bucket

that switch is for the heated windsheild. warms a strip at the bottom of the glass where the wipers park. doesn't really help much on my 99 OB limited.

FWIW, Por-15 likes to be applied directly to a rusty surface (remove loose scales though). if you blast you need to use por's metal ready before applying.

my 99 with 80k does it occasionally too. just started noticing it this winter. ac position does not seem to matter. coolant changed 2 years ago.

you have probably already left... it can be a 30th without badges. my window sticker listed it as a 30th limited but since it was built in 99 it is sans badges. i think they only put badges on the cars actually built in 98. anyway i love mine. black, leather, heated everything. mine is a 5 speed though.

i hear you on the ethanol. my old volvos ran like crap on that stuff when i lived in Denver. i would use an additive occasionally to help.

nobody??

has anyone used this adapter successfully in their panasonic equiped subie? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009PU93Y/104-5630944-1585554?v=glance&n=172282&v=glance

i have the factory sub in my 99 limited. no real difference in volume but definitely adds base. can't comment on comparison with aftermarket. i have a later 6 disc changer from an 03 or 04 subie. plugged right in.

dealer demo sounds like jack miller in olathe.

FWIW...i have a april 99 limited w/ a manual tranny. except for the clutch (which had to be replaced under warranty) i love the car.

i just replaced the head unit in my 99 ob limited with an 04 6 disc changer i bought on ebay. it has weatherband. sub must have reintroduced for 04. i wanted a in-dash changer sooner but i, like you, like the weather feature. fyi....i had to give up the tape deck feature.

you are correct, it's olathe. Jack Miller. They have one in North Kansas City as well. I have had pretty good luck with the NKC location....routine stuff while under warranty. Now that i'm passed 60k, need to look at alternatives.

Anyone have a recomendation for a subie expert in Kansas City? The dealer, having no competition, charges on the very high side.

is something wrong or is it normal for the factory trailer harness to have 12 volt output independent of the light switch or ignition? The brown lead is has a constant 12 volts to it even with the lights off and ignition off. Hence my trailer lights stay on when parked unless i disconnect the harness.