ckappler

Thanks to all who replied. It is looking more and more like the computer is the cause of the no-start. I have not even looked into what those things cost but maybe I will do a search to see if it is worth it.

So, aside from the fact that the heat could have cooked something so the car does not start, my other question is: what would have failed to cause the heat blowing out plenty of hot air at 75mph to instantly changing to COLD air and the needle shooting towards the red as soon as I slowed to exit from the highway?

Yes. Everything looks fine in the engine bay. I hope it is not a big deal. Just tried to fire her up again with no luck. Having it towed. I am bafled.

It cranks over no problem. It just wont start.

I see no evidence of collant loss. It never steamed smoked or anything. Almost like the stupid owner just didn't realize that it was empty. Am I stupid for thinking maybe it will just start up if I let it sit? I remember once that was the case when I left the radiator cap off.

Driving my 88 DL to work about 20 miles on the highway. Got off at my exit and all of a sudden, my heat turns cold and my temp goes into the red. I drove about a mile till I could safely turn into a parking lot. As I went to turn, the car stalled. I waited for it to cool and then checked and to my surprise the radiator was almost empty and it felt as if the t-stat was closed. I topped off the rad, waited and now the car wont start. It never overheated though. Please let me know what you think!

come to think of it, no. I did not hear the normal gurgle. I am still hoping it has something to do with the ridiculously cold temp outside. How does the air just develope if it was working fine only 8 hours prior?

So this morning it was 6 degrees outside so I figured I would give my 88 DL more time to warm up. I went to get in the car some 20 minutes later and found to my surprise the heat was still blowing out cold air! I looked at the temp gauge and it was higher then normal. I hit the gas to drop the choke off and the temp came right down to normal. I checked hoses and all looked good so I drove the car about 25 miles. The car ran at normal operating temp but heat never got warm. It was working just last night. Could something have frozen? Any thoughts? My toes will thank you. IT IS COLD!!!

So, the handcuffs are off but I need to have a new cv axl put in. At least that is were I would like to start. The guys at napa are behind me but as I bring the car to the new GOOD mechanic, what I need to know is exactly the specs on the axle I need. Spline count, size etc. Can someone please help? Or, if you have one for a 88 DL wagon sell it to me? I need to get this done asap. Otherwise I may hurt him, again. Kidding but he actually said to me with (accent inserted here) "is this car special for you or something? You say motor is good, I say maybe not so good." He has never even opened the hood! It has 129K on it and you can eat of the engine! Everything has been done and it runs great. Please help so I can sovle the "new" axle he put in up his....anyway....I need to do this! Prior post - Ok. Picked up the car and I thought he was saying a little click when turning. NOT the case. Now as soon as you put it in gear and drive it clicks like something is hitting or something. I have to give him the benefit of the doubt as, we all know that when you take something apart is when other things start happening. It just seams strange. He said there is a problem with the diferential. It drives fine but just does not sound right. It clicks like mad even driving straight and just seems like it must be something! It also is making the same sound as before when turning. I have not clue. Let me know what you think. POST - wrong or bad axle?!?! where did he get the axle from?

So.....Is it dangerous?

I thought the same thing. I asked him about it and he said he counted the slines just the way I told him etc. Question is, would that cause damage since I have been driving it like that?

Correct. It only makes the noise when it is in gear and you are stepping on the gas. And it sounds just like a bad cv joint. Click click click click click! I looked and it looks like he put in a brand new axle.

True. The mechanic does not make any money off me and therefore does not want to be bothered. The car drives fine but it is pretty embarrasing as it sounds like the CV joint is shot even though it is driving straign and has just been replaced. I just want to figure it out so I can go back and punch him in the eye!

Anyone have suggestions for finding a Sub shop in Westchester County NY? A couple of us were wondering and no one has been able to figure out my problem so I guess I have to bring it in! '88 Dl wagon So I had my mechanic do the front passenger cv axle because I had no time. It definately needed to be done but now my mechanic is telling me that the clicking noise is actually the transfer case or more so the differential in the front. I have yet to check it out but I was wondering if anyone has any comments/thoughts/advice. As I said, I do not know what he is talking about yet but I want to know if it is safe to drive or if it need to be fixed what I am looking at. I know the 4wd works fine so I am not sure what the deal is. Any thoughts are greatly appriciated. -Chris

I always thought that a cv would only make that noise while turning!?? Not while going straight. Is that not the case?

Well I brought the car back in this morning and asked him to repack and put the old axle back in and see if this eliminates the problem. If so I will be watching the shop get smaller and smaller in my new passenger side mirror! (thanks Jeff) Anyway, I hope it is the last time I have to deal with them and I hope he did not screw anything up big time!

Not a clue. Not sure what to do but I am bringing it back tomorrow and telling him to fix it!

I had to tell him what axle to get based on what people told me here. Made him count the splines and all!

But what would do that?

Nope. It started after the axle was replaced.

Ok. Picked up the car and I thought he was saying a little click when turning. NOT the case. Now as soon as you put it in gear and drive it clicks like something is hitting or something. I have to give him the benefit of the doubt as, we all know that when you take something apart is when other things start happening. It just seams strange. He said there is a problem with the diferential. It drives fine but just does not sound right. It clicks like mad even driving straight and just seems like it must be something! It also is making the same sound as before when turning. I have not clue. Let me know what you think.

'88 Dl wagon So I had my mechanic do the front passenger cv axle because I had no time. It definately needed to be done but now my mechanic is telling me that the clicking noise is actually the transfer case or more so the differential in the front. I have yet to check it out but I was wondering if anyone has any comments/thoughts/advice. As I said, I do not know what he is talking about yet but I want to know if it is safe to drive or if it need to be fixed what I am looking at. I know the 4wd works fine so I am not sure what the deal is. Any thoughts are greatly appriciated. -Chris

88 DL wagon. 1.8l FI 4wd. What is the correct axle for cv joint fix? I do not have time to do it myself and OF COURSE...the shop can not figure out the right one to order. ANY HELP out there? I have seen it posted before as far as counting the spindles but I can;t find it now. What do I tell him? If I say 1990 loyale will that work?

I know this is out there but I could not find it and the link on the repair manual page is dead. 88 soob DL - How often do I need to do the timing belt?

I had the same thing. I drove it like that for a while waiting for the y to come in. I went from about 20 mpgs to 29 mpg once I installed it. Plus the POWER! It was like driving a race car once I put it in! Once I put it in, it must have done 0 to 60 in like 3.2 ...minutes!