riverguy

I see so many different opinions on how to change a clutch on '80-'84 Subies, but almost all involve pulling either the engine or the transaxle. OK, it's been like what, 30 years since I last did one (I used to have a shop that did nothing but those years of Subies, mostly 4x4's), but we figured out a way to do the job in a few hours without pulling either the engine or transaxle. Memory here might not have all the details, but here are the basics: Pull the radiator and condenser, if applicable. Disconnect all cables, wires, hoses etc. from the engine. Remove the A/C condenser and lay it over onto wherever it will reach out of the way. Same with P/S pump, as I recall. Connect the engine to a hoist, disconnect the engine mounts and lift the engine just clear of them. Pull the exhaust manifold bolts and the bolts connecting the engine to the bell housing, and then gently rock and pull forward until the two separate. Now you can gently pull the engine forward and as I recall to one side with the clutch end facing the passenger side. As you pull it forward, you'll find the few remaining things you didn't disconnect. Once in there a bit sideways, you'll have unobstructed access to remove the pressure plate, etc. I'm no doubt a bit fuzzy on some of the details, but it'll all become clear as you work through the project. We told our local Subaru dealer about this process and he didn't believe it could be done until we demonstrated it for him. They did them all like that from then on, no doubt passing the flat-rate saving onto their customers. I mean, dealers do that sort of thing all the time, right? I hope this help some of your folks lucky enough to have on of these terrific cars. I would so love to have another '84 GL 4X4 wagon in mint condition! BTW, this can also be done without an engine hoist. We've done a few with a come-a-long hoist hanging from an A-frame beam. You just roll the car back slightly instead of moving the hoist forward. Also, this may very well work on many other years of Subies, I just know it works on these for sure.

Well folks, thanks for all the info! It helped me sort things out. My focus is now on an Outback, 2001-2 on up to maybe 2009. Condition, service records and mileage are more important than year. There seems to be no shortage of them here in CA or OR, and I'm leaning toward buying one in Oregon so I won't have to register it here in expensive CA for the few months we're still going to be here. If I can find one from eastern OR, that would be ideal, since most of the accumulated miles there are highway, and nothing rusts there. Merry Christmas to all!

I'm in CA and moving to OR in April. There's a great selection in OR, prices are lower to start with and there is no sales tax. CA is 9.85%. Registration is also cheaper in OR. OR does not use salt on the roads, and if the car is from inland and not the coast, rust is less of an issue. Cars from eastern OR are great because the whole eastern half of OR is high mountain desert. No rust! Also, every place is so far from every other place that accumulated miles are all easy highway. I was a dealer in OR for years and did most of my buying there. A relevant question: Does anyone know if the emissions systems on CA cars are any different from cars delivered in the other states? That could be another reason for buying a OR car!

You listed the EJ25 and not the EJ20. Any particular reason for that? Is the EJ25 reputed to be more reliable? I kinda thought the EJ20 was the bulletproof one. Wrong on that?

I've been finding quite a few 2000 - 2009 Outbacks in super condition with the head-gasket and timing services already done. I'm thinking that any of these that are actually in well-maintained condition with service verification records would be a safe bet? Most have 120 - 150K miles on them, though, so there's still drive-train issues just from all the miles. Are there any particular drive train problems with these cars? I had a 2001 for a while a few years ago and the front differential ate a bearing. Two techs told me that this was a common problem with those years. Any info on that? Maybe just common when you don't change the oil on schedule?

Actually, I'm an old-car nut and I would be in heaven if I could find an '84 GL 4X4 wagon, all restored like new. I LOVED those cars and I always felt that the '84 was the last of the classic Subies. I used to enjoy pulling these 4X4 macho pickups out of our local ditches with my Subarus. Those things would climb trees! But then, My Lovely Bride doesn't share my thing with old cars, and this is gonna be our "family" car, so it needs to not look "embarrassingly old." I really like the 2008-9 era Outbacks, and maybe I'll just find one of those and do the head gaskets and timing service on it. Is the 2.5 the engine with the chronic head-gasket problem? Shame on Subaru for continuing to sell known defect!

I had several Subarus in throughout the '80s and loved them dearly. They got me places in our deep snow that took out every other 4x4. I'm moving back there in a few months and would love to get back into Subarus, but I hear so many stories about head-gasket failures, front differential failures, etc. So my question is this: for a top budget of $10K (including sorting the car I buy), what should I be looking for that has the least issues? I hear about some of these failures that have gone on for many model years. I'd love an Outback, would settle for a Forester. Oh yeah, no turbos and I need an automatic. Also, most cars in my price range have at least 100K miles on them. Is that pushing the shelf-life for most Subarus? Any help would be appreciated!