AKLegacyGL

So i picked up another legacy for $100 and the gentlman i got it from said the rear left cv axle is broke, i thought it waz stripped out hub. I started the car and slowly let the clutch out and i heard this rumblimg spinning noise and i ask my brother to sit in the drivers sest and slowly let the clutch out and when i looked under the car i noticed the rear drive line just spinning away. The car acts like it wants to take off but from my understanding the torque split has to have resistance or something i know that legacys have a FWD fuse holder to dissable the clutch blpack to just make it front wheel drive but its missing and with further investigating and taking off the rear pumpkin cover and noticed the center spider gears disintegrated. ( looks like someone put a grenade in the rear diff and put the cover back on). Before i go on let me give some details about rhe car. Its a 91 legacy 2.2 with a 5 speed. It runs flawlessly with no ticks, knocks sputtering not nothin. Probably the best running 2.2 ive had. My parts car is a 91 Subaru Legacy 2.2 but it has an automatic trans instead of a 5 speed like the one im tryna get road worthy. They both say 4.11 on the pumkin cover buf ive heard they might have the same final drive ratio but 1 threw 4 are different but i dont know for sure hopefully someone can school me and knows. I also have a 96 Subaru Outback Sport 2.2 that's a manual but am unsure of the gearing because there's no sticker that I can see on it besides some numbers underneath side of the diff. 314- top 67- middle KN41- bottom Then it either says 6:1 or 9:1 im unsure. any insight or suggestions on what to do which rear end to use and how to fix it be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a good day

Instead of changing out just the axles can i take the whole hub and half shaft assembly where it bolts on to the unibody and rear strut from an ea82 and swap it over to a brat? If that were to work id probably have to swap both sides. But is that a possibly?

Good early morning fellow Subaru enthusiast I have a quick question I got a 1984 Subaru Brat runs great and that I have driven before but somebody took the driver side rear half shaft and CV axle assembly out because the bearing disintegrated and was pretty much useless and I'm wondering that if my 85 Subaru GL half shaft assembly will fit on an 84 brat and also how much of the parts are Universal going from car to car

I'm still stuck on what do do if anyone has any ideas?

I checked it and it's good. I pulled the fuse with the car running and the engine shut off so I know the fuse is good. And it's labeled (meter and engine).

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this problem of mine because it would be nice if I could see my instrument gauges working. I have a 92 Subaru Loyale Sedan non turbo Auto trans and My speedometer and tachometer work just fine. But, as for my oil pressure, motor temp, volt meter and gas guage they don't even move a little bit. I've pulled the dash out and checked all the connections and everything is fine so I don't know what else it could frickin be. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

The IAC could be a start. When it starts it idles fine for a few seconds then jumps to 3000-4000 RPM. I tried quickly tapping the gas pedal and it doesn't help. I'll check the cts sensor in a little bit. I've spent a full day putting it all back together so it's break time.

Whats up fellow Subaru lovers, So I finally got my 92 Loyale EA-82 Auto trans 4wd to start but only up until I put it into gear. When I start the car the idol is really high and I will try and put it in gear and it goes for a second hiccups stutters and then dies and burns up the black fuseable link underneath the hood. I checked the ECU to see if it was pushing and codes and sure enough its throwing codes 11-crank angle sensor or circuit, 12-starter switch or circuit, and 61-parking switch or circuit. What do these codes mean and how do I go about fixing them. Could this be the reason why it won't idle right and dies once put into gear.

Please twll me there is some truth in this. So buddy of mine introduced me to a guy who knows everything and anything about Subarus as far as the older loyals and gl's go and he said that it sounds like I'm doing the timing right but there were two different models of distributors that were used in the GL and loyals and that I could have put the wrong one in since the car didn't come with the distributor and I had to take one off of a wagon and put it in the sedan could that be possible and if so what are the names of the distributor models going crazy without a car so someone please say this is true and a possibility

Please twll me there is some truth in this. So buddy of mine introduced me to a guy who knows everything and anything about Subarus as far as the older loyals and gl's go and he said that it sounds like I'm doing the timing right but there were two different models of distributors that were used in the GL and loyals and that I could have put the wrong one in since the car didn't come with the distributor and I had to take one off of a wagon and put it in the sedan could that be possible and if so what are the names of the distributor models going crazy without a car so someone please say this is true and a possibility

So here it is guys hopefully someone can help cuz I'm out of ideas. I bought 3 Subaru Loyale's (1 wagon with locked motor and good 5 speed and 2 sedans good motor and trans in one and no motor and good trans in the other ) im tryna get the one with good motor and trans running. I've seen and heard it run a year ago. Ive taken the belts off and redone it 6 times now. It just doesn't sound right. Every time I've gone threw the timing process I've followed it step by step by watching the miles fox video on you tube. After I've put the belts on put the a/c pump and alternator and v belts on and try and start it. When cranking over it makes a chug sound and backfires every rotation. I know I'm either an idiot and forgetting super stupid or their actually might be something else broken. I've replaced timing belts on At least 15 to 20 mid to late 80's GL's and early 90's Loyales so i dont know why the hell its giving me so many problems. Can someone please give me step by step instructions on Timing belt procedure Ignition timing and. When to drop the disty. Pleased help me. My patience is running thin and don't know what else to do...

By cleaning out the lines, that can be done by taking an air hose and blowing them out correct? The trans pan is dented a little bit, so I think I'll replace that. I've never seen an AT light on or blink. But their is a check engine light that flashes. What's is this TSB part you mentioned? Are tranny filters expensive? When draining the trans how much fluid should I buy and would you recommend using something like Lucas stop slip, or Barr's Transmission repair. Also I noticed that the manual light on the dash doesn't work along with the button itself. Could this be a contributing factor. Lastly, after all that is checked off if it could be a solenoid or sensor... Which ones could be the cause and how would I check them to be working?

So I recently pulled a blown ej22 out of my 90 legacy and. Left the original trans in it. I replaced it with another ej22 from a parts car I got for free and the motor from the parts car has 49,000 original miles. Motor runs like a raped ape . The tranny was acting funny before the motor blew but thought I'd put the new motor in and go from their cuz I'm not thinking it's blown but could be a solenoid or sensor etc... So when I start to drive the shift from 1st to 2nd is kinda hard nothing to out of the ordinary. Then the shift from 2nd to 3rd is smooth but almost feels like it kicks back to 2nd. It will only shift into higher gears when at higher speeds. Reverse takes a second and a review of the motor to fully engage. And recently if I downshift manually it isn't being slowed down by the motor but acts like it's in nuetral. Also sometimes i only have 1st and reverse and won't shift out of 1st. I'm really hoping it's something simple but I'm not holding my breath. The fluid looks fine a little dark but not bad, doesn't smell burnt.

Wow thank you all for the fast responses. It does have a fuse holder under the hood and if I’m correct it is only for, like Bushwick said for towing and emergencies like If you were to blow a tire and you have a donut that is a little bit off in size and putting a fuse in the slot disables the clutch pack in the transfer case so it won’t ruin the all-wheel-drive system. From my research “correct me if I’m wrong” the Torque split is 50/50 GeneralDisorder- I have not tried that yet I’ll be home in 30 min or so and I will try that.