06SubLegTx

December 2, 2017

Hello,

So my Legacy is starting to pull a 0420 code, due to the previous owner doing improper repairs or lack of work, thus causing damage to the cat.

Has anyone ever seen this modeled installed or any feedback good or bad.

https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=52305

November 26, 2017

283k miles. have not checked the engine ground straps. will do. battery posts very clean. injectors have not been pro cleaned.

this used to be a hwy car on a 85 mile commute daily until I retired. last 2 years just run around town 5 miles at a time. does this point to something.?

it bogs down a little from a start and then when the rpms are up , it runs fine for a bit like the number 2 is firing ok. then bogs at lower rpms.

can try some injector cleaner in gas and check those ground straps. have owned the car since 05 and never checked those. the motor was taken out for headgaskets about 100k miles ago.

My 06 Legacy with 99k, was a northern car. My driver ground strap was held on by 1 stand... Maybe EGR Valve is clogged shut or open. Mine was very dirty at 99k, yours might be not working at all. The Subaru one are not expensive

November 26, 2017

throwing 402 code on my 99 ob.

so changed plug, coil and wires.

still running rough and throwing this misfire code.

anything else i can do? going to do compression check tomorrow.

Hello, How many miles on the car? Have you inspected the Engine Ground Straps under the car? One on each side of the engine? How are the battery cable / post? very Clean?

Have you ever had the injectors properly / professionally cleaned? My 06 Legacy with 99k on it have 2 injectors that were not properly working.

November 26, 2017

Hello,

I have a 2006 Legacy 2.5I Automatic

When I am drive @ 65-75 MPH with Cruise Control on, and the car is between a hill and flat area, I can feel the car "accelerate" then "decelerating " more that I think it is suppose to.

I run 93 octane fuel.

Injectors were professionally cleaned and tested.

New Plugs, Ignition Coil(Subaru), Ignition Wires (Subaru), Timing Belt New (Subaru) all new components (Subaru)

The engine runs smooth.

I just notice this when cruise is on going up a hill.

Thoughts?

September 17, 2017

Job is done. No need to reply, thanks

September 17, 2017

Hi, I am driving a 2004 Legacy with the EJ251. I've been having trouble diagnosing the P303 3rd cyl misfire.

I tried changing the wires, plugs, and ignition coil. It went away for four days and then it came back.

I've noticed that it would sometimes turn off during cooler days and it would stay off for like two days before coming back on again. On hot days it would take longer to start and it would come back on.

I've also noticed that when the fuel tank is near empty it turns off and then comes back on when I fill up.

My only conclusion now is possibly the fuel injector. I am planning on replacing it and see what happens.

Any advice and information is greatly appreciated.

Thank You

Goat

Are these subaru parts or aftermarket ones?

September 17, 2017

THANK YOU for the help and advice!!

O.k. I called the dealer and the SUBARU head gasket is 70.14 EACH!!

I cant do that...The one(that mentions Graphite) I found on Rock Auto is 10.82 and MAHLE ORIGINAL/VICTOR REINZ 5905.

Any thoughts?

If you do any other gasket, you will be doing the head gasket again. There is NO better head gasket than Subaru, or Six Star. Also, look at the engine to chassis Ground Strap. Battery connections/terminals on both ends need to be very clean.

https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gaskets-problems-explained-part-ii/

September 17, 2017

Hello,

I have a Legacy and when I release the trunk, I hear only a click (latch release) the trunk will not raise by itself from that position.

I have purchased New Subaru Trunk Torsion Bars for it and going to put them on, but I need to know the correct positioning of the contact between the Torsion Bar and the Swivel Lever it attaches to.

The the Bend in the Torsion Bar Correct (Like attached Image) or the other way?

On my car now the bend is in the same position.

The guy at Subaru said there is a Driver Side(L) and Passenger® does the one that is driver mean that the s part goes in the driver side or the part that presses on the lifting portion

I hope this makes sense

Thanks for any help you can give.

June 29, 2017

It must be missing some of its hardware. Kind of a general description, but sometimes the side screws are forgotten -- the ones you get to inside the front wheel wells. This site can probably assist better with more specific information.

Hey, I put all new hardware along with the new guard. Where it is starting to slowly sag is the driver side where there is less plastic. I was hoping someone in aftermarket make one for the 4th gen Legacy.

June 29, 2017

Hello,

I have a 06 Legacy with a engine splash shield that is only a couple of months old and it is already starting to sag on the Driver Side where there is less plastic material.

Has anyone ever found a way to brace it up or modify it so that it's not sagging like it's many years old when it is only 6 to 9 months?

Thanks for and constructive input.

June 25, 2017

What you should have done, instead of turning it off, was rev the engine to 4,000 rpm a few times rapidly when the gauge started to climb. The increased water pump pressure will push the air out.

Remember we do this like twice a day. Trust me. You don't need to elevate it but it won't hurt anything. Just rev the engine to clear the air pocket.

I have tried the airlift. The results are mixed and it's a pain in the butt compared to the funnel and a few whacks on the loud pedal.

GD

Thanks, I will try it tomorrow...

Should I still attach the Lisle Spill - Free Funnel when I do this?

June 25, 2017

Air

Burp it again and read here how others do it.

Nose up. Drive, top off, drive top off, drive....until the air is gone.

Thermostat failure is way less frequent than it's talked about. Pull it out and boil it to test.

Hey, I did the Boil Test on it a few day after getting it. I will put the Nose Up again to help move the air out.

June 25, 2017

Probably air in the system. Provided you used an OEM or OEM style thermostat (bunch of topics on here about thermostats)

I've had issues with bleeding air from the system on a bunch of subarus. Typical, in my experience, the heater core doesn't like to fill up, and because of that, coolant doesn't circulate properly and can sometimes even cause the thermostat not to open.

Do you know if the vents were blowing hot air? Because of they were, it might be the thermostat. But if they weren't blowing hot air, you have air in the heater core you need to get out.

Again, in my experience, a trick I learned from a guy on iATN is to get the heater core to fill all the way. Step on the gas pedal and get the RPMs to shoot up (not much over 3k though) and then let them settle, and continue to do that until the vents blow hot (obviously monitoring coolant temp and don't let it overheat)

I tend to have to do that on most subarus I open the cooling system on, even after using my airlift.

Good luck!

Also, do you have a scan tool you can monitor live data with? Most Subaru's I've worked on in the 08' area, fans turn on around 212 degrees F and shut off around 204 (the shut off depends a lot though, but the turn on is almost always right around 212 +/- 2 degrees)

Hey, I never thought about the Heater Core issue. I should have because the heater core probably site higher than the engine, and I even put on New Heater Core hoses.

I will try what you said in regards to increase the RPM..

Also what is: AIRLIFT?

June 25, 2017

Hello,

So, the engine is all back together.

For the initial start-up I did the Subaru Relearn after a long time without a battery. I didn't touch the accelerator pedal during initial start, and let it idle for at least 40 minutes.

During this time I had Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel attached to the Radiator Filler port, and the front end of the car was elevated and up on jack stand to help trapped air bubbles from the system for the first 30 minutes.

So, I was letting the car idle for a long time, when I noticed the Temperature Gauge was climbing up towards HOT area on the gauge. I did not let it get there though. FYI, both fans are running the way there are supposed to. The Anti-Freeze in Subaru brand for my year of car.

After I turned the car off for a few minutes the temp came back to normal (Gauge was like just below the 9 'o'clock position)

Is this a air bubble that is trapped or maybe a bad thermostat?

Thoughts?

This is what is NEW on the Engine Cooling Side: (All Subaru Parts)

Radiator

Water Pump

Thermostat & Thermostat Housing

Both Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses

June 23, 2017

Subaru hoses are always installed dry.

You can download a free Subaru FSM and see the installation procedure created by Subaru engineers there. They're all over the Internet - you should get one and review the work you're doing and many of your questions will be answered straight from Subaru.

I've seen one 2006 Outback EZ30 (6 cylinder) heater hose leak and that was in 2011 when it was very young.

Thanks

June 22, 2017

Hey, I noticed today when I was changing my factory heater hose out for new Subaru ones, that the factory put a small bead on the inlet to the heater core.

Has anyone ever had these leak? Is it necessary to do this? If so, what sealer would you use?

Thanks for your help or thoughts

Mike

June 22, 2017

Are you trying to measure the length of the belt?

Or the tension on the belt?

The Tension. I have the procedure from Subaru, but tightening the Tensioner Bolt on the Alternator & PS Pump to 8 nm is a lot. The Air Conditioning & Idle pulley require a tensioners. Many people just guess at it....

I was trying to find a good tensioner gauge

June 21, 2017

Any auto parts store will have a belt gauge, so they can measure yours and give you a replacement. If the numbers an the belt are still legible, one number will be the measurement, usually in millimeters.

Scott, I would rather do it myself. thanks for the reply.

June 21, 2017

Hey,

Does anyone know who make a good tool to measure the V-Belt? If so, do you have a number for it?

Thanks

June 21, 2017

You don't need one. Tighten it till it doesn't leak. It's just like an engine oil filter. Hand tight. With your hand. No tools.

Relax my friend. You don't need to torque every fastener.

GD

Hey, so why does Subaru say that it needs to be at 12 NM then? Must be a reason that the engineers give us that number... , thoughts?

June 20, 2017

Hey,

I'm trying to find the Torque Spec for the Subaru Trans Filter # 38325AA032

June 19, 2017

Turn the engine with a ratchet till it lines up with the window. Turn the torque converter through the starter hole.

GD

Thank you.... your awsome

June 19, 2017

Hello,

The engine is back in the car. BUT, I forgot to line up the converter holes with the holes on the flex plate to install the four bolts.

Any ideas would help.

Thanks

June 13, 2017

Experienced Subaru people can do an entire head job and use a torque wrench for the head bolts only.

I don't even use a torque wrench on crank pulley bolts, I get them as tight as my extension allows so I'm probably over 150. Waste of time to dig out my toque wrenches.

Iron crank and bolt, you're not going to strip it unless you try or have no idea.

It's not the stripping of the threads that I would worry about, it's the damage the damper keyway and keyway slot in the crank if the damper bolt comes loose...

June 13, 2017

The car has over 230K miles on it, no problem before they did the job. It was loose I think, I suspected something but did not know how to diagnose it. I paid to have it towed, it should be the shop's responsibility.

Was it taken to a Subaru Dealer? So many people/places claim they are Subaru Experts, but if fact they aren't.

Did the Balancer just come off? Or did is separate into pieces? Did it damage the Key Way and the Slot down by the Harmonic / Vibration Damper?

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