kennycoulter

well, pulling down on the weather stripping actually worked. I dislike doing any type of rigged repairs, but I may stuff some foam behind the seal flap to keep it pressed out. it seemed to do the trick for now. I was looking in the right place for the data card, but couldn't find my paint code on the Subaru site. It is just a pearl white with gold-ish lower portions. I added a bunch of new gaskets when I was throwing the new engine in, but I haven't found the source of my new leak yet...... it is trans fluid coming out, and I am worried that it is from the front seal, but might be from the steering lines or rack(?). Car is still doing pretty well. I crawled into the trunk yesterday but couldn't find the source of the leak. It seems like my homemade silicone gaskets worked for the spoiler, and the taillight seems dry. I am wondering if when it sits at a certain angle, if it leaks past the weatherstripping for the trunk itself, but I couldn't seem to recreate the situation. Looking to do the ball joints and probably shocks pretty soon. edited: deleted brake squeak comment.... adding in: I can't seem to find the ball joint BOLTS on the Subaru page. the bolts are shown in three different diagrams, but I can't click on them to add to cart.

I never made it in time to get it ordered from the dealer. I can't seem to find it online or from those sellers. My hood was replaced (has info for a 2.5 engine and is a different color white instead of pearl), or is the data plate on the firewall or similar area? Thank you for the suggestions.

I am still having some amount of leaking into the trunk. I made my own gaskets for the taillight area. I have not had time to recheck where the leak is coming from... My CEL has been out since I changed both O2 sensors. I have not been able to check the MPG yet (still switching between this and another car). I ordered the taillight housing gaskets ON THE BODY, but the dealership couldn't find the ones for the wing or the light panel that stays on the trunk... I was hoping that someone might have the number. As I am searching on Subaru websites, I can't zoom in far enough to see the numbers. I was hoping to order window weather strip also. I get A LOT of wind noise on the highway.... I wasn't sure what I was looking at on the parts site, but it looks lik ethe upper part is separate from the door weatherstrip. It looks like the upper and lower ARE the same for both sedans and wagons? Can anyone confirm that? The only other problem that I am having is a clunk sound from both front and back. I am assuming front ball joints, but the rear sounds like a bad shock. The front only clunks with a hard turn, or a continuous turn and the body finally leans a little extra. I replaced my radio since the cd player didn't work. I had to tear the old one apart to get the CD out...... my car WAS equipped with the onstar buttons, and seems to have some other control box above the heater control (inside the dash). Would anyone need these or be interested in them? I really like this car, and my son has finally warmed up to it! He used to fight me (toddler break down) when it was time to go in something different than my fusion or old truck. Edit: Also, where can a person get touch up paint? Are patch panels sold, to correct the door jamb issue before it gets worse?

The only code that came up was: 0031, and what looked like 0031 oo (?) infinity?

I guess I should have detailed that: while checking for fuel smells in the engine bay, the engine bay above the exhaust seemed way too hot for having driven such a short distance, after the car was sitting. I did not feel that into the cabin. I was checking the clamps on everything that I had touched. I had to tighten the clamp on the lower radiator hose a little. so far, no more leaks. I already ordered the fuel filler for the 99 wagon. I bet this is the same problem. I hope to scan it later and see if the code is the same. I checked the oil on as flat of a surface as I could, but it might have still been a slight nose down situation.

I drove it to work today (46 miles), after getting a new title, plates, registration, insurance (an additional 10-12 miles).......it did just fine, but the front wheel well area on the passenger side came loose and was rubbing the tire (is that where the trans fluid filter is?)... I didn't see it on the trans, and they claimed it was in the wheel well. car goes really well. for some reason, the oil seems to be reading high. the coolant is all good. I smell some gas ( I filled it up today, so I wonder if it also has a bad filler neck). Check engine light is on, but I wasn't able to scan it yet. Seems like a LOT of heat from the exhaust after just a few miles on the car today. Otherwise, this thing is super smooth, trans shifts sooooo much quicker and firmer than my 2013 fusion. Super comfy over all of the Ohio battlefield blasted highways.

I have never heard of anything like that.....weird. I bought some thinner wall tubing to replace the "plasticized" hoses that will be able to connect to the actual plastic tube that bolts to the intake. I will run it in the same route soon, but wanted it running to get it to the trans shop or to make sure the car would run. I always try to run my hoses and wires in the factory location, just for aesthetics....I hope the additional 1.5 feet going to the port on the passenger side from the brake booster doesn't affect brake performance

I am interested in something: the majority of us can rebuild a lot of things, but it always seems like a.c. is off limits. is there a source for rebuild kits for a.c. parts?

really weird sounding. maybe it was the pcv itself, sticking and releasing? I just have a generic hose going directly from the NEW pcv, running directly on top of the engine, into the vertical inlet on top of the intake. I was considering a air/oil separator. Both hoses were insanely brittle (high and low mileage). both dumped oil out.... I am not sure where there'd be room to mount the catch can in the engine bay, maybe hang it close to the fuel filter. I got a call from the trans shop today: my suspicion was confirmed, and all is good! @pontoontodd, I hope that I don't run into those issues. Earlier in this thread, I tried to link to the brand of gasket kit that I bought that was cheaper: it actually had Subaru gaskets in it. for some reason, it didn't have the rear main seal Usually when I rebuild an engine (minus machine work), I do ALL gaskets, ALL hoses, water pump, typical filters. with the fact that these are all seeming to overheat and warp, machine work WOULD be necessary, but some others hopefully chime in with more facts on having that done: supposedly crank and/or rod bearings and other things will be messed up.

I MADE A VIDEO......I do not know how to post them, but I am also trying to force myself to wait and relax, until I can definitely say that it is not the inspection plate for the torque convertor bolts.... I am an anxious dude....

I was going to do the high temp silicone because I have had anti-sieze burn away. I couldn't find the stainless in 10-1.25. I ordered standard steel but still high strength, from McMaster-Carr. I have the car together now, and running, with a few Band-Aid hoses attached for the pcv and brake booster... The newest issue is: I think that I bent my trans inspection plate on removal. It was difficult to get a socket on one of the bolts when transferring it over to the new engine. I thought it was straight enough, but when I tightened up the engine and trans, and ALL bolts, it seemed to contact the back of the flex plate. When I finally got the car started (after close to 2 months), I had a heck of a racket that sounded like a rod knock or slapping chain. It went with the revs, but then I remembered the inspection plate..... I took it to the transmission shop, to have them do the new filter/fluid/pan seal, and asked them to please pry that out a little while they have it lifted. I hate having others work on my stuff, but I am running out of time. I am 1.5 months into the warranty on that 64,xxx mile engine, and still don't know if it is any good.......so I am hoping they eliminate any other possible problem that there could be, and I could determine if the engine is good, and start driving. (I am still borrowing a vehicle off of someone, as my daily driver has been back and forth to the body shop for the past 2 months after getting hit by a frack truck.

My local places do not seem to carry any flanged nuts. I was considering slathering copper silicone on the studs. I figure that it will stay on better, but I will still be able to cut through it with the nut WHEN I have to take the exhaust off in the future...

I figured out the slow start up/fuel leak problem: seems like a rusted fuel filler neck. I figured out the "transmission" problem and shifting and/or lack of power.... Knock sensor. I finally got to change it yesterday, then drove the car over 100 miles. mpg and drivability changed dramatically! insane change.

Thank you both! I am still trying to finalize the super delayed engine install..... And as soon as that is done, I will be fixing the rear leak(s?). I am still hung up on: Finding new exhaust 3nuts (flange nuts), Stuck, and now broken......pipe plug at the back of the manifold, Need to install hose clamps on the trans lines to the radiator, I need to figure out a hose setup for the pcv>>> I am considering installing an oil/air separator, since both setups had become extremely brittle. I am having some trouble finding thinner wall 10mm i.d. tubing. Normally, for American v-8s (and my 1 former Porsche), I would fill the radiator and squeeze a hose to create suction to get coolant into the engine. I am not having any luck with that working on this engine. I still have the front end raised, and the radiator is filled before the engine became full (I have less than 2 gallons of mix installed) I can't imagine that the block, heater assembly, and radiator are all filled......... The radiator is filled to the top, meaning I would think that the two top hoses would fill. I will be taking a hose off, and try to fill into that next. If there is a different typical approach, I would appreciate any advice. Thank you, to everyone!

I am extremely delayed on my install, but so far, things are ok....... I had to swap the wiring over to the new engine. I had to swap the AC bracket, as apparently they are different. I have to swap a vacuum nipple and plug on the back of the intake. JDM to American has those parts swapped left/right. I did not do a check on the valve clearance with this engine, as it has 68,xxx miles. I don't think it would show anything. I am hoping to have the engine back into the vehicle Friday night or into Saturday (hopefully the snow melts off of my driveway) I am looking forward to having this back together, but as soon as I am done, I will be doing the tear down of the 1999 2.5 wagon (timing and maybe HG, checking for fuel leaks, ball joints,....etc.) The engine aside, the only other problem that I am seeing with this vehicle is: I open the trunk, and water seems to spill out from the passenger taillight directly into the trunk. otherwise, it doesn't leak. Is this a typical problem? Do the lenses separate? Possibly leaking around the spoiler mount? I will be tearing that off to check if there is a gasket or whatever anyway..... but if there is something else that is typical that I could apply my little amount of time that I have, I'd rather work on that. thanks for all of the advice so far.

Thanks everyone! It worked. I just have to get used to the format to be able to find what I need. I got the valve covers and spark plugs into the "new" engine.... I will also be doing a pcv, thermostat, front and rear crank seals, and it seems like I might need to take the intake off to get to the wiring. What is the best way to get the dampener off? is 44 in-lbs good enough for the valve covers?

I bought a Haynes manual for my 2003 Subaru, but it doesn't mention or cover the H6. When I go to do any amount of work, I won't have any torque specs. Is there a good, hopefully free source for these specs? at the current moment, I will need the process for: the rear and front main seals replacements. the valve cover gaskets. bell housing to engine bolts. starter bolts. flex plate to crank. flex plate to torque convertor, all other accessories on the front: a.c. mounts, p.s. mounts, idler, tensioner, spark plug, exhaust, Am I missing anything that will need attention for an H6 engine removal? Will a 1999 JEBA trans mate up to a 2003 H6? Would I be able to swap this extra engine into my 1999 after the 2.5 dies out?

I had good news despite the actual immobile cool vehicle blocking my truck in my driveway..... ​Back on Dec. 23rd, I ordered the Mahle HS54486 Head Gasket Kit. (even though it is now seeming like the rebuild might be a little much) ​I have never seen the certain symbol on any parts before......I changed out the hatch door handle on my mom's '99 wagon. Today, I see the same symbol. ​Apparently Mahle like some other kits, include Subaru gaskets in their kits. ​Right side: 511007701 plus the symbol is shown. Left side: 508008001 plus the symbol is shown. My only gripe would be that the valve cover gaskets seem sort of rigid to me, but I don't know if that is what the engine requires.

Well, you geniuses strike again. ​I had already ordered my Japanese spec lower mile engine a few days ago..... I thought that my battery had died in the cold.... been trying to start my "new" Subaru, and it won't turn over. ​I checked the oil in the the daylight (finally), and got to see the chocolate milkshake, in addition to the radiator level way down. ​Good thing that I had already ordered the other engine, but My truck is currently blocked in. I hope the swap goes smoothly.

I am trying to find the clips that hold the panel on. The previous owner took it half way apart to try to fix it. I have it so that I can open it, and bought new replacements for the red clips. Are the other clips re-useable? ...like the center pin would pull out or push in, to release the pin? ​I am hoping to have all of the new parts on and functioning soon, and would like to put the inside hatch panel back on. ​The parts stores can't look it up, and I haven't had luck finding them from Subaru parts sales online.

absolutely correct! Thank you, and sorry for the dumb question...

I did this, after someone shared the link with me. ​I removed the cluster on Sunday (45* F), all lights worked as normal. ​I was able to remove everything, solder, fix the trip odo (broken arm), reinstall, let everything sit to cool, finally install back into car yesterday: (Monday, 18*F). While working on the vehicle, everything went smooth. Of course, the only way to test if it is now working is to drive the vehicle..... ​I let the car warm up while scraping the ice off of the windows, and fnally got in to go around a few blocks and back home. ​I parked the car, extremely happy that I could fix the speedo for my mom's car...... The marker lights wouldn't shut off. I am still new to the car, so I didn't know if it was a sort of warning sign that something else was left on. I kept flipping on, then off, all buttons on the dash, for seat heaters, cruise, foglights, messed more with the headlight and turn signal and wiper arm switches..... ​IF I did something wrong, I would think that as soon as it was hooked up, It would have given me this problem. I was in the car for 15-20 minutes before starting the car. No lights were on until I started the car.....This includes the dome light..... ​One thing that I noticed, The wipers were left on from the last drive. They were frozen in place while I was trying to bust them free. Could this have melted something else, causing the lights stay on? ​Would the dash cluster being out, really break the connection so that the dome light wouldn't have functioned if the door opens? ​What else should I be looking towards to get the marker lights to turn off? ​Is this a separate but also common issue with these cars? ​1999 Subaru outback limited wagon, 2.5/auto. ​Thanks for the write-up for the fix, and thanks for any possible suggestions on my new issue.

I found a bunch of the "JDM" suppliers on Ebay. I am a little confused as to why they exist. Why are these 60,xxx mile engines relatively cheap? What would be different about the Japanese engine? Separate topic: HOW do the later 3.0's go? Easy swap? Is the vario-cam hydraulic or electric? I would assume computer and injectors would be different for the added horseypower... Sorry guys(or girls), I am new to Foreign cars (other than my longest ownership of a car being a single German unit). I have the ability and background to repair/install/build anything, but this is a new genre for me. I tried to upload a picture or 2 of my previous engine builds (motorcycles and ford engines) but the links were messing up.

How do we feel about ARP head studs for STI's? I just don't think a head gasket should fail so soon..... When I bought my Fusion 3 years ago, I was actually looking at Subarus for 2 years, and scared away due to the HG problems. I saw that Perrin H6 build had STI ARP studs in place, with "shims" under the nuts and/or washers. I have access to hardened/machined/accurate stuff like those "shims". Does an H6 have 16 head bolts? I considered a different engine purchase, ready it with all necessary gaskets/timing...detail it a little.... then do a swap in a couple days with less down time. BUT from reading this site, it seems that the unknown history of the engines and the tendency to warp the head surface had scared me away from doing that.

I assume that I should replace the timing at the same time? I have already ordered the gasket set for my 1999 2.5, but hoped that I could install that one in the car (SEEMS like there is enough room). I ordered most of the gaskets so far. I am not sure if the front seals are included....everything looked head related.