the 125 at least. There have been a number of horror picture posts about what happens when the bolt loosens up....
OK, mine is a 5spd. I can get or may have a 22mm socket and can retorque with someone on the brake pedal and in 5th gear. My only question now is.....what is that funny blue looking glove in your first picture?
Mike
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tell him there have been multiple cases of crank pulley/keyway boogering when not torqued to 130 ft lbs. ask him to garrantee it won't let loose and screww up your crank. get him to garrantee, in writing, he will fix it for free.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I explained to him about the fact that the crank pulley could come loose and damage the key and pulley and he said he never had one come loose..
He's the only one around here that works on Subarus and has, as far as I know has done a pretty good job. but all it takes is one screwup on something as important as the crank pulley torque...I don't my car to be the first one to experience ..missinformation.
So, What if I let him do the 180K service ...and then drive it home the couple of miles and then Torque it myself to 125 or 130. Whadda think about that?? I have a nice Central Tool 1/2" torque wrench (Clicker) that I've had for 30 years.
At least I'd know that it was torqued down tight.
Mike
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Thank you for the information, that's what I thought. Now, I'm not quite sure what to do. I don't want to try to tell the mechanic what I want it torqued to versus his 99 lbs according to his book. I guess I'll call Subaru over in Durango and see what they say.
I believe what you guys are saying. I just don't quite know how to get it across to my mechanic here in this small town.
Mike
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Sorry guys, I know there is a thread on this question about the torque on the crankshaft bolt on the 2.2 engine and I'm trying to sort out what is the actual torque for a 1991 Legacy Sports Sedan (Turbo/5spd). I have 176+K, and am planning a 1500 mile trip at the end of the month. My local mechanic, that I talked to today said the torque on the crank bolt is 99 ftlbs. At first he said it was 89 ftlbs and then read further in his manual. I thought I read on this forum that the torque was considerably higher. I might be wrong on this but I don't want to take a chance on having my crank pulley coming loose when he does the timming belts sometime after I return and the 180K mileage range. He also assured me that he never had one come loose. I know you guys are very knowledgeable on this subject. Can you please refresh me on the correct torque for the crank pulley bolt on the 2.2.
Thanks and happy new year to everyone.
Megell
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You might also check to make sure that the axle washer is on the right way.
My mechanic got them on backwards when they changed the tranny on my old 90 Loyale turbo sedan. It ruined the hubs because of it.
The washer is just a bit concave(?) and is designed to keep pressure on the nut. Put it on backwards and you can't keep the nut tight.
Don't know if that applies to your car or not though.
Megell
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The Subaru numbers are wrong. There are more than 788 Legacy Turbo's and 15 5MT SS's. Check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org
That's what I thought, Thanks Manarius.
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There is a 91 Legacy Sports sedan with 5spd, turbo on Ebay and according to the description, there was only 15 of the 5 speeds shipped to the U.S.
Is this correct that there was only a few hundred sports sedans and only 15 with the five speeds.
In my small town in Colorado, there are three, mine with the five speed and ...I don't know about the other two, but will keep in mind to check.
Anyone know for sure?
Thanks,
Mike
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As Manarius has said, the only fully closed-deck EJ-series engine Subaru has ever sold in the USA is the EJ22T that is in the 91-94 Legacy Turbo. (It is NOT an EJ22G as the SPD website suggests.)
The EJ205 that was in the 02-05 WRXs is open-deck. The EJ255 and EJ257, the 2.5 turbo engines, are semi-closed deck.
And the EJ25 is NOT a bored-out EJ22. Yes, the bore is larger, but so is the stroke.
I thought that the EJ25 was bored and stroked 2.2 and that in order to compensate for the stroking, the piston pin had to be relocated so the piston would not rise above the deck. This resulted in the piston skirts hitting the crank and to compensate for that, they cut the piston skirts down and is the reason for the piston slap that is so common on that engine. I could be wrong though.
Mike
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And of course, the most important thing... beer!
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or the huge chunk of aluminum fomr my engine block
nipper
OUCH!
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I have stuffed mine with aluminum foil, that seemed to work
nipper
Oh! Great!..now I'm gonna have to worry about a flat tire from your aluminum foil!
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You can:
1) Cut them off. I personally don't like this approach. They are there for a reason.
2) Use worm gear clamps. Wrap around them and tighten them down. I've done this successfully (on non-subaru cars) in the past.
3) Some have recommended stuffing (stainless) steel wool in between the sheild and the pipe. Can work. May not be too permanent though.
4) Turn up the radio.
5) Replace them. But I don't think this is an option for the ones you speak of.
6) ????
Some ideas for you.
Commuter[/quote
Personally, I use them as a conversation topic. Most of my passengers ask, "Don't you think you rear end is going to fall out?, Sounds like s--t when you let off the gas" or I gotta go to the bathroom, could you pull over please.
OK, it's starting to bug me too now, so may have to do something about it now that you brought it up.
I would be interested in a remedy as well, without having to remove "a factory installed safety feature".
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Just had to replace the clutch including the fly wheel on a 2005 2.5XT outback wagon with 13.5k miles. Does anyone have an opinion on how long subie clutches last? A friend told me she's done 3 on her car, the first with under 28k on the car. My experience with non subies is they go for at least 100k. Comments?? Please note all drivers of the 2.5 XT are experienced in driving manual transmissions.
I replaced mine at 162K (91 Sports Sedan w/turbo). It was still working ok, but it felt like the pressure plate was getting weak. The old clutch disc looked like it would have gone another several thousand miles.
If you burned up a new clutch and flywheel in less than 14K with normal driving, something is seriously wrong.
Mike
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I have a '95 Legacy FWD, bought used about 3 yrs ago. It has about 133K on it. A few days ago my check engine light goes on, I'm concerned but the car seems fine so I'm thinking it's a bad sensor.
Last night I'm driving and happen to glance at the temp gauge, it's nearing the top of the scale. I turn the heater on and set the temp to hot; the needle moves down to the middle. After a few minutes, though, the air is blowing cold and the needle starts moving back up. After a minute or two more, though, the air starts getting warm again and the needle moves down to the middle. I made it home without further incident.
This morning I check the coolant reservoir and it's empty. I have never been motivated to fill or even check the coolant level in this car since it ALWAYS ran cool (needle just under the middle). Yes, my bad.
One thing is that I have no owner manual. I remember reading somewhere that you add coolant to the reservoir, NOT by opening the cap and pouring directly into the radiator. Am I right? Is there anything else I need to know about this simple procedure?
Now the question is if this is a new problem or just my lazyness in checking the coolant level. The oil looks OK, but I haven't yet checked to see if there's steam coming from the tailpipe.
Hoping this is just the thermostat and low coolant level...any advice is appreciated, thanks!
I would visually check closely for leaks, but it sounds like maybe it was just time to check the antifreeze level and top off. I would just fill it back to upper level and keep a close eye on the gauge. It it still heats up, you may have to "burp" the system to clear the air out of the system.
Ummmm,....... you may want to check your oil level while you are at it.
Mike
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You cannot get a 1st gen turbo sedan without auto seatbelts, these were only made from 91-94 and all these years had the auto seat belts.
These are pretty rare cars, so it might take a while to find.
Ahhh! ....Nothing like the sound of several mechanical mechanisms booting up when you simply turn the ignition on. Shoulder belts and radio antanae and fuel pump, OK , I only want to hear the fuel pump.
Luckily, my 91ss, when I bought it early this year, only one of the automatic seat belts worked, unfortunatly, it was my side. Passengers side did nothing.
I "felt" I had to unplug mine, due to "safety issues", "as unreliable" and just use the factory supplied lap belts.
Now, I only hear the secure feeling of my fuel pump pressurizing, and of course, the worn out gears on my automatic radio antanae (spl?).
If you are interested the the gen 1 Legacys don't let the auto seat belts stop you. I have one and I love it.
Mike
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Why not tune and boost a EJ22T? They have those nice little oil squirter things everyone loves, plus it's the strongest block to ever come out of Subaru.
And, it already has the forged internals.....
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sometimes warm start issues are engine coolant temp sensor
Also, check for vacuum leaks and air intake leaks.
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Get your feet wet . . . racing on frozen lakes? Hmmmm!
A friend of mine, back in mid sixities tried that, but the lake wasn't frozen. Don't know if the car is still there or not.
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Well first I would make sure you can make the 'business case' for this conversion. You must accurately calculate over the lifetime of the vehicle or how long you plan to keep it what your savings will be to go to propane vs. just stay with gasoline. Don't forget the time value of money at whatever percentage you think it is; you have to shell out cash up front for the propane conversion.
Propane conversions usually require a vaporizer tied in somehow to the engine coolant system so it doesn't freeze up. Not a big deal; your conversion would include one if it's needed.
Dual fuel propane is popular on diesel engines because of increased hp. Natural gas can be a little more tricky because the pressures in the tank could be like 3000psi as it doesn't liquify at relatively low pressures like propane does, thus making LPG. I would absolutely love to convert my vehicles to NG but haven't found a reasonable way to do it.
I tried a little propane experiment, just routing a little propane from those small camping cylinders into the intake just to see if there was a mileage incrase, sort of a synergy experiment.
The "vaporizer" that you mention, I think, is called a "converter". It's job is to convert LPG to gas vapors (if memory serves) before it enters the "mixer" (carburetor) to feed the engine. It has two diaphrams and one side has engine coolant running through it to heat up the LPG gas which is then vaporized and sent into the other diaphram chamber which controls the "demand" before it enters the carb. or "mixer". The system also incorporates a "lock off valve" inline so that when you turn the ignition on, it allows fuel to the mixer.
It's been said that propane is safer than gasoline and I won't argue that point except that if/when it does ignite when it's not supposed to, it is much more explosive than gasoline. It also has a high specific gravity meaning the when propane leaks from a storage system it will fall to the ground instead of rising into and dissapating into the air, therefore making it more dangerous. I've seen RV mechanics loosing most of there hair and wind up with third degree burns just from the amount of propane in the line and ignite it just from laying on the carpet on the inside of a motor home. Static electricity WILL set it off. Again, my experience is a few decades old, so I don't know how much things have changed regarding conversions, but I can only assume that technology has advanced some of the systems.
Mike
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I love my 1997 Outback but the gas prices for my commute to a property 400 km away is killing me. I have found a propane conversation place that says I can do it (duel fuel system), but another place I called says I shouldn't. Has anyone out there had any problems with it?
I have performed several gas engine to propane conversions in the late seventies and early eighties when I used to work for a high altitude, high performance propane dealer. First concern is where do you store the LP tank in an OB. Inside is out of the question Due to expansion/saftey issues. Outside would be "interesting, if you like pontoons". Most of my conversions were performed on pickup truck types and not fuel injected as all of todays cars and trucks are. Fuel tank location were mostly either in the bed of the truck and/or underneath the driver/passenger front door between the frame rail and body, tucked underneath the door.
Also consider that you loose about 20 to 25% performance without modifying the engine to compensate.
One other nice thing about burning LP is that there is almost no fuel contamination in the engine, which means longer life of the oil and the engine in general, especially if you use synthetic oil, and water vapor is much of the exhaust vapors, so LP is more earth friendly in that way.
Mike
how many miles does your Ej22 have??
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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1991 Legacy Sports Sedan, EJ22T, 5 speed. Bought it two years ago with 162k and needed tires, clutch and rear struts & brake pads. Had that done along with replacing the rear main seal as I wanted to switch to full synthetic, and added a paint job, (I painted it myself), oh, and a set of nice 5 spoke aluminum wheels from Tire Rack. I have 178500 or so now and have only had to replace the right front CV axle.
Summer gas mileage around town is 24 mpg to 26 mpg depending on how trifty or the opposite I want to be. Winter time it is only around 19 mpg average.
Hiway driving at 60 -65 through mountains at 7000' elevation in the summer is in the 30mpg range. Cruising at or over the century mark in areas such a norther Arizona or New Mexico where you can see for a long distance reduces that 30mpg figure to around 26mpg. Don't ask me how I know that and please don't try this a home.
The only concern of mine at the moment is in the morning when I firt start it , the rpm jumps up to near 2000 rpm, on a cold engine. Also it takes several seconds for the engine to come back down from around 1100 -1200 rpm to idle at around 700 even after is has been warmed up and driven. Not so bad in the summer, but I don't like that in the cold of winter. IAC or something? Not sure , but I love this car.
Mike